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View Full Version : honda rod set up for 2.3



leeboy01
12-08-2010, 08:54 PM
Is it worth the money or is it a waste of time

soonersublime
12-08-2010, 09:45 PM
Not with a stock crank no. Maybe a forged or billet crank but then your really getting into some money there. I would say if your already askin if it's worth the money then it's more than you want to spend.

dirtdemon#4
12-09-2010, 10:56 AM
just go with a set of ford escort rods if you want a light rod engine.also these can work very well if you use the 2.3 stock crank or if you want a lighter crank also use a 1.9l escort crank.also you MUST use arp rod bolts these little engines built like this is worlds worst to brake a rod bolt.and arp is just alott better bolt

84Dave
12-09-2010, 03:10 PM
LeeBoy...... you do not indicate the degree of proposed modification of your 2.3 engine. But let's assume it'll be a full-tilt boogie race engine with a stout crank and close to 8800 rpm at the top end. A 1.999" diameter rod-journal on the crank would allow the use of a good, small-journal Chev V-8 rod, ordered with the proper big-end width, and would 'live' (bearing speed considerations) @ the above rpm & a bit beyond. But the big mistake many of us have made, & many today still make? Whether a cap-screw rod-bolt or thru-bolt with a nut, do NOT use a torque value to tighten/clamp the rod. Use the recommended bolt-stretch value & note the torque value to get that stretch value. Spend $55 and purchase a decent rod-bolt stretch-gauge from JEG's catalog. ARP will tell you, if you use their cap-screw/bolt, to clamp the rod up in your bench vice & 'cycle' their rod bolts @ least (3) times in order to 'burnish' the threads well for an accurate/proper stretch/torque value. For myself, I don't give a rip what the manufacturer recommends for lubrication on the cap-screw/thru-bolt. I always use the ARP moly, in the small packets, to lubricate the threads and the underside of the nut/cap-screw head. Then, with the rod(s) in my bench vice, I 'sneak up' on the final stretch value by torque cycling the fasteners 3-5 times up to that stretch value. With the torque value noted for desired stretch. Then when the rods are installed in the engine, a stretch-gauge is not needed. Simply torque the rods to the value noted for proper stretch from the bench-vice cycling operation. And Crower(I use their Maxi-Lite rods), in no uncertain terms, advised me to NEVER bounce back & forth between rod fasteners. Stretch/torque the bolt in one single, smooth movement! Then go to the other fastener. PLUS...... do NOT use a 'clicker' torque-wrench on rod fasteners. My favorite? A Sears/Roebuck 75# BEAM torque wrench. I have (2) of them hanging on the wall. I had both brand new wrenches calibrated on one of the digital calibration machines, and both were within 1#-2# of torque on the beam indicator. Since doing all the above, I've not hurt/broken a rod/bolt in a race engine! -Dave-

leeboy01
12-09-2010, 07:57 PM
well i'm going to be running 3/8 mile dirt oval wanting turn between 8500-9000 rpm,
also has any body ever heard of taking a 2.5 crank and running it with honda rods and making 2650cc is it a reliable set or should i go with a 2.3 crank with honda rods?

soonersublime
12-09-2010, 08:21 PM
If you want to turn that many RPM's your probably better off w/ a 2.3 stroke crank rather than a 2.5

You can take a 2.5 to 8500 but I wouldn't recommend any more than that.

If you are wanting to build a nice 9000-9500 RPM motor then a good combo IMO

Forged 2.3 crank - Raceeng
Custom Billet 5.7 Rods Crower - Raceeng
Custom CP ultra-light pistons - Raceeng
Fully ported BoPort ARCA head
Custom exhaust
Schneider Custom Cam and valve train.

This combo can produce 300 HP easy.

Strap the sucker and get a dang good oiling system.

car62
12-10-2010, 09:59 PM
the big question is...is your cam going to make any power at those rpm's?

car62
12-10-2010, 10:00 PM
personally id only run a dry sump at those rpms

rocket22
12-11-2010, 08:15 PM
what has to be done to run this setup and does it make good power

just go with a set of ford escort rods if you want a light rod engine.also these can work very well if you use the 2.3 stock crank or if you want a lighter crank also use a 1.9l escort crank.also you MUST use arp rod bolts these little engines built like this is worlds worst to brake a rod bolt.and arp is just alott better bolt

soonersublime
12-11-2010, 09:39 PM
the big question is...is your cam going to make any power at those rpm's?

You can make power easily at this RPM you just have to have a custom cam. You would run something very similar to what the guys run w/ midgets. Def wouldn't run this RPM w/ a wet sump system but if you had to a custom 9 quart pan would probably work.

grydergeyer26
01-10-2011, 02:13 AM
what do u have to do to the 2.3 bolck or to the 1.9 crank and rods? doesnt that destroke the engine?
so does running that setup let u run higher rpms? or just rev faster?

oklaministock
01-10-2011, 10:48 AM
We have had good luck with johnson machine 5.9 rod motor with there oil pan turn it 8900rpm won many features with this bottom end with a well built head.