View Full Version : LR Brake floater caliper location?
07-11-2010, 01:45 AM
Was wondering if the location of the brake caliper on the brake floater bracket made a difrence on how it works? I have a LR brake floater and it has the caliper mounted at 3 o'clock I have sean some mounted at 6 O'clock
I think they were on Taylor Shaw cars. I was looking for opinions if the caliper
was mounted in a certain position on the floater bracket if it made a difrence on how the brake floater worked?
07-11-2010, 09:17 AM
The caliper location does not matter. Just be sure when the car is up on the bars, the brake floater does not go over center.
07-12-2010, 01:29 AM
im fairly new to mods and got a 07 shaw by taylor. can you tell me any specs on how long the floater bar should be and why i need many holes for moving the rod up and down on the chassis do and were it should be.
07-16-2010, 06:31 PM
The front mounts(chassis) on my cars are the same as the left upper bar mounts. The floater needs to be adjustable. The angle is what loads the LR and RF. The more angle, the more loading. The more loading helps with trail braking and can tighten entry.
07-18-2010, 10:03 PM
so your saying bringing the bar down on the chassis and taking angle out of it will slightley loosen entry on brake. am i correct?
07-20-2010, 12:05 AM
Dibble31, I think the Taylor Shaw cars use a 18 inch floater bar center of heim to center of heim. The brake bar length may vary on difrent year chassis ? Less brake bar angle seems to loosen entry .
07-20-2010, 01:45 AM
thanks for the help!
07-20-2010, 11:01 PM
The way you use the brake on entry dictates if the car will be loose or tight. I would recomend around 26 degrees and an 18 1/2" bar on a Shaw. The more angle the more effect and faster effect. Trail brake the car and it will be tight in. Trail brake it until it needs to pivot, then jab the brake will make the car pin the RF and should make the car pivot immediately if the car is setup close. If you take angle out of it the car will lose the ability to pin the RF and it will be tight no matter what you do.
07-21-2010, 02:39 PM
well ours was 17in and on the top hole and the car wouldnt turn no matter what the driver tried. we tried everything to get it to turn. you think making it 18in could help it on entry?
07-21-2010, 10:52 PM
I would recomend lengthening the brake bar to atleast 18". The length probably wont change your tight problem but should prevent it from camming over.
Do you have Jeffs set up sheets they should have the bar lengths he recomends? It sounds like your right side bars are to short. I would lengthen them 2 rounds each and try it. This should help loosen the car up.
07-21-2010, 11:32 PM
Yeah that would definatelly work to free it up. I was just tryin to say DON'T take angle out of the brake floater to free up the car. I would also say the car is probably setup to tight and its not from the brake floater. I would also say I run about 2 rounds off being completely to the rear on the brake bias.
07-22-2010, 01:09 PM
i got jeffs sheet and everthing is setup just the way he wrote it. all 4 bars are setup exactly how long he wanted them but it has nothing about a floater bar so i thought id ask. the car will not rotate what so ever. and on a tacky track the rs frame rail plows the track in the corners. car has 17lbs of bite.
wheel offsets are. front 2 2
rear 3 3
shocks are qa1 and valved off jeffs setup sheets.
07-22-2010, 01:41 PM
Don't have a Taylor, but have you tried less rear percent on tacky? A spacer or 2in offset on rr will help tight in.
Try running the brake floater level at ride ht. IMO a brake floater works well if someone trail brakes well but the opposite when someone doesn't. At least for us it was that way, running it level now and consistent on entry.
If you still having the rf dig into track after leveling brake floater, sounds like you need a heavier spring. Have you tried shorting the lr drop to help? How much angle in rr bars? Good luck.
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