View Full Version : Looking for a leaf spring set up?????

01-09-2011, 07:04 AM
I have recently just bought a 01' rayburn chassis. It has a camaro clip on it. I would much rather just switch it over to a 3 link coil car but everybody tells me that with the rite set up a leaf car can be fast. Sooo i am going to try it out but i am looking to get the car as tight as possible and i have no idea what i am doin with a leaf car!! It is an old limited but where i race at they are considered pro stocks now. Any help and or opinions would be great. Thanks

01-09-2011, 09:51 AM
FastBoys Leaf setup( Info )
FASTBOYS leaf tech(get it here)
Let's try this one more time
I am not too good at this typing and spelling thing, but I think you can get what you need to know about this setup
from this thread
I will start with a good base setup for what we will call the Fast Boys leaf setup.
Forget everything you ever knew about leaf springs (also most of what you do on bar cars is backwards from the way this deal works)When a bar car gets up on the bars the l/r tire walks forward, making the car loose. With this setup when the car hikes up on the l/r and the pinion rotates up the l/r tire goes back (making the car tighter).
Let's start with taking a standard stacked leaf car and making it into a fast boy's rear.
There are two ways to do this, the first is the easiest and would be a good way to start (easier to drive until you get
the feel for how tight it will be to drive).Leave the r/r leaf the way it comes(can use a 150 or 175 Ibs stacked leaf), instead of clamping it to the rear-end with u bolts you need to float the r/r spring mount on a bird cage. Leave the r/r shackels alone .Make sure you mount the r/r shock off of the rear end tube (instead of the lower spring plate) or it will wheel hoop.
Rebuilding the L/R leaf
Next you need to redo the l/r leaf spring and mounts on that side. This is the same for both the mono and stacked
setup, and the 2 stacked leafs setup we are talking about now.
1 have mostly used afco leafs in the past but I do like the new landrums that I have been working with now. I take
an afco 31 and rebuild it to make it hook on slick tracks. Take and cut the bands off and move the 2nd leaf down
(the one next to the main ) and redrill the center hole 3"s back ( moving the front of it forward). Now take the 3rd
leaf and turn it around 180 (front to back) and use the same hole. Now take the 4th small leaf and throw it away.
While you have it apart you will see that the main leaf doesn't have enough arche in it. I like to rearch it so that
when it is standing on the floor with the eyes down it is about 7 or 8"s tall at the center pin. Only put the arch in the
front of the spring (from the eye forward).also I like to add some arch from the pin forward in the other 2 leafs also.
When you bolt it back together only band the front of the spring (not the back).
What this has done is made the front of the spring stronger to deal with the increased load that this setup has on it, but the spring rate is now softer (letting it flatten out at ride height) and the extra arch will still want to come back into it when the l/r is hiked up (keeping the l/r tire on the ground and digging).It is important that you DON'T try to run the standard alum lowering block and u bolts on this deal (they will break). I run a 2" block on the r/r and a steel hand made bracket on the l/r that would be like running a 3" block. If you buy the parts from R C for this it is important that you weld the l/r bracket all the way around the rear end (the l/r is the only thing doing the lifting and it will try to tear everything over there off).
L/R Shackle
Now for the l/r shackle. This is where you will tune for heavy or dry tracks. You need to be able to put the top mount forward so that when at ride height the shackle has about 40 degrees of angle in it .I put my mounts on top of the frame rail and run a long 11" set of shackles. If you hook a tape in the 5/8 ths hole that the front spring eye goes in and measure back to the top of the rear frame rail make a mark at 51 "s and 53.5"s this is where the top shackle bushings need to weld on. Run the front hole for dry tracks and the back hole for heavy tracks when you want to take the wheelie out.
As for shocks on this deal, softer is better. I run 93 on r/r 94 on l/r and a pair of 74 s on the front. You don't run any 90/10 wrap-up shocks or any pull bars or 5th arms on here (been there tried that didn't work as good.) Make sure you mount the l/r shock so that it has about 6"s to come out and only 3 in when at ride height. Also keeping the back of the car lower is faster with this setup.
Mono - coil R/R setup
This is the full blown (Full Tilt) way to do this deal. It takes a bit to get used to driving ,and is not for everyone The
car will be tight when you pick the gas back up, and also have more side bite going in. You can drive the car way
into the turn and when the tail comes out and most cars would have to wait to get back on it till the tail is back
under you, instead you pick the gas up while the tail is out and it will bring the tail back under you. This is because
of two things, first the l/r spring is the only thing that is putting load in the rear end when you pick up the gas, so it
gains a bunch of l/r bite when you are on the gas (probably gains around 200 to 300 Ibs or so) but when your off
the gas and on the brakes going in it gains r/r giving you more side bite.
The other thing that this does is the roll steer. Bar cars move the r/r back and the L/R forward when they get on the
gas. This makes the car loose and so they have to run more wedge to keep the car straight coming off the turn,
that makes the car loose going in and loose through the center.
With this set-up when you're on the gas the L/R tire goes back in the wheel well and tightens up the car. The mono
on the r/r is all that is pushing the car forward on that side and is floated so the wrap-up is out of the picture. This
makes the mono s up some and moves the r/r tire forward in the wheel well. This roll steer along with the way the
r/r coil is mounted makes the car tight when you're on the gas and tight when you're on the brakes.
Here's how to do the r/r.
Put a mono on the r/r (I use the main leaf out of an old stacked leaf).You have to float it on a bird cage just like our
2 stacked deal was. Here is where you have to get this correct at. Mounting the coil on the r/r.You have to mount it
on the back side of the rear end tube and to the tube itself (not the bird cage or the lower plate).try to get it about
7"s from the center line of the axle (much like a coil over mount on a l/m clamp bracket would look).Try to get the
top of the coil in about 15 degrees and also back 15 degrees.
I run a 125 coil spring over there, but most guys like to start with around 150 .Mount the shock off the front of the
tube and go in and forward on the top mounts.
R C race cars sells all of these mounts if you can't build them.
Here are some basic numbers for my type leaf car. Each car is a bit different, but try to keep the rear and left side
percentages close to these.
I scale my car without driver (always have) keep all lead to the left and to the rear. Try to get left side at or above
54, and rear at or around 60 at the end of the feature, I run a long wheelbase car so adding my lead to the very
back of the car doesn't make the car swing the tail like it will on a short wheelbase car,
I can get these numbers with the car weighing about 2300 after the race. On the 2 stacked leaf setup start with
around 50 to 75 Ibs heavier on the R/R tire than the l/r tire .On the r/r mono and coil deal you need to start with 100
to 150 r/r heavy. This will make your r/f tire weigh around 300 Ibs but don't get to nervous.
As far as stagger you can't get too much. I try to run 3.5 to 4"s all the
time (this will tell how good you were at copying this deal if you can't run that stager you probably didn't get it
correct). Run big tires on both fronts if your looking for more forward bite ,and small tires on both fronts if you need
the car to turn in better on fast tracks.
Wheel Offsets
I like to run all 3" offset wheels ,l do mess with that a bit, but it is backwards on this setup than any other car you
have ran, and everyone that tries to help you with tightening up your car with wheel offsets will be telling you
Here's how it works on this deal. To make the car tighter on a dry slick track, move the l/r tire UNDER the car
more, If you want to make the car looser ,and easier to drive on a tacky heavy track move the wheel out on the l/r
and under the car more on the r/r, ,l know that sounds backwards but that's how it works on this setup ,and is
where most racers screw this deal up.
That is a good start and I will post a link to the pics again and go into the mono and coil r/r deal next, just give me some time.

P.S, to 4M please let us know when your going to dump this thread so we can copy it next time please, There were a lot of racers using it to work with this setup and you made my phone keep ringing from deleting it. I am not, nor have I made ANY money from posting on here (Just trying to help out the low budget racers.
Scott (Scooter) May

http://photobucket.com/albums/v655/j21style/Fastboys/ Reply Reply With Quote .

01-09-2011, 08:05 PM
A stock car and a modified are two different race cars.A radical set up like the fast boys is needed in a modified,no downforce on the front and the front geometry that is not as good as the camaro. Add a spoiler on the back and if your on the hard tires it's all most like the more you slide the car the tries like the heat it builds.
With the nosepiece and the camaro clip a stock car will respond to front spring and shock changes more than a modified.Depends on rules but most stock cars have better tires.I do agree 100% with what the fast boys setup is trying to accomplish.Keep the car tight and stable on entry and then keep it tight on the throttle

01-09-2011, 09:14 PM
I just figured this set up would give him alot of diffrent adjustments and it also makes the car tight just like he was asking for. He would more than likely want to use the stacked leaf setup to start with.

01-10-2011, 07:42 AM
So will this setup work on my limited?? And would you recommend leaving the leafs under it or going to a coil car?? It has chrysler leafs under it now so i should probably buy new so i know the spring rating is? I have only ran one leaf car and i bought it pre setup so i never had to mess with it. I didnt care for it much but i am willing to try with this car for a little bit. This is why i am on here asking for advice before i just tare it all out and go back to a coil setup.. I love a tight car!! I was thinkin about buying a set of mono springs but u say i should start with the stacked setup first? I appreciate all the help though guys!! I have just started racing about 4 years ago so am still new to this but i have been around racing and working on racecars my whole life!! From bombers to sprint cars but have recently just went on my own so am looking for as much help and advice as possible!! OH, AND ARE CARS HAVE TO WAY 3000LBS. IS THAT GONNA AFFECT THE SETUP YOU GAVE ME?? AND WE CAN ONLY RUN 8 INCH AMERICAN RACERS. AND IS IT POSSIBLE TO GET A LEAF CAR TO PULL WHEELIES? JUST CURIOUS...

01-10-2011, 09:02 AM
I was looking at your pictures too and i am not allowed to run sliders or how u have that coil spring on the r/r. Is this setup still gna work?? And if so how do you arche your springs more?

01-10-2011, 01:31 PM
If you can not use the sliders or extra coil spring than I would go with a 3 link or 4 link and use coil springs or coilovers.

01-10-2011, 07:48 PM
Are you allowed to float the RR ?

01-10-2011, 08:27 PM
Ok then thanks for the info anyways. Atleast i will know that for a future reference. What do u mean by floating the r/r??

01-10-2011, 08:30 PM
Ok i just read a lottle section of our rule book and i can run the slider but i cannot run the fifth spring. And as far as i know i am able to float the r/r.

01-10-2011, 08:48 PM
A leaf car doesn't run a fifth spring. If you run the fast Boys set-up you need to float the RR. Southwest Speed #550-300

01-11-2011, 06:25 AM
Im confused tehn because if you look at fast boys pictures it shows the fifth spring on the leaf spring setup.... So do i just ignore the fifth spring and run it without it or is it still a better option to just go with the 3 link?

01-11-2011, 09:07 AM
Sorry I thought you was talking about a fifth coil set-up. The pic is a mono leaf set-up on the right side, a single leaf on the RR, not stacked. The RR is floated and the coil spring is attached to the axle, not the spring plate. When the car rolls over to the right, the weight of the car pushes down on the coil spring and rotates the axle, since the RR is floated , all the torque from the axle is on the left side, tons of forward bite. I had this on my mod and never could get any side bite, but if you have stacked leafs just float the RR and do what it says about the left spring configuration.

01-11-2011, 01:27 PM
Check your PM.

01-11-2011, 03:09 PM
I am running a Monte Carlo against Camaro's with same setup. Does anyone have any suggestions to run with stock snout Camaro's? If so what do I need to change.

Right now car weighs 3150
Left is 52% , Rear 53%, and 52 1/2% across
Bite 175 lbs with 2" of stagger on dry slick track
Shocks-LF- is 5, RF- 7, LR - 3, RR- 3 9" stroke on all shocks
Tire Pressure-LF-10, RF 15, RR-11, LR-9 on 10" tire
with stock length trailing arms and left rear is down in 2nd hole on rear end.
Right height LF - 6, RF - 7, LR- 8 and RR 9 - Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

01-11-2011, 04:14 PM
Dont quote me on this but i would try tightening the staggar up as tight as u can get it on a dry slick and/or tack y track. When track is wet open the staggar up to about 3 inches. Try a 150 on the r/r as well. N as far as tire pressure i have ran l/f 13 r/f 25 l/r 10 and r/r 18. Not sayin this will work for u as it did for me but it should. AND AS FAR AS YOUR RIDE HEIGHT THAT DONT SOUND RITE TO ME. I ALWAYS RAN EVEN IN THE FRONT AND EVEN IN THE BACK WITH THE FRONT BEING AN INCH HIGHER THAN THE BACK.

01-13-2011, 12:36 PM
Dont quote me on this but i would try tightening the staggar up as tight as u can get it on a dry slick and/or tack y track. When track is wet open the staggar up to about 3 inches. Try a 150 on the r/r as well. N as far as tire pressure i have ran l/f 13 r/f 25 l/r 10 and r/r 18. Not sayin this will work for u as it did for me but it should. AND AS FAR AS YOUR RIDE HEIGHT THAT DONT SOUND RITE TO ME. I ALWAYS RAN EVEN IN THE FRONT AND EVEN IN THE BACK WITH THE FRONT BEING AN INCH HIGHER THAN THE BACK.

Sent a reply to your message.

01-14-2011, 10:42 AM
One more question... Is that fifth spring on the fast boys pic a pull bar? If it is a push or pull bar i believe i can run it.

01-14-2011, 07:21 PM
That fifth spring that you are talking about is holding the car up. The leaf spring is a single leaf spring, it only holds the axle laterally. With leaf springs you don't need a pull bar.

01-15-2011, 07:22 AM
I am not sure what i can do then. Somebdy told me that was like a pull bar ur something. My rule book says no fifth coils but i am not sure what that means. I told one guy about it and he syas i can run it cz its not a fifth coil. Said some people call it different things. I am so lost lol

01-15-2011, 07:40 AM
Theres 2 different cars in the fast boys pictures as well. And between the 2 cars they r both setup a little different. Im just lost lol

01-15-2011, 07:35 PM
And neither has a fifth coil.A fifth coil is kinda like a pull bar but in a different place, farther forward. Some leaf cars use a pull bar and some don't, does your car have one now?

01-16-2011, 08:06 AM
no my car does not have a pull bar. all that is under my car are leaf springs n thats it.if that bar and spring is not a fifth couil then i can run it. all it says in my rule book is no fifth coils.

01-16-2011, 04:27 PM
You can run that set up if you want to, but it is not a fifth coil set up. It is a mono leaf set up on the RR.

01-27-2011, 07:43 PM
I have the FB setup on my SS and to be honest it's faster with the RR locked down. The setup does have it's moments where it does something spectacular like grab ahold of the race track here and there but the disadvantages outweigh the advantages IMO. You really need to wait on the car to come around before you nail it as the car hikes up on the LR when you gas it. Wherever the car is pointed. That's where it's going to go. If you're with a group of leaf cars that have their suspension dialed in you're going to get beat. There are 4 cars with this deal in the class I've run and I have yet to see anyone do anything that someone would consider "a big improvement." So yes, shift the LR spring like a FB, Hang it like a FB shackle but keep the RR locked down.

01-29-2011, 08:33 PM
Why would you keep the RR locked and redo the LR, doesn't make sence. The purpose of the Fast Boy is to get more LR bite other the RR and with the RR locked it's a regular leaf spring set up.

02-02-2011, 10:48 PM
First off if you have the FB setup it's important to have the option to lock it down when the track is hooked. It WILL push like a dump truck on a hooked up track, I don't care how hard you throw it in or how low you bring the cross. I run my car at 47 with it locked down. With the RR locked down it still hikes up on the LR, just not as much. Especially if you get some pitch into the spring. The West Coast SS or old East vs West cars are on point. The leaf cars are very fast on dry tracks without the FB. So while I like the fact it can do crazy stuff here and there, the fact it needs to be driven so hard means consistancy goes out the door. I have seen many people try the FB setup and I have yet to see someone win with it in the WCSS. Most of the faster cars fell off using it and most who have it on their cars don't unlock it. I think it is an advantage to having the FB spring on the LR as well as the longer shackle. This is just my experience. I'm going to try it a few more times at the practice session and I'll let you knwo if I change my mind.

02-03-2011, 07:50 PM
I say, unlock the right rear, and " let-er-eat" lol

02-05-2011, 09:39 PM
Stacked leafs & nothing else just leafs work great ..........................

02-06-2011, 01:54 AM
Sounds like a disease I know, but actually the car I have has leaf springs already and is a jig car and seems to be at least 10 years old. The rear hook up for the springs are at least 4 inches wider than the front mounts. I am thinking that would be a pretty good bind when I install my rr floater. Should they be straight, or parallel? If there is an advantage to the "toe in" for the leafs then would be interested in why. If not, then I am going to try to straighten them out, mostly just to get the bind out of the floater.

Right now there is a split of 200 lb lr and 175 on the rr and no rr floater yet. I have it but have to clean up the rear end some first. Anyway, I was just curious.



02-09-2011, 10:11 AM
Towing the front of the spring in too far with a FB spring creates a bind forsure. I had problems this year getting the car to transfer to the rear. The towed springs create anti-sqwat which is good to a point. But with a stacked leaf I think you need to be careful as you can create a car that does not rotate and hovers rather than digs.

02-09-2011, 08:22 PM
This may help. http://www.landrumspring.com/pages/list_page.htm?file=Technical&newsno=15

05-24-2011, 10:16 AM
Hi, trying to get some info on the fast boys base setup as I am new to this setup.
What front springs are best for the base setup & do you run the front springs with the heavier spring in the LF or RF?
Do you run the wheelbase straight up or do you run the RS longer do to the LR walking rearward under acceleration?
What is the best mounting point for the leafs on the rearend? Do they work best mounted closer to the hubs or does it matter?
Does it help to run the pivot bushings in the front leaf eye or is the rubber bushing better?
Any info would be greatly appreciated, Thx

06-14-2011, 06:08 AM
What if you ran single mono leaf springs on the rear with coil over sliders/eliminators? mount one in front of the rearend and one behind? anyone ever tried this? ......would you have to run a panhard bar to keep the rearend under the car side to side? Kinda like a half breed 3 link without a pullbar?

06-14-2011, 08:19 PM
I had a mono leaf mod with the fast boy set up. I did what the post said to do and couldn't get any side bite, so I made my own and fixed the side bite problem. I put the RR spring on the leaf spring mount and not the axle.I also had to put another half spring on the RR in front to keep the mono leaf from bending.I recommend putting the coil spring on the axle. On the left side I put the coil/slider on the spring plate behind the axle, and 2 other front halves of a leaf spring on the left. The car had side bite and GREAT forward bite. I had no pull bar and no upper shock.

06-15-2011, 03:37 AM
Thanks Dirtrunner...

03-22-2012, 10:53 AM
Hi everyone I have made the change from the 2 stacked leaf to the mono with a slider and a coil eliminator on the rr but I can not get this thing to scalee right it shows -100lbs bite here are our numbers keep in mind we have to be 3000 Left 1525 55.27% Rear1410 51.10% Cross 1134 41.10% L/F870 R/F479 L/R655 R/R755 Total 2759 W/O Driver and half a tank of fuel Does this sound right I'm just nervous with the -100 lbs bite

10-02-2012, 01:10 PM
after seting my car up to the fast boys my cross was at 46% is this what you want for cross? scott said to run 100 of bite at rr

10-02-2012, 03:18 PM
That what he says to do so try it, I had a little left rear with mine and it was a little too tight.

10-03-2012, 10:23 PM
after seting my car up to the fast boys my cross was at 46% is this what you want for cross? scott said to run 100 of bite at rr
Depending on the mechanical bite you have in the LR, the RR bite will vary. You are in the ball park. Use the RR bite to tune with.

10-06-2012, 10:35 AM
thanks dave have you ever experimented with a soft spring rf with a leaf car.the setups from leaf chassis builds all put in a 850 to 900 in the rf and a 750 in the lf.2500 car

sj valley dave
10-06-2012, 12:00 PM
When we ran a RR floater and a FB LR set up a few years ago, we tried a 750 RF and a 800 LF on a big momentum 3/8 mile, El Centro, and it worked really well on that track. It dried out and we took some stagger out and shot ourselves in the foot as it got an acceleration push then. We found that you had to run stagger with that set up to help keep the acceleration "tightness" out of it. That was with Dirt Bozzes though...

10-06-2012, 04:04 PM
I ran the FB setup only for one season, was outlawed . Like Dave said it is very fast at one point, and very undependable if you miss it. Never seen anyone hit it consistently. The most predictable nite I had was when Ron Capps the funny car driver ran my car and I detuned it for him. He was moving up to maybe second when he was taken out. I ran 900 range on the leafs.
The metric car is in the 700-900 range. I like the weight transfer front to rear and vise versa.
I'm still suffering from brain damage and plan on running a soft spring setup in a IMCA nova. We'll see. At 2500 lbs you could go softer. My test is drop springs until I get 4 inches of front shock travel. Front geometry goes to junk after that.
The softer spring will travel over the rough track better. I've also found you can tune with the shocks better on the soft spring. Also depends on the driving style. Very aggressive, hard on the brakes will take more shock and spring.
Good luck.

10-17-2012, 05:49 AM
the guys I have helping me are bar racers.They say its not rolling onto the right front going in.Do I want this with leafs?will unbanding the right rear help the left bit more off?rules are just leafs no dampner shock or pullbar.I can use lowering blocks and slider mounts.I read mounting the shocks 3 to 4 inches from the axle will help dampen axle rap right behind left in front.I have a slider on the right and a long shackle on the left.I have a afco 166 rr and a landrum 175 lr I think Im a little light on the left so I thought about adding a half leaf to the front of the left rear any thoughts there.

10-17-2012, 06:19 AM
D?ch thu?t Ph?m L? Gia ├║p cho b?n, ch├║c b?n b├ín d?t h├(not a nice word)ng..

10-17-2012, 10:11 PM
the guys I have helping me are bar racers.They say its not rolling onto the right front going in.Do I want this with leafs?will unbanding the right rear help the left bit more off?rules are just leafs no dampner shock or pullbar.I can use lowering blocks and slider mounts.I read mounting the shocks 3 to 4 inches from the axle will help dampen axle rap right behind left in front.I have a slider on the right and a long shackle on the left.I have a afco 166 rr and a landrum 175 lr I think Im a little light on the left so I thought about adding a half leaf to the front of the left rear any thoughts there.
First question is how good is it in the entry.
If the guys are referring to rolling into the RF like a modified; that leaf wont like that. That leaf is not a 4 bar, bird cage. The leaf wont move that much. I want my car to dive into the corner, more level. I mount the shocks at the axle. The leaf is progressive, and slow compared to any other suspension. Let the driver do the dampening.
The half leaf will help.

10-17-2012, 10:14 PM
D?ch thu?t Ph?m L? Gia ├║p cho b?n, ch├║c b?n b├ín d?t h├(not a nice word)ng..
I think I got everything translated right from this dude. He also wasn't sure if you were floating it??

07-19-2014, 06:06 PM
I have a 07 robert crump car stacked leafs both side with bird cage on rr and 3" adjustable block on lr and 2" solid block on rr..new leafs and precision performance shocks..I have no side bite what so ever and I cant get on the gas in the middle of the corner out it doesn't matter if its tacky track or slick...can someone please help!

08-03-2014, 10:47 AM
it sounds like springs to stiff or the clamps on leafs are to tight.

09-20-2014, 10:40 AM
Using this setup - front row outside.

Suspension Cam

I run on the west coast in the Super Street division and I can tell you that most of the cars here are very fast. They usually win wherever they go. Here's what I have done. First, you need to be able to take apart the springs and reassemble them yourself. Most spring shops can replace the clamp with a U style which holds the leafs in place but doesn't clamp them. A bolt usually crosses through the top part to keep the springs in.

Do the fast boy to the left spring. But put some arch into it. From the front of the spring only. The front gives you drive. I put 10 inches of arch. Yes, 10 inches. That means rotate the second spring and slide the 3rd forward and redrill hole. Now when you put the spring in, think of it like a barred up car. Mount the spring in the upper hole you can. like 10-15 degrees. On the back you'll need to lower the spring down with about a 12-15 inch shackle. Make the shackle thick. I use about a 2 inch block on the LR. On the right you can do the same thing to the spring you did to the right. It will create an amazing amount of side bite that you will control with offset in the wheel. If it''s lunging too hard, move the wheel out. Also you'll need a stiffer shock on the RR for this. Like a 5 gas. on the left a 3/5 up 3 hold 5 gas. I use bilstien. Back to the right. You want to mount this in a stock location with the spring going uphill from the rear end about 2 degrees. You need to keep an eye on the uphill degrees when you use this because when the spring flattens out the car looses drive. You will also need a slider on the RR. Mark the slider where the pin is when you start. As you run a few races you'll notice that the pin moves back. When it goes more 1/4- 1/2 inch you need to rearch your spring. Floating the RR sucks in traffic and is slow in the middle. The car has to be driven like a cowboy to race. This setup will be more drivable and produce a lot of drive. To arch your springs get a $100 press. Slide each spring in 2 inches and work it. Don't go nuts. Keep moving it in 2 inch intervals. Only do the front. Take the spring out and lay it on the ground and measure from center. Match the other springs to it when you get 9-10 inches.

10-20-2014, 09:21 PM
Your Super Streets are very much like the WISSOTA Super Stocks here in the upper midwest. Mine is a leaf carů Camaro stub with tube chassis on back. Mopar leaf springs.

The last leaf car I built I also used Mopar leafs under a Ford frame. I set-up the front eyes lower than the centerline of the axle to try to get as much anti-squat as I could. But this was a long time ago and rear suspension tech has changed so much.

What's your pinion angle set to? When you say arch the springs to 10" do you lay the spring upside down on a table and measure from the centerbolt to the table? I have plenty of springs on handůMopar, Afco and Landrum so I think I'm going to give this deal a try.

It also looks like you are tossing the car into the corner pretty hard. Are you using a lot of rear brake bias to set it up for the corner? Looks like El Centro is a big 1/4 mile?

10-27-2014, 04:01 AM