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jrkracing54
04-02-2012, 06:55 AM
How many laps can you run a good full synthetic oil before changing? Thanks in advance for the info. John 1*

joedoozer
04-02-2012, 07:49 AM
You just opened up a can of worms, lol. If you built the motor yourself, there isn't a "standard" time. If the engine was built by a known builder, they would be able to give you a recommendation. Based on their experience looking at bearings and doing rebuilds. These aren't street engines that you can say change it every 3,000 miles. There are just too many variables that change everything.

I run Valvoline VR1 10W-30 Conventional and I add a Zinc and Phos additive. We run 12 to 18 times a year, I run the motor at 7,000 RPM and change the every 6 races. My bearings looked great after the first season. They looked like they were right out of the box. This works for me, so I will stick with it.

Many will disagree, and everyone will have opinions.

FlatTire
04-02-2012, 09:10 AM
I go 7-9 races/280-370laps at 8000rpm on Royal Purple synthetic and my engine builder tells me the bearings look fine at rebuild time.
The smartest way to figure out how long you can go between changes is get an oil analysis done.

joedoozer
04-02-2012, 10:43 AM
Does rubbing the oil between my fingers and smelling it count as an oil analysis? haha

jrkracing54
04-02-2012, 12:38 PM
O.K. guys thanks for the input. I run Amsoil Dominator 15W-50. I will also be adding a bottle of zinc additive because it has a flat tappet cam. Thanks for the info.

sj valley dave
04-02-2012, 01:24 PM
We run Gibbs XP-3 with a cooler and 2 quart filter...We change the filter every 2-3 races and fill back in 2 quarts of oil. We normally run about 12 races or so between changes...That is about 600 laps or so...This is 800 hp at 8400 rpm and the rod bearings looked literally new this last winter in the rebuild...

C10
04-02-2012, 06:25 PM
We were sponsored by Dyson/ Synergyn oil years ago. We had our oil analyzed after about 9 races, with filters changed often, and they claimed we changed it WAY too early. So the next season we didnt change it till about a week after mid season running 3 nights a week. Bearings looked great at the end of the season.

hpmaster
04-02-2012, 09:34 PM
I was a industrial engine re builder for Waukesha Engines in the 70's and early 80's, we tested all our engine oil throughout it's warranty life. Spectrographic analysis, microscopic and acid digestion testing can tell you just about anything you want to know about the oil after you have run it including what is wearing in the motor by what types of metal is prevalent. With the costs of oil and engines it might not be a bad idea, I have not done one on my race motors but I over change oil and always have.

I bet if you goggle oil labs for spectrographic analysis, microscopic and acid digestion oil testing you could find a testing lab to test your oil and get a baseline by running the oil say 150 or 200 laps and sending it in to be tested. Another thing that can open your eyes on oil is to read SAE oil test data. I know there is data out there that gets past the marketing hype so read it. 25 years ago, so I know this isn't true anymore, Mobil's cheapest oil tested better than most "racing" oils. Read the tests before you buy the hype. As for filters engine guys have all sorts of ideas, do what he wants. The WIX spin on racing oil filters actualy filters less by having larger micron media openings, to insure oil flow over particle removal I believe.

I tell you what, now that you got me thinking about it, I will be a guinea pig and get the oil tested from the first 150 laps on my just freshened motor and publish here what the test guys think I should do. That would be the second oil change because my builder runs them about an hour on the dyno setting the carb and stuff, then drains and refills it with new oil. jmho

I still use the same oil additive I learned about from running tests on oil 35 years ago. I don't want to argue with anyone about additives so I just will keep what it is to myself and no it isn't Teflon based.

JustAddDirt
04-05-2012, 09:37 AM
hpmaster?
Is the additive STP?

andy16
04-06-2012, 11:34 PM
this is going to sound crazy but i worked on a top fuel funny car as engine builder for 8 years seen alot of oil come and go. these motors are the hardest on oil. gets diluted by the nitro its a solvent. out of all the oil sponsorships over the years the one that made the bearings look the best was valvolene vr1 with valvolene 75 120 gear oil as a additive. i qt gear oil to 1 gallon oil. we tried mobile 1 lucas castrol rotella red line and quaker state. the better ones were valvolene castrol and rotella.

i built late model motors on the side also and used this same oil combo for all my motors w great success. the gear oil made it kinda smelly but worked great. put 18 races on a set of coated brgs w .0019-.002 clearance and they showed no signs of wear. after 2 seasons still looked good but changed them anyway.

im sure it dont make the most horsepower but its readily available at any advance or autozone and its bulletproof and inexpensive. used it in 750 hp 9000 rpm sb2 to a steel head wet sump. zero problems. just sayin if it aint broke dont fix it

merc123
04-08-2012, 10:40 PM
Oil Analysis: www.blackstone-labs.com

Egoracing
04-09-2012, 06:54 AM
Andy, the oil you got 5 years ago is a far better oil than you can get now. Even Rotella has been changed. If you tried it with the oils they are selling now the engine would not last.

Egoracing
04-09-2012, 04:49 PM
Hey John the car looked good in victory lane this weekend!! Congratulations!

jrkracing54
04-16-2012, 07:15 AM
Thanks Kip. We are still riding that high. We ran pretty good this weekend at BRP too. Third quick on Friday and ran 5th then had a rough night Saturday when the left rear tire sealed over. Oh well that's how it goes sometimes. Gotta stay outta the slick I guess. Talk to you later. John 1*