grt handlin

[hobbyracerbn2]

havin trouble gettin the car to rotate goin into corners and seems like its not rollin over in the front ..wants to push in center..i got 500lf 350 rf 400 with 250 stack and 250 rr 75 lf 75 rf 96-2 lr 94 rr

[joedoozer]

Well I think you could do better with a tie down shock on the RF, but you need to look at the big picture.

Travel indicators will tell you if the car is "rolling over" to the RF, but it won't tell you if it's staying there (pinning). Installing an additional travel indicator on the LR will show you how much hike you are getting as well. The key to figuring out why your car is doing (or not doing) what it is, is gathering information. Tire temps, travel at each corner (compression on the right sides and rebound on the left), static wheel weights, tire pressures. A car can have a push with an ice cold RF tire, or one that is burning up. And what you change to correct the push is completely different depending on the tire temps.

You can correct an on throttle push with any of the changes listed below, among many more.

- Trail the RR
- Add stagger
- Lower rear roll center
- Lower ballast in the car
- Raise right side bars on the chassis
- Lower left upper bar on chassis
- Soften LF spring
- Stiffen RR spring
- Take bite out of the car

But the correct changes will be determined by what the car tells you is wrong.

I had an on throttle push early in the year. If you go only off a cheat sheet of how to fix it. They say take drive out of the LR, lower bars on the LR, add drive to the RR, increase bar angles to the RR. That could have fixed my problem. But what if I told you my tire temps were RR 160's and the LR was ice cold. Do these adjustments make sense now? Nope, those adjustments would fix a car with opposite tire temps. Look at all your information. The car will tell you what is wrong.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

I've run a similar setup, but with a 375 RF spring. There was a very fine range of bite that worked well on the stack deal, and its a lot less than a standard setup. Around 90 lbs was perfect. Anything over 120 was complete junk regardless of track conditions.

http://www.4m.net/images/smilies/redface.png

Were you junk on entry or exit?

[hobbyracerbn2]

Were you junk on entry or exit?

yea car seems to be tight into corner and a throttle push..my bite is around 150 lbs..j bar is in last hole on pinion,its got 7 1/2 of rake..run 6 inches of stagger in rear..my bars are neautral in rear with a 1/4 lead...this is a steelhead late and its a 97 with original 4 bar brakets with 4 holes on top and 2 on bottom..both sides on top are ran in the 3rd hole up and bottom sides 1st holes in bottom..but i do have the bearin grt adj birdcages

[hobbyracerbn2]

i sure do appreaciate the help living truth..umm i was goin to let u also know that the track starts gettin dry about the heat races lol...sometimes even the start of the hot lap...what u recommend on the trail..and how bout a traction shock? i got one i like to try it its adjustable on comp and rebound is 0..do i mount it and scale the car? sorry for so many questions i just really want to get this thing right

[hobbyracerbn2]

anyone know if u mount the lr ahead traction shock before or after scaling..what would be good percentages to start with for a steelhead that has to weigh 2300 this is a 97 grt with 21s on front and rears are 55s

[drtrkr244]

It sounds like your car is too tight through the whole corner.Ive never worked on a dlm that required 6" of stagger.That would require the turn radius to be less than 100'.

I would soften RR to 225,raise both bottom bars, and then put 3/8 to 1/2 " of lead in RR.

Then I would start reducing stagger to 4-5 inch range for the feature.

Your rear stagger should match the turn radius or your rear tires will be fighting each other instead of following the radius.Dont get sucked into the "monkey see, monkey do" mentality.

[hobbyracerbn2]

well i got a small motor little over 400 or maybe little under dont know..all i know is its a 355..i havent yet tried droppin my bite down yet to 90..right now its at 153lbs..seems like it could be a little loosened up goin in and espeacially on throttle

[drtrkr244]

If its in the budget, get a different shock for the RF.

You really need alot more rebound to de-wedge the car in the center.

A 3/7 off the shelf or 5/5 would help out.

I just ordered a set of g1 Genesis for a customer with a 4/10 valving for $257 inc. c/o kit.

[hobbyracerbn2]

hey guys i was wrong with the bite that i thought was in my car,instead it bein 150 it was 32 lbs of bite...but i did put 90 lbs of bite in it and scaled it with 4 1/4 of stagger..got to the track ran the car was a littler bit freerer goin in but would like it more looser.havin reall lay on the brakes to get it take a set and it would come off fine but little hangin out bustin tires loose..i had made adjustments but still not enough to get it..moved the rr lower bar up a hole and dropped the upper rr bar down a hole helped some..i just need this thing free in and i believe i could get it on through any ideas thanx

[drtrkr244]

Sounds like car setting down too hard on LR.Put more compression in LRF shock.

Soften LF to 475.

Raise j bar on pinion or lower on frame.

[hobbyracerbn2]

Sounds like car setting down too hard on LR.Put more compression in LRF shock.

Soften LF to 475.

Raise j bar on pinion or lower on frame.

i didnt run the lrf shock this time,but would that help my entry?i was thinkin thru how bout bite?j bar is ligned up in the middle of the yoke not to far down,its got 7 1/2 rake..i know car really dont really get up on the bars really that much..shoot this car is aggravatin me lol

[hobbyracerbn2]

Was your LR upper bar in the top hole on the frame? If not, that will help tighten it up on the throttle coming out.

The j-bar, again, I never measured rake. We would put the center of the mount up 8-3/4 from the bottom of the square tube on the frame and then use the second slot/hole from the bottom on the pinion.

If you need to free it up getting in, up the RF spring to a 375--or 400 if the track is heavy. Those were the only two springs I ever needed on that corner. 350 is soft, IMO, and would be why you are tight getting in.

I never had to touch the RR bars on our car. The lower stayed in the top hole, and the upper stayed in the second hole down.

Make the RF spring and J-bar change, and put the LR upper in the top hole when it dries.

Questions: what are your frame# and the ride heights?

some of the number has been ground off but others have told me it was a 97..3 inches on front and rr..so i need to go stiffer on the rf ill do that and rescale and do the jbar again..i did what u told me on the bars accept the top bars instead of movin the lr upper bar all the way i left it in the 3rd hole up but moved the rr upper from the 3rd hole up down 1 more hole..still tight in..i know they always say to fix handlin to start with entry

[hobbyracerbn2]

some of the number has been ground off but others have told me it was a 97..3 inches on front and rr..so i need to go stiffer on the rf ill do that and rescale and do the jbar again..i did what u told me on the bars accept the top bars instead of movin the lr upper bar all the way i left it in the 3rd hole up but moved the rr upper from the 3rd hole up down 1 more hole..still tight in..i know they always say to fix handlin to start with entry

another question how far out would u run the 5th coil out?i got it set on 34 with 300 spring with a 73 shock

[mickeyd18]

i have a 02 and Joe at GRT said to set the front end at 3 5/8" and the RR at 4.25"