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modfan55
04-14-2012, 01:13 PM
wilwwod bia adjuster, doesnt seem to make a diff. not matter which way we crank?

washeduptoo
04-14-2012, 01:31 PM
How are you checking them? Do you have a brake bias pressure gages? We jacked ours up and cranked bias all the way one way. You shouldn't be able to move tire by hand if its biased all the way to that tire. You might have some air in system. Hope you find the problem.

johnny v
04-14-2012, 06:29 PM
wilwwod bia adjuster, doesnt seem to make a diff. not matter which way we crank?

Are you saying it doesn't make any difference on the track or you can't see any difference in the shop looking at it while applying the brakes? On the track, you could have the wrong size master cylinders , glazed up rotors or pads or other brake issues....in the shop, you have to set the bias bar up correctly for it to work.... with a normal mod set up.... 1" MC on Front brakes, 7/8" MC on Rear... the threaded rod is going to looked angled slightly in the pedal assembly until you mash the brakes, then the rod should even out... if it doesn't ... your MC's are not adjusted correctly with the clevis rods..... make sure when you set them up... you don't pre-load a MC too much and block the return orifice in the MC.... a little free play is needed ......

there are some nice articles on the internet about how to properly set up a bias bar assembly... but the above is a short version...

good luck....
johnny v

Racer111
04-14-2012, 07:03 PM
To check your bias crank to one side while looking at the bar push pedal you should see 1 cylinder going in first then turn all the way to the other do the same that cylinder should start first.On M/C size you should have same size M/C.On the track turn to all rear brake during packing track step on brakes rearend should come around then crank to front hit brakes car should stop straight..

LM14
04-14-2012, 08:07 PM
Make sure you have at least a total of 1/4" of free play between the side of the pedal clevises side washer and the sides of the pedal where it houses the bias adjuster at the top of the pedal. With the clevis and big flat washer against one side of the pedal, the other side should be 1/4" free and clear. If not take the pedal push rods apart and turn the clevis to get that clearance. The adjuster won't work properly without it.

Make sure both pedal push rods are threaded in the pedal clevises the same. Take them apart and put each rod 6 turns into the clevis to start. Once you have done that, adjust them equally to put the pedal where you want it for driver feel.

Make sure your adjuster is lubed inside the top of the pedal. If you haven't been spraying WD40 or similar product in the bore where the bias bearing is sitting in the top of the pedal it is probably rusted up. Should be a weekly part of maintenance.

Finally, make sure the crank is actually turning the adjuster. I have seen the flexible portion of the crank cable/hose get soft or kinked and it rolls over itself and doesn't actually turn the bias adjuster. Looks like it from the interior but not when you watch the bias adjuster at the pedal.

Watch your pedal pad when turning the adjuster. If your pedal moves back and forth (toward the driver and away from the driver) with each turn, the threaded rod going thru the bias bearing is bent. Replace that threaded rod if it moves very much. It will normally wiggle a little but shouldn't be dancing all over.

What size master cylinders? Are your brake gauges plumbed correctly?

Good luck,
SPark

johnny v
04-14-2012, 08:09 PM
To check your bias crank to one side while looking at the bar push pedal you should see 1 cylinder going in first then turn all the way to the other do the same that cylinder should start first.On M/C size you should have same size M/C.On the track turn to all rear brake during packing track step on brakes rearend should come around then crank to front hit brakes car should stop straight..

I guess not all cars are the same.... our 09 Shaw modified set up sheet calls for 1" front, 7/8" rear... thus the slight angled bias bar static setting.... as long as they are straight when compressed.... you are good to go.....

racin6mod
04-15-2012, 09:46 AM
LM14 maybe correct.I drove for a guy a few years back that had the links tight up against the pedal making it one. no mater how many turns you put in it always had to much rear brake.once I relocated the msd box(it was mounted over the pedal assy) I could see the problem.the wilwood instruction sheet calls for .200 to .250 per side.

DaveBauerSS6
04-15-2012, 08:51 PM
I guess not all cars are the same.... our 09 Shaw modified set up sheet calls for 1" front, 7/8" rear... thus the slight angled bias bar static setting.... as long as they are straight when compressed.... you are good to go.....

My car came with 1 inch on both and couldn't get enough rear brake . Swapped like Shaw said to 1" in front and 7/8" rear. Magic; Ive got brakes.
Make sure you caliper pistons are moving, pull back the pistons and push the brake pedal. They should move freely.
Any air in the system will soften the bias and give low readings on the gauges. Be sure to bleed the gauges.

frank 75
04-15-2012, 10:25 PM
Had the same problem with my Wilwood, by a set of Tilton pedals and you will be very happy.