View Full Version : Alignment

06-15-2010, 01:45 PM
Work with a guy that races a metric car in dirt figure 8.... anybody have a starting point for caster and camber and toe? Sorry if this has been discussed before I don't get in the streetstock section very often.

06-15-2010, 04:17 PM
camber lf -1.5 rf +3 caster lf +3 rf +4 toe 3/4" this is a basic starting point from the steve smith setup book. hope this helps

06-16-2010, 09:06 AM
Sorry but I think you missed the figure 8 part.... any help appreciated.

06-16-2010, 11:46 AM
That was what I was thinking

Hillbilly Deluxe
06-16-2010, 11:04 PM
A figure 8 car would probably work best with a straight up set up such as what came from the factory.

You could add steering feel by moving the wheels forward + Caster and moving the toe out about 1/4 of a inch, which would take up the slop in the steering components.

I would advise the use of spindle savers at the very least and would also advise welding pieces of flat stock, cut to conform to the shape of the arm that goes off the center of the spindle to the tie rod end.

I would also advise welding a small bushing to the outside of the spindle about 1 1/2 inches back from the end of the tie rod end hole and using a Heim End and a spacer to get the tie rod ends aligned straight with the center link.

That will also require you to turn the center link around and mount it backwards because there will not be enough space between the center link and the engine cradle for the inner tie rod end. I would also make sure that the engine cradle has enough arch and that you strengthen the frame rails and horns before you start racing. The frame has a tenancy to bend right behind the front wheels where the frame curves back to the center frame rails.

You might also want to invest in a better set of brake rotors and over sized brake calipers which are offered in the US Brake Catalog. The rotors, although heavier, are also lighter then stock. The calipers features a larger then stock size piston and gives a greater amount of clamping force.

I would also suggest that you use some sort of brake bias and also a set of brake bias gauges. Nailing the set up will be kind of hard at first. But the other goal is after a crash, trying to get everything back to where it was at before the crash.

I would try to get the engine to sit as low as possible in the cradle and I would try to use a mid plate if the rules allowed it.

If it was not against the rules, I would look into cutting off the front frame horns and using a replaceable type set up that could be bolted and unbolted vs stock. Put a big front bumper on her and go race!