Dual stage rf question

[Wheelman33]

Has anyone had any luck with a 4" top spring? Ran a 5" last yr with alot of success but switched to an aluminum engine this year and dont have enough threads on my shock to get the ride height correct. It looks like the 4" spring will coil bind b4 i hit dual stage nut. Just curious if anyone has run it this way

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

I have heard some say they got it to work, but I think you have to have relatively low static rf weight to have a chance.

[TALON75]

what about just moving the shock mount up a little bit, I know it will change a little but might be better than trying to figure out a new spring set up if you like what you got now . I did it on our 09 Rocket to keep the shock from bottoming out, yes it didn't roll over as easy on the RF but made some other changes that hepled that happen and now she it is back to where I had it at the end of last year when we were running well and up front more often than not .

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

what about just moving the shock mount up a little bit, I know it will change a little but might be better than trying to figure out a new spring set up if you like what you got now . I did it on our 09 Rocket to keep the shock from bottoming out, yes it didn't roll over as easy on the RF but made some other changes that hepled that happen and now she it is back to where I had it at the end of last year when we were running well and up front more often than not .

I would rather add drop to the shock mount on the lower control arm, if that is possible.

[TALON75]

Ditto, just think most guys already have that, if not then your correct that would be better .

[mmfan2008]

just shorten your bottom spring

[ENVY Suspension]

Guys, if you will just buy the right length springs, life is much earier. Using a 6" or 7" spring is your best bet. Then, you totally avoid coil bind.

[grt74]

i agree with envy,and guys there is a lot of info on this in older posts,just do a search

[mab475]

Nothing wrong with using a 8" bottom and a 4" top spring just gotta know what your doing.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

If you are aware of, and okay with, the amount of combined rate travel it provides you.

[ENVY Suspension]

If you do your homework on using a 4" spring, you probably will not use them to race is all im gonna say. I dont want to be contradicting anyone, but theres a reason some of us dont use them...

[AmickRacing]

Anyone wanting to elaborate on the difference between the 4" and 5"? In private is ok too if there might be ruffled feathers if it's in the open.

I think I can wrap my brain around the differences between them, and what the different effects are (whether that's right or wrong, I'm sure there's plenty of people doing good on both setups), but I'd like to know a little more about this since this is my first year on the stacked RF...

[billetbirdcage]

Forgetting any coil bind issues:

if you have a 4" top spring, you will be limited on how much gap you can give it.

Say you have a 4" top spring, a typical coilover nut (your very top nut) has around .625" of tapered cone sticking into the spring at the top. Then your floater plate also has a step on it to locate the bottom the upper spring typically around another .25". So without compressing the top spring at all, you have 4" - .625 - .25 = 3.125" between the top of the floater plate to the bottom of the top nut, then add in the thickness of your stop nut (.5"), your down to a maximum of 2.625" of allowable gap and the springs aren't even compressed yet. So if the rates you have chosen makes the top spring compress 1" at ride hieght, your down to 1.625" maximum gap that you could run.

Yes, it can work fine but you may want to have 2" of gap as there's a chance that you can't get that much cause the spring is too dam short.

All things being equal like a 4"/8" set up verses a 6"/6" set up is the latter will allow 2" of more allowable gap to be used if needed. You just need to have the right floater plate so it doesn't come off the bottom of the shock with the shock is fully extended. If it comes off the bottom of the shock body it could get hung on the bottom of the shock and really mess things you set-up up. If you using one the plastic floater plates, you better study that a little cause there is a major problem there!!!

[grt74]

guys if you dont believe us ,or just want to know what will work best for you get a spring/shock rate machine,youll see why we are telling you this,and also be able to see any other problems you may not see,i would use 6/6" springs or 5/6" springs

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

guys if you dont believe us ,or just want to know what will work best for you get a spring/shock rate machine,youll see why we are telling you this,and also be able to see any other problems you may not see,i would use 6/6" springs or 5/6" springs

To nit pick, if you have a 5" top, I would use an 8" bottom then you don't have to worry about the bottom coming off the shock body.

[mab475]

I solved some of that problem by putting the spring nut in a lathe and turning down the collar so it's only .125 high and my lockout nut is only .375 tall so that gains me around an extra .375. Never had a problem with the top spring coilbinding and never needed extra room for the lockout actually had room to spare.

[grt74]

i agree with you masters but we wanted more gap so we made our own sliders and im not sure an eight and five will fit on a 7in shock ill have to check and see,,im sure envy would be a little more knowledgable on this but this is my experience

[hucktyson]

Re suspensions uses 7" springs top and bottom they work just fine on 7" ohlins front shocks.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

i agree with you masters but we wanted more gap so we made our own sliders and im not sure an eight and five will fit on a 7in shock ill have to check and see,,im sure envy would be a little more knowledgable on this but this is my experience

It works for me on M2s.

[ENVY Suspension]

Thats the reason we use a 6" and a 7" spring. Also, Hypercoil is currently working with us to get more rates of each length.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

PAC springs has 6" in 50# increments up to I think they said 700# now

[TWISTER]

I know there have been many post about this subject but rather than send folks to do research and all that why not just share here. Rather than all the comments about "there are reasons why we dont use them" and such, why not just share again with those who may not be 4m junkies...LOL. I have heard of several combonations of these springs myself, and have also heard that the 4" spring will coil bind before you hit the locknut. Is this the case and is this what it seems many are referring to by suggesting the 5" spring? Also what about the slider that is used to hit the locknut? There was mention of the "plastic" one having issues. What issues? I have the one that Afco has, is this one not correct? I would like to try this sometime but would like to only have to buy what i need one time, rather than buying the wrong length spring and/or dividers(floaters,sliders) then have to buy another. So if i were going to purchase the stuff to run this set uo would it be fair to say that i should start with a 5" spring for the top and a 6"-8" spring for the bottom?Who sells 5" springs? And what divider(floater/slider)? Also what would be a good spring combonation to start out with on a track that is relatively flat without a lot of traction? PM the info if you would rather keep your suggestions confidential.

Thank you.