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nthdrt
05-07-2012, 01:49 PM
Have a metric hobby and after coming off track the rr tire is hot but the lr isnt. Is this normal or is something wrong. Car dosent handle bad but isnt a rocket ship. Here is what the scale numbers on it lf 943, rf 636,lr 734 rr 851 left side 53, right side 47.1 rear 50.1 rear bite 119 The springs are lf 1000,rf 900, lr 300, rr250 qa shocks on all corners

ToTheFront
05-07-2012, 04:51 PM
Yes you have a problem, you are 119# RR heavy and only 43.3 cross. Do you have weight jacks? Give us more detail like what kinda track you're racing on, tacky, slick? Long, short? Low banked, high banked?

The more info you can provide, the better advice we can give you.

Driver88
05-07-2012, 05:07 PM
You have -119# bite

nthdrt
05-08-2012, 07:46 AM
Have a metric hobby and after coming off track the rr tire is hot but the lr isnt. Is this normal or is something wrong. Car dosent handle bad but isnt a rocket ship. Here is what the scale numbers on it lf 943, rf 636,lr 734 rr 851 left side 53, right side 47.1 rear 50.1 rear bite 119 The springs are lf 1000,rf 900, lr 300, rr250 qa shocks on all corners

we run on a 1/3 and 3/8 high banked dirt. imca class track is tacky for heats and most times turns to dry slick for features. any ideas?

ToTheFront
05-08-2012, 10:57 AM
Work on getting your LR to weigh more than your RR, shoot for at least 49-50% cross, you're at 43.3 right now.

See how you like that, then report back.

nthdrt
05-08-2012, 03:20 PM
Thanks for the help (to the front) We used someone elses scales and hell be gone for a while so i guess it will be trial and error. Were going to start by moving rear springs around and see what happens. This could be interesting.

ToTheFront
05-08-2012, 03:44 PM
Don't change the rear springs unless you have some with lower rates. Swap the front springs around, 900LF 1000RF.

Do you have adjustable spring buckets on top of the springs in the front?

You can check your rear bite without scales by placing a 5/8" socket on top of a floor jack & jack the rear of the car up by the center of the rearend. You want the RR tire to come off the ground before the LR. I'd shoot for something like 2-3" or so.

Thats an old school way of doing things, but it will get you in the ballpark until you can get back on some scales.

nthdrt
05-08-2012, 04:19 PM
no adjustable buckets but we do have lower number rear springs.Would you say swap the frt springs and do the jack thing by using lighter rear springs if needed thanks for the help

ToTheFront
05-08-2012, 05:42 PM
If you want to use what you have, I'd put the 250 in the LR and a 225 or 200 in the RR and try it out.

ToTheFront
05-08-2012, 08:44 PM
nthdrt, let me know if I can help you with anything else, you can PM me from now on.

drtrkr244
05-08-2012, 09:14 PM
Your springs are close enough for now.The rates are not that far off from what i recommend for my customers.

Your best bet is to add adj. spring spacers to the front springs.

I usually try to get 52-53% rear weight, and 90-125lbs of LR bite.

Try this before buying/swapping springs.

T_Spencer
05-09-2012, 11:58 AM
He has a 50 rear split now, changing to 25 wont change but 20 lbs of bite MAX approx.

Putting the 250 200 would do nothing, same split hes already got.

If your new to this scale stuff you shouldnt really be advising others.


Well, that's one more person you've run off this board. I know several now that will only reply on PM because of you. Good job guy!

ToTheFront
05-09-2012, 02:58 PM
Thats good if its true.

Nobody needs to be told incorrect information on here, lol.

Ive gotten over 40 friend requests on fb thanks to the thread on this forum where I posted my info for 2 days. Also another 15 emails asking for help, it appears there are more people who want good and correct help then there are total street stock posters on this forum...

Wow man, get a life. Did you beat your meat while you typed that?

One can only hope that you didn't reproduce, not sure if there's enough room on earth for another ego like yours.

I've been registered on this board for a couple years now but I haven't posted anything because I knew this idiot would get on here and have something stupid to say, didn't take long did it!

All hail the mighty one Jeff J who is the only person in the world that knows anything about setting up a racecar, nobody else on this board has ever made a car work the way he can, just ask him!

Seriously man, you're eat up with dumbass.

ToTheFront
05-09-2012, 03:37 PM
nthdrt, disregard anything I suggested, ask Jeff J for help, he knows the only way to make it work.

ToTheFront
05-09-2012, 04:13 PM
Yea you're right, changing spring rates and moving weight around to achieve a different set of numbers on scales cannot be done unless you are in charge.

Seems as if you came in after me and told him to work toward the same goal by a different means, the only way, the Jeff J way.

I told him to work with what he has, you jump in and tell him to spend more $$.

I do things one way & make it work, you obviously do things your very own way and make it work.

If anybody is "butt hurt" it's you, because someone else came on here and offered advice other than what you consider the only way, the Jeff J way.

Either way, it's all yours boss, you da man!!!!

T_Spencer
05-09-2012, 06:57 PM
Jeff,

How many times do you have to be told... WE..DO..NOT..CARE if you are right or wrong or even try to correct someone.
It's your stinking ATTITUDE when you do it. Are you really that much of an idiot that you do not see this ? Or do you just not care ?

ToTheFront
05-10-2012, 06:09 AM
Yea I get it, you're always right & everybody else is always wrong, you push this point everytime you post.

ToTheFront
05-10-2012, 09:04 AM
Going to softer rear springs was just part of what I suggested, CLEARLY isn't the only thing I suggested he do, not sure why you're so hung up on that?

I also said to swap the front springs & work with his weight in order to get more on the LR, after all most hobby stocks do have lead, maybe he doesn't? Either way....

I didn't get the opportunity to discuss anything further with the OP, you came in & said I was lazy because I suggested softer springs, can someone else confirm who threw the first punch here?!

For you to call someone else arrogant, WOW is all I can say.

I didn't intend on getting into a pissing match with you but you came in & did as you do with everyone who tries to help anyone out on here, start with your same old (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) about how nothing anyone suggests works, but yours does.

You're the only person on here that argues with everybody, I guess that means that everyone else is wrong, make sense don't it lol.

stockcar5
05-10-2012, 12:36 PM
like this?
http://www.buddy-icons.info/img/smile/1515.gif

C10
05-10-2012, 12:53 PM
In IMCA hobby stocks, the use of Ballast and adjustable spring spacers is illegal, FWIW.

ToTheFront
05-10-2012, 01:58 PM
If you want to use what you have, I'd put the 250 in the LR and a 225 or 200 in the RR and try it out.

Sorry it took so long to reply, i have obligations at work that wont allow me to sit in front of a computer screen all day and confess how mighty my setup skills are and how my base setup has won X amount of features and how everybody wants my super awesome setup.

If that were the only thing I said to work on, I could understand your arguements.

Either way, everybody on here already knows that you're the smartest poster on the board, trust me.

I'm tired of arguing with you about that one little detail that's only part of the equation, so go ahead and post one more time so you can have the last word like you so desperately seek to do.

stock car driver
05-10-2012, 02:02 PM
..........
I posted one more time so I can have the last word.

drtrkr244
05-10-2012, 05:53 PM
In IMCA hobby stocks, the use of Ballast and adjustable spring spacers is illegal, FWIW.

How about the spacers you cut to size then tack them in place?

If not, you'll have to experiment with different length springs and/or wheel offsets.

C10
05-10-2012, 09:31 PM
FRONT SUSPENSION: All components and mounts must be steel, unaltered OEM, in OEM location and match frame. OEM rubber A-frame bushings only. OEM or OEM replacement ball joints allowed. No rebuildable ball joints. No sway bars, spring spacers, chains or cables. Exceptions are: for 1978-1987 GM mid-sized metric frame, OEM upper A-frame may be replaced using aftermarket upper A-frame (steel or aluminum cross shaft allowed), must display “IMCA approved” decal on top of rear tube of A-frame; bolt on spindle savers allowed.

WEIGHT: No ballast allowed. Any item deemed as ballast will be required to be replaced - i.e. fuel cell straps, fuel cell cans, battery boxes, etc. No titanium, magnesium or carbon fiber products. No gun-drilled, tubular, hollow bolts or studs. Steel fasteners only.


That is right from my IMCA tech inspectors manual.