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14flower
12-27-2010, 07:33 PM
having a problem with my fly bolts coming lose. stock ranger bolts with 10,000 rpm set up. what could be the problem has anyone had this problem befor?

also ive broke a set they did lose up as far as i know was just runing the car one night leading the race a it felt like the car lost power come to find out the flywheel had broke free. but that was with a stock flywheel.

boportt
12-27-2010, 08:13 PM
they is bottomin out or u aint torqin them rite or u is doin sumthin rong

millerlt3
12-28-2010, 12:27 AM
I use the ARP bolts and blue locktite

soonersublime
12-28-2010, 09:08 AM
As long as you know for a fact you're not bottoming out then get a fresh set of bolts, run a tap through the crank and then clean out the holes very very well. Then put a nice line of blue loctite on the NEW bolts and run them in. Torque each one to 50 ftlbs. Then torque them again to 56 ftlbs. This is for a steel flywheel. If running a different setup then let us know.

TOTALAWSUM7
12-29-2010, 10:45 AM
Remembering from years ago (1990's)....If it is an aluminum 10,000... (the salesman lied - said would work with stock setup)...had to run short flywheel bolts from Ford...and couldn't run a clutch with sprung center.

Foghorn
12-29-2010, 02:44 PM
Do Not use a tap to clean the holes. A tap will remove material (metal) from the crank making the bolts looser in the hole than before. Clean the threads with a good quality "thread chaser" and then wash out with a little brake clean, then blow dry. Use proper flywheel bolts from Ford or ARP and take the time to do some measuring to determine the correct length needed. Wash the new bolts to get them clean and then use a little lock-tite or you could take the time and drill the heads and use proper lock wire if you know how to lockwire something correctly. Proper bolts the correct length and you won't have trouble again.

14flower
12-29-2010, 02:59 PM
thanks for the help. do u guys think it could be something to do with the trans? like a bad pocket bearing or somethin like that

car62
12-29-2010, 07:19 PM
funny...been using a tap for years without any issues.

Foghorn
12-29-2010, 08:01 PM
Car62. Now you know you've been doing it wrong all these years. Funny. Buy yourself some good thread chasers and start doing it right. That is what they are made for. Taps are made for threading holes, not cleaning them.

that dude
12-29-2010, 08:14 PM
Remembering from years ago (1990's)....If it is an aluminum 10,000... (the salesman lied - said would work with stock setup)...had to run short flywheel bolts from Ford...and couldn't run a clutch with sprung center.


Flowers problem sounds kind of like the same problem I've seen with using 2.3L crank flywheel bolts (mustang/ranger type) with a 1.9L escort flywheel.

Would the flywheel bolts from the 1.9L escort crank be short enough?

TOTALAWSUM7
12-30-2010, 11:12 AM
Not sure.... Ford part # from back in day...... F0CZ6379A

boportt
12-30-2010, 12:15 PM
3L mitsu flyweel bolts werk purfect make shur u aint using automatic bolts cuz they aint got a shouldure

14flower
12-30-2010, 02:29 PM
ok so new update. but a new motor in last night with stock ranger bolts out of my other cars engine thats never had this problem. with the stock ranger flywheel. and red loctite cuz thats what we had. broke in the cam and everything was still fine took then when i set the timing at 6000 it was still fine once it the rpms got to 7200 the fly wheel started rubbing the bell housing from the bolts starting to lose up. we can seem to figure this (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) thing out and miller this is andrew gryers mini stock that u helped him with what he need suspion wise that where gona try to bring up there to fallon. but if we can fix this we ant ever gona make it lol. thanks again for all the input

boportt
12-30-2010, 03:58 PM
ur prob is u gotta quit using stock junk parts. u gotta meashur the lenth of the bolt and how deep ur hole is. ur prolly botteming out the bolt in teh hole

Foghorn
12-30-2010, 07:32 PM
As I mentioned before as well as BoPortt, do some measuring. Also look in the holes and make sure they are clean at the bottom and not full of crap or a bunch of old loctite. Also, get some NEW bolts, not some old ones out of a different motor. Do the bolts feel sloppy in the threads? If someone has been running a tap in and out of the threads they could be screwed. Take your time and do the things people keep telling you.

Milford Motorsports
12-30-2010, 08:44 PM
Remember loctite takes at least 12 hrs. to set properly.Can't imagin setting the timing at 6000 rpm,3500 should be more than enough.Are you reving the motor with no load to 7200 in the shop?No wonder parts are coming loose.

84Dave
12-31-2010, 10:39 AM
And most importantly, if it hasn't been done, dowel the flywheel to the crank flange. There's likely an extra hole in the crank flange that is 'empty'. On my 2.0L Pinto engines, I always install a 7/16" diameter dowel. That fixed the 'loose bolt' problem. But you'll likely have to drill a companion hole in the flywheel for the dowel to run through. -Dave-

boportt
12-31-2010, 02:23 PM
ok so new update. but a new motor in last night with stock ranger bolts out of my other cars engine thats never had this problem. with the stock ranger flywheel. and red loctite cuz thats what we had. broke in the cam and everything was still fine took then when i set the timing at 6000 it was still fine once it the rpms got to 7200 the fly wheel started rubbing the bell housing from the bolts starting to lose up. we can seem to figure this (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) thing out and miller this is andrew gryers mini stock that u helped him with what he need suspion wise that where gona try to bring up there to fallon. but if we can fix this we ant ever gona make it lol. thanks again for all the input

the way to fix this is take out the comon factor--U!!! cuz u have this prob, u asembled, u installed, u fixed. have sumone else look work on it new eyes solves allot of probs