New to 602

[ask0329]

Just had my very first 602 delivered yesterday so I'm getting it ready to go into the car. Couple of questions. I have read the "manual" that comes with it but have also talked to many other drivers. Most all drivers drop it in, run it a bit and go racing. They tell me they dont do the valve lash insturctions that come with it or do the recomended break in. Wanted to get opinions on this and see what others are doing. Thanks.

[Racer63]

We break ours in. Check out Brad Hibbards website. He gives lots of useful info on break in and many other things for crate motors. http://race-1.com/

[hsracer]

The GM crate motors are broke in after they are built. If you pull the oil drain plug when you first get it home,you will notice that there might be some oil that will come out. They run them on propane on a dyno till operating temp and then ship them out.

[Racer63]

That is the first time I have have ever seen that posted anywhere. Good to know.

[Egoracing]

A friend got a 604 that had no tie bars on 3 cylinders, not sure how that would have gotten run in. I have never heard that they were run in at all.
We always run them in with break in oil. That friend found the issue during break in and GM replaced the engine, race it and it is yours.

[ask0329]

I have heard from a couple people now that they are broken in at the factory.

Couple of questions and I hate to sound completely dumb here but #1 what are Tie Bars?

#2 The manual referenced running a hose from the Intake to the Water pump? What is the purpose of this? There are two holes on the front of the intake aside from the normal water hose. There is one for the water temp guage on top and then the second one on the front that is supposed to run to the water pump? Pull the plug from the top/back of the water pump and connect the two?

#3 I'm running a stock water pump (as I have one thats brand new on the shelf) and V-belts. Should I go with 25% reduction pullys or straight up 1:1?

[hsracer]

I have a 602 in a street stock and run 1:1 pulley ratio and the temp never goes over 200.I also have a dual pass rad and a 4 blade fan with a water restrictor in the lower rad hose.

[Racer63]

First one I had we melted down with all those hoses on it. didn't get the air out I guess. Got rid of that crap and have never had a problem since. I have KRC set up with I think 15% reduction. Double pass radiator and 19" 4 blade fan. No shroud to speak of and temp never gets to 200.

We plug the holes in intake to keep dirt out and plug the other holes where they call for hoses to run this way and that.

[SRXSRULE]

There is no signs what so ever that thess motors are test run at the factory. Any oil in the pan could simply be from engine assemble. The first one I got this year had a bad oil pump right out of the box. Installed the primer and the oil pump was grinding. Dont know how that could have been tested. Eric

[ask0329]

I'm running the single pass speedway motors radiator and it kept my 400 cool so i'm not too worried about the radiator. 4 blade steel fan from a nascar cup team with some ridiculas angle blades. I was running the stock pullys on the 400 (which I'm assuming stock is 1:1) so I'll just go with new aluminum 1:1 pullys and lighten the load.

[dluna11w]

I've gotten many different answers as to whether these are broke in or not. My brand new 602 had almost 1 qt of oil in the pan and oil all over in the valve train area. I decided to break in anyway, but I wish they would put in the manual more info on this. The weird thing is that GM also sells a break in book that you can buy with these motors as well.

[Egoracing]

I've gotten many different answers as to whether these are broke in or not. My brand new 602 had almost 1 qt of oil in the pan and oil all over in the valve train area. I decided to break in anyway, but I wish they would put in the manual more info on this. The weird thing is that GM also sells a break in book that you can buy with these motors as well.

They spray the oil in them so they can be stored and not rust, no other reason.
It would be kinda stupid to take the time and write a book on how to break in one if it was already done wouldn't it.
After a call today to GM (not a local dealer but the actual people at GM who are over the crate engine program that I meet while developing a series) the engines ARE NOT broken in before shipped. It would be to costly to do every engine that they build as they woul drequire break in then they would have to be reoiled and bagged to keep them from rusting. The engines are assembled and oiled to keep any moisture from rusting the components inside the engine and causing problems.

[ask0329]

does the 602 take a special fuel pump push rod or will any old push rod out of a small block chevy work? If its a special one does anyone have the part number? I only ask as I have the one out of my 400 on the shelf and was hoping to use it instead of having to buy one.

[swaybar]

It takes the standard SBC FP push rod.

[ask0329]

Took the car out on friday for the first night. Had real nice power and kept up good on the straights. I'm out of practice so I had a tough time getting through the corners. Other than that, water temp never went over 200. Didnt notice any leaks, squeeks or problems. So far I am not regretting changing over to a 602. Started it up sunday in the garage and purr's just as nice as it did on day one.