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strykr
04-11-2011, 04:41 PM
Has anyone ever used AV Fuel 110 LL for racing fuel? Just wondering how it works and what differences in jetting if any. I know that it is 110 octane but a leaded fuel.

roybeckett13j
04-11-2011, 05:36 PM
I run about half 110LL and half 91 pump in my istock, no problems with it! didnt have to change jetting, but did give it a couple more degrees of timing.

C10
04-11-2011, 10:50 PM
Aviation fuel is a tight rope to walk. IT IS NOT THE SAME AS 110 Race fuel. Race fuel consists of the correct amounts of "Light Ends" (the components that make the fuel easy to burn) and Heavy Ends (the components that keep the fuel from detonation). Aviation fuel has considerably MORE light ends then heavy ends due to the fact that airplanes operate in different atmospheric pressures, and altitudes with less usable air.
This in turn creates the danger of detonation and spark knock in land based vehicles, along with your fuel boiling in the fuel bowl from the heat of the intake. This is espically bothersome after you shut off the car from your heat race, then try to restart it for the feature as the carb will boil dry and dump excess fuel into the intake. This is also an issue when you get spun out and the car dies, it makes it harder to get refired.
Now with that said, what is the compression ratio of your engine? IF you are under 10:1 you can simply run 91 to 93 pump gas and not have any issues. Best thing is you will save a butt load of money in the process. If you have no real fuel rules and have a high compression engine then I would switch to E85. Its cheap, it runs COOLER and has a high octane rating. My strip car made 8 more hp with E85 over Methanol so just a few things for you to think about..

dirty white boy
04-12-2011, 12:05 AM
not that i know anything bout fuel atoms an what not,...serch bill hendren's post on fuels,..av fuel been discussed to no end on here an why it shouldnt be used in race motors....good luck!

strykr
04-12-2011, 04:16 PM
thanks for the advice. I've been looking at the E-85 what kind of jetting would you need with a 383 13:1 motor with a 850 holley? Would it be simular to running alky? Also what kind of fuel pressure?

C10
04-12-2011, 05:46 PM
I changed nothing other then my metering blocks, ordered a new set from DaVinci, but others are running the Quick Fuel blocks and have much success. Fuel pressure is the same, lines same, pump the same, fuel cell the same, there are WAY too many myths surrounding E85. They changed the jetting on the dyno so I am not sure what they went too, but will say you will have to go up there.

50j
04-13-2011, 07:10 AM
I changed nothing other then my metering blocks, ordered a new set from DaVinci, but others are running the Quick Fuel blocks and have much success. Fuel pressure is the same, lines same, pump the same, fuel cell the same, there are WAY too many myths surrounding E85. They changed the jetting on the dyno so I am not sure what they went too, but will say you will have to go up there.

Actually this is not accurate. What I've learned is that SOME carburetors will have large enough booster channels to get away with that, but most don't. There are also things like air bleeds, squirter nozzles, needles and seats, and floats that should be changed. Just putting metering blocks on might work for a drag car if you're lucky but won't work well at all for circle track. Having something that needs to work wide open only and needing something that works well everywhere are two very different things. You also use 25-30% more fuel than you will on gas, so to say to just use the same fuel lines is inaccurate. If you try to use -6 lines and 6 1/2 psi on a long track, it won't work. You also want a fuel pump that'll work with alcohol. There are several people on here that tried to use block mounted gasoline pumps and had the seals fail. I've been using it since 2001 or 2002, and love it but you need to do things right for it to work on a circle track car.

50j
04-13-2011, 07:37 AM
Something else to think about is that the metering block "conversion kits" are four corner idle. If your carb isn't set up for four corner idle, that won't work well either. Can a generic metering block calibration work on every carb regardless of the carb size, air bleeds, the motor it's going to be used on, elevation? Nope. In the long run, the best results for the money will be to send the carb to a good carb builder and have it done. JDR (417-859-2353) does a conversion that includes the rebuild, recoloring, adjustable air bleeds,venturi work, plated parts for around $375.00. Mine even had a choke tower on it and that was milled off. I've got a couple of them now.

C10
04-14-2011, 12:23 AM
like I said they changed the jetting on the dyno. If your not using a 1/2 fuel line to begin with then yes change the line. Kinda thought that was a given, sorry. The guys at Quick Fuel dont just sell you a "Generic" block, one size simply doesnt fit all. They have very specific questions that are asked at the time you call them. I do understand what your saying though, just was trying to state that the E85 conversion is not as difficult as its made out to be.

50j
04-14-2011, 07:41 AM
I'm glad it worked out for you. It's great fuel. Not to be argumentative but I'd bet you dollars to donuts that if you have three people call them with totally different applications and check the metering blocks when they show up, they'll be EXACTLY the same. Even if they're not, that doesn't take care of the other issues with the boosters, air bleeds, and so forth. You might get away with something like that on a drag car with some Holley carbs, not all, but if you try to use it for circle track you'll never get off the corners and you'll get ran over on restarts. Circle track is WAY different than drag racing. When you start adding up the cost of the parts to do a piecemeal conversion, you're very close to the same amount that it costs to have a nice one done that includes a lot more. Why waste time and fight with it. Just my opinion.

C10
04-14-2011, 12:42 PM
I can agree with that, and I assure you that my drag car is as precise as out late models. I have been in racing for way too long and the dirt car precision has rubbed off on the drag racing! My inital carb came from DaVinci. It has screw in air bleeds, channel restrictions etc. The Wide Band is right on the money, but like I said , it was tuned for it. I try to not type out too much stuff on here as it gets long winded, in turn some things get left out in the process. I know you are not arguing with me and I am not as well, were doing the same thing, trying to help out and you have filled in some of the things I have omitted to keep from dragging it on too long. lol