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racing28
04-02-2011, 10:48 PM
I just put new brakes on car(master cylinders, rotors, pads, and calibers), I am running 7/8s master cyls. I had to get one us brake and one wilwood because that is all speed shop had in stock. Now I can't get a good brake pedal. I bleed brakes in shop twice then went to track had no pedal for practice, bled brakes again then run heat had no pedal again, bled brakes again, still had no brake pedal for feature. When I was bleeding them I had no sign of air coming out it looked like straight fluid. I can't think of any thing else to check. I would not think running two brands of master cylinders would make a difference. If anyone has any suggestions i would appriciate it. Thanks

JAMESGANGRACING
04-03-2011, 10:32 AM
Really should use 1" masters.

BCR
04-03-2011, 10:37 AM
When you say u have no brakes explain.
Does ur pedal go straight to floor?
is it a firm pedal but just not stop?
If you pump up the pedal. does it stay or drop some if you hold it there?
If you pump it, does it get higher or firmer ?
just so we can get a better idea.

runyou-2
04-03-2011, 11:11 AM
This may sound stupid but,make sure you haven't put the calipers on the wrong sides.If they're on the proper side,the bleeders will be at the TOP so the air can surface to the top and you can bleed them.Seen it happen more than once.


Second,if you have floor mounted pedals,it is real hard to get all the air out of the system without using residual (check) valves in the lines right after the master cylinders.If so,they will solve your problem....been there,done that!

racing28
04-03-2011, 12:43 PM
The pedal goes to floor board and doesn't slow car down very good. I pumped pedal down straights and it seems just slightly better. What is the correct lenghth to screw studs on masters into pedal?

joeltjen
04-03-2011, 09:29 PM
mix and match any way you want, it dont matter. sounds like ypu have a high spot thats trapping air that wont "push" out.
you might need to find someone with a "power bleeder"( a large resivoir that holds about a gallon of fluid with a bladder in it) and you charge it with air , clamp it inplace of the resivoir top and bleed. since you wont have the pumping action whjle bleeding it is easier to get the high spot air bled out. also while youre bleeding them only hook 1 master up at a time. if you bleed the front first and your problems with the rears . having the front hooked up after being bled will hold you from getting a good stroke to bleed the rears. now after youre done bleeding, put your bias adjuster in the middle,(crank style) and adjust both rods so they just touch or 1/2 turn slack while being careful so the bar the rods hook to stays at a right angle to the cylinders.

PIERCE3J
04-05-2011, 07:29 AM
Did you bench bleed the master cylinders before you put them on to get all the air out? Also, why are you running 7/8 masters?

frontrunner
04-05-2011, 08:33 PM
u need 1'' master cyinder for the front & 7/8 for the rear, u need less pressure & more volume for the rear if u r running on dirt....