23 Degree motor package

[Wildtime]

What is a good combination to make 750-800HP out of a 23 degree motor from pan to headsany ideas would be highly apreciated.

Also is there any wet sump system out there that is just as good as a drysump setup??

[Egoracing]

Something with a turbo, bolwer or NOS. You will not see 800 Hp with a 23 degree head motor without a power adder or WELL over 450Ci.

[mqdirtracer57]

650 HP is a wishful number with 23 degree stuff and it would cost thousands to make it happen

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

You guys beat me too it. Build it as big as you can!

[dfhotlm33c]

700-750 is achievable, but exceptionally difficult with a 23* engine. Mullins Race engines claims 750 for their Mod motors..but it would take the perfect combination of parts..If you got Brodix 11xSP heads, and had them worked perfectly and matched them with a perfect camshaft, and had about 15:1 on a 430-450 ci engine, and had a completely blueprinted engine with the lightest rotating assembly and valvetrain humanly possible, 750 may be possible...800 heck no..but the money you will spend on working the heads and perfecting absolutely every piece of the puzzle would be much better served on an 18* or 15* engine that would achieve the power you desire much easier..

In addition, 23* engines tend to be very "torquey"..as in they have way too much peak torque that makes throttle control and driveability very difficult, especially in the slick...

Finally, if your goal is to win every week, or compete with the big guns at big events, then you will need the 800 hp...otherwise, 600-650 is usually enough to keep up and do well for top ten finishes at all but the tackiest of tracks..I just watched a guy that I know has a PPMS spec head (Think -11s with no work done to them at all) 23 degree 380ci engine, and a Muncie transmission in an old 2" pipe Rocket finish 7th last week at Lernerville ahead of big shots like Lynn Geisler, and Boom Briggs...so take that for what it's worth..

[rubbinsracin]

like the rest said. 700ish is probably the most you would ever get out of a 23* motor with everything turning out perfect. depends on what kinda track you are running too. if its a hammer-down tacky big track the big HP motors will prevail. however, if you race on a small slick track you're never going to get all 700hp to the track and 400hp will do just fine.

i watched a Legal 602 GM Crate win against limited motors a few weeks ago in the slick.

[let-r-eat]

Yes your goals are achievable. Not practical for dirt racing unless 23* head rule is mandatory. Look into RR245 all pro heads/Airwolf 23* or spierracingheads/dr J performance. They are doing those numbers pretty easily but practicality won't make sense. A good 18* engine would do it much easier and for less money.

[Egoracing]

I have heard the claim about Mullins racing engines several times and have been all over their web site and I have not seen a single claimed HP number on any of their engines.

[Wildtime]

Thanks for the helpful informatation I really like 23 degree engines they seem to hold up alot better and have great torque but like in the replies I think a 18 degree head motor would be best but I am very interested in how much it would cost to get 650hp out of a 23 degree design or if its still cheper to run 18.

[charcoal01]

Thanks for the helpful informatation I really like 23 degree engines they seem to hold up alot better and have great torque but like in the replies I think a 18 degree head motor would be best but I am very interested in how much it would cost to get 650hp out of a 23 degree design or if its still cheper to run 18.

Guy I know had a motor built by a very well known builder, 23 degree heads, excellent internals, dart block roller motor. 677 hp and 660 tq, paid around 20k

[talclipse]

Do not get caught up in the dyno racing game. it just proves expensive and is not applicable to the racing we do. I am going to assume by your question(s) that you are relatively new to the sport. You can spend a BUNCH of money trying to polish a turd into a something its not and at the end of the day all you have is a lighter bank account and a mess.

For the money a good 18* engine package is tough to beat. I am partial to Chapman's head work, I feel like the 18* motor I had was probably the best driving smoothest piece I have ever had. With that said for the best bang for your buck I think a good 18* combination is hard to beat.

As far as your dry sump question goes there is no way to make a wet sump as 'good' as a dry sump. The additional oil capacity you get with running a dry sump, and the benefits of vacuum are impossible to match with a wet sump motor; even with the best pan, best external pump, etc. it just isn't the same.

I'm not an engine builder by any means; this is just stuff based on my opinion. Best of luck to you.