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View Full Version : IMCA metric spec upper a-arm



propit21
03-20-2012, 12:03 AM
ordered a right side and left side tubular upper a-arms and i can't seem to get the right camber caster settings for them on the car. Had stock a-arms on the car before and put the same number of shims in and its way off. I got the RF kinda done but its not close on the numbers i want. Does anyone have any tips or ideas, the frame is stock, stock spindle and afco balljoints. Rf front right now is camber -4.5 and caster 3.4 seems like to much camber and i can't take shims out otherwise i loose caster? help please.

propit21
03-20-2012, 08:44 AM
yeah i have the longer one on the LF and the shorter one on the RF like it says in the speedway cat. Right now on the RF i have no shims in front and about 8 shims on the back bolt and my setting is caster 3.4 and camber is - 4.5 static. that is about a 3 hours worth of trying to figure of playing with shims and flipping the arm over and everything else in between. when i check the LF with no shims in the back bolt and 3 in the front it read caster -5.5 and camber 0.1. I have the arms on with the IMCA sticker up and in the back like i think it should go.

propit21
03-20-2012, 06:26 PM
got a intercomp digital gauge.

i will try the LF with no shims and see what happens.

spindle are about 4 races old stock metric spindles haven't hit anyone or anything in those last 4 races i know of. Could be i will take a good look at them.

just wonder if people have gotten bad arms sent to them before that weren't jig right or something. It really doesn't make much since to me, i got the lower arms level and went to put everything back on and it seem like all numbers where in left field.

thanks for the help. just looking for ideas

C10
03-20-2012, 11:25 PM
If your lower control arm bushings are shot, they will really mess with your numbers too. I would take a good look at those as well.

53003jason
03-21-2012, 11:20 AM
I would check the lower control arms they could be bent or cound have enlarged the mounting hole. If you are having problems getting caster out of it I would enlarge the rear lower control arm mount holes push the lower ball joint forward and weld washers over the frame holes and call it a day!

propit21
03-22-2012, 08:42 AM
found a problem after looking real close on the left side the mounting hole on the frame had been repaired before and there was some welding slag that was keeping the arm from sitting flush so i grinded that down and numbers starting getting better.

After hours of work what numbers i came up with was RF caster 3.4 camber -4.4, LF caster 0.8 and camber 0

RF has 8 shims on the back hole and none on the front, LF has 4 shims on the back none on the front. shims I am using are just washers.

IS that to much right front camber? another question what is more important caster or camber if you can't both numbers to what you want.

thanks for all the help everyone

SRXSRULE
03-24-2012, 10:52 PM
Something is not right with the RF. My mounts are in the stock location and I use the same IMCA spec arm. My RF is 4.5 caster and -2 camber and I have shims on both bolts. I can get even more caster and still keep the camber around -1.5 to -2.0

I've Used around a dozen of those arms in the last 3-4 years and never had an issue getting the front end settings where I want them. Eric