single stage dry sump

[cvh5]

any body know how or if you have to keep this set up primed through the week. or if it drains back will the pump pick the oil back up. this set up is off of the bell housing

thanks

[Kwaz-13]

I'm installing a 3 stage myself, so I don't know if this is applicable. The guys that have given me info who are mostly running 4 or 5 stages have said to turn the motor over with the starter until it builds pressure. Then turn the switch on. Maybe this is typical of all dry sumps?

[parrot69777]

Actually all engines, whether its a wet or dry sump, should be turned over without the ignition on until it builds pressure. If a cylinder fires without proper lubrication...it drives the connecting rod/rod bearing into the crank with no cushion.

[cvh5]

i am talking about a single stage pump on a wet sump pan. no tank

[powerslide]

like previously mentioned all should be spun over with the ignition switch off once up to pressure flip the switch and let it eat. all the oil wont run back it will have low spots in the hoses and keep a little oil in them. But like i just said still wouldnt chance it just whirl it over with switch off

[wrench1]

I used to run that same pump setup. After a long period of time it will drain back and would usually never reprime. I would have to take output line off and pour oil through pump. Those pumps work better when mounted below oil level so they won't loose prime. Your starter will never live trying to crank it. Good luck

[cvh5]

THANKS

that is what i was looking for. might mount it on the front, lower left always will have supply

[Kwaz-13]

Although it might not be the cheapest solution, using an Accusump setup with a cutoff will get you around the problem with losing the prime.

[dynoman14]

The easiest way to get it going is to use an electric drill with a gear installed on a mandrel and spin it over that way to get pressure. If oil drains back it will be very difficult for them little 1 stage pumps to prime to engine to 60-80 psi.

Our ARCA rental engines were dry primed like that until we got a heat reading on the engine oil line, and a minimum of 80 psi. Once we hit that we turned the engine over while the drill was still running and pre-lubed the engine. After about 20 seconds the belt was installed back and the engine was fired off.

It probably sounds like a lot of trouble, but how much life do you want to add to your bearings, cause the first dry scuff will never, ever repair itself and it will cause catastrophic damage soon after. At least 1/2 of the crate engines I see have scuffed bearings.

Accusump is an awesome alternative but you have to be able to turn the engine over when the sump provides pressure to the engine, so you will have to get the high pressure anti-drain back valve and a shut off valve in the car so you can let the oil in when you start to run the engine.