clamped up lr

[junebug]

will clamping the lr instead of floating it make the car free on entry.....right now my car is tight on entry when the track is tacky, just wondered if this would be a good thing to do to make car turn in better

[racin6mod]

I fill like it does other may not but it does tighten the chassis on the throttle.but if your car is good for the feature you might be better off with a smaller adjustment like a rr side wheel offset front or back.

[junebug]

its awesome in the slick, i can pull outta line and pass cars in the junk....in slick it doesnt slide at all on entry which is perfect, but then when tacky the car just WILL NOT turn on entry, super tight, cant get it to rotate in

[Dirtrunner35]

Add more stagger when the track is tacky.

[junebug]

yep thats one of the things i already do, also add more rr trail, but car is tight on entry, both those seem to be more of a mid corner adjustment

[Gregory43]

Would goin to a softer right front shock help any? If im thinking right that would let the car roll off the left rear on entry. Idk, just throwing an idea out there for discussion.

[nobodyracing]

stiffin rf shock. 6 doller spring rubber works good and easy to install and take out later when track gets slick. that works 4.

[junebug]

my thinking was wedge loosens entry so would wanna do things to get the car to drop on the lr.....thats why i was considering the clamped up deal cuz when u lift it falls on the lr a ton.....what do u guys think bout just adding wedge for certain conditions

[1Mower]

Try to add alittle more roll steer in the rear.. ( bar angles)... If everything is good in the slick...

[nobodyracing]

a spring rubber adds wedge when put in rf. if put in lr not as much.works good in spring bullbars to.thier easy to use. they stiffin spring weight. go on any car builder websit and click tech they piont you rite way to go. spring rubber is cheaper then shock or spring.try it think you you will be inpress. stiffer shock on rf or lr holds wedge longer it will loosin in.

[AroundTheWall]

If your only problem is tight in, I would soften the left front spring and/or stiffen the right front. Raise the bottom right z-link/4-bar one hole on the chassis. Adding air pressure in the rear tires will also work. Stiff rf shock. Less fuel. I wouldnt add wedge as that will tighten the car up on exit. I would change one at a time so you get a feel for what each change does.

[dirttrackrocker]

I had the same problem and went to a 1" offset wheel on the left front with a 1/2 in spacer. Helped a ton..

[nobodyracing]

when you add a spring rubber to rf or lr your adding spring rate and wedge. stiffer rf or lr shock holds the wedge longer. check out any car builer tech on thier site they will point you rite. spring rubber works 4 me.

[nobodyracing]

when you add a spring rubber to rf or lr your adding spring rate and wedge. stiffer rf or lr shock holds the wedge longer. check out any car builer tech on thier site they will point you rite. spring rubber works 4 me.

[1Blacksheep]

If everything else remains the same (hike ,corner wt, springs ,bar angles) and you are staying on the gas it will have no effect, unless you breath it after entry . Then the tight will get worse for an instant.

[Dirtrunner35]

I totally agree about the conflicting advice given by various shock manufacturers. It sometimes makes me wonder if THEY even know how to use their own products. I, too, have several examples of conflicting advice for the same condition from various shock "tuning" charts.

Stated simply, I use shocks to alter/adjust/change a condition known as, "Instantaneous, Dynamic, Diagonal" - hereinafter refered to as "IDD".

The Cup guys get into suspension lockdown and other concepts for aero purposes, but my work is on the short tracks where the car often comes in with slightly different "aero" shape than it went out with after a 15-lap qualifier .

Okay, got your fresh cup of coffee and a notepad?????

Picture a car sitting on four wheel scales. This car has absolutely equal weight distribution, so all four wheels weigh exactly the same.

Now, if you were to push down on the exact center of this car, all four wheel scales would increase equally.....everybody agree?

If I were to add shocks to the RF and LR that had high - or higher compression values, and I pushed down on the center of the car, what would happen????

That's right....The RF and LR scales would show momentary increases over the other two scales due to the resistance of the two shocks, but everything would even itself back out again after the shocks bled down, and all four wheels would be equal in weight again......OKAY???

What happened here was a change in the IDD. For just an instant, there was more diagonal - or crossweight - with the RF and LR momentarily being more heavily loaded than the other two wheels.

But, once the shocks bled down, the setup returned to the equal-wheel-weights setup.

Now, go the opposite way.....lift slightly on the car.

All four wheel scales should show equal reduction of weight on all four wheels.

Add shocks with more REBOUND to the RF and LR, then lift again.

The RF and LR scales should show a momentary, increased reduction of weight over the other two scales until the shocks allow the wheels to go into full droop.

In this case, we have, momentarily, reduced the diagonal - or crossweight - for an instant.....

......which explains - for those of you who have read the Penske shocks setup manual - the suggestion to set the car up with a slight push on turn entry, dialing it out with LR rebound.

LR rebound induces a momentary reduction of crossweight upon turn entry, but allows the suspension to return to its original setup for turn exit.....effectively giving you one diagonal - or crossweight - for turn entry and a different one for turn exit.

A reduction of RF compression would probably serve the same purpose, but I am most comfortable working with rebounds - although I WILL monkey with compression when my back is against the wall.

With the right shocks, you could actually instantaneously DECREASE the diagonal or crossweight for turn entry, and INCREASE it for turn exit - or vice-versa.

The above is an over-simplified example of how it SHOULD work, and as we all know, nothing in racing is really "simple."

But, if you can get the concept of "controlling" body roll or weight transfer out of your mind, and visualize instantaneously - and momentarily - increasing or decreasing the diagonal or crossweight for better turn entry or exit, and you SHOULD begin to grasp the concept of shock tuning....

....and, by the time the car rolls into your pit stall, you'll have a pretty good idea of what sort of change you'll want to make without needing to dig out a chart.

After talking to the driver on the radio and observing, I usually have a shock ready before the car stops, and we can often make a fairly quick change and get back out top practice....depending, of course, on exactly which type of car/shock mounts I am working with and the abilities of the crew.

I hope this helps....

[nobodyracing]

i agree with shock tuning. if i had the money to buy 4 shocks per wheel.

[1Blacksheep]

Don't get to wraped up in the shock game. We have won with junk on 2 corners for limiters only . Now dudes that have ran the same stuff for 10 years and really know their stuff get paid great divs. for their experience . Shocks are cool,but they are not everything! Tune the same reliable junk every weekend and learn its characteristics, it will serve you also. I will also add you can take a machine that is kicken as$ consistantly and really Fk it up with a crazy package everyone else says is workin for them. When you hire a shock dude you better hire someone with knowledge of your stuff.:eek:

[nobodyracing]

i agree 100% i cant buy truck load of shocks + spring.

[powerslide]

Pm sent KISS