Run Min Weight or Correct Percents???

[Dirt Knife]

Been ot of Dirt tracking 4 a while 10yrs + little older wiser and $$$$$$.
From what I can remember since late 80's thru 90's is.
Never run more than minumum weight.
Ran mods though back then with engine setbacks ect.

Now running a Hobby stocker one of the top 10 1st loosers at track 30 to 40 cars a night.

2nd season 8 nights into 2nd season run good always 6th to 10th place 24 car field 25 lap Features. Can't get into the top 5 though.

Ok typical rules no engine set back car is gutted to skin great motor ect no chassis or shock binds
can run stock 4 link or remove one upper link and run a P bar.
They check all links nightly
run top link with spherical bushing on frame and soft rubber on top of ford 9"
have adjustable on ford 9" lower links stock metric front mounts for lower links
have 5 hole adjustability LR lower link in 3rd hole from axel c/l 7-8* uphill 2 front
RR lower is in 2nd hole down 5-6* up hill to front
P Bar 11.5" from surface plate on Left side frame 8.25 on rear axel
36" bar ( I run the top stock link on drivers side)
shocks run 6/2 on RF 5/3 on L/f (stock mount) (have 6/6 6/4 5/5 also)
run 4/4 and 3/3 and 3/5 and 5/3 on rears (stock location and mount)
4 wheel disk setup non floater ford 9" w/ 620 gear
1/3 mile 5 to 10 deg banking rough track goes to tacky in spring dry slick in summer and dry slick in fall
(from what i was told I need moreforward bite)
car is an 86 metric chassis
springs for corner weights to follow LF 925 RF 900 LR 225 RR 175
Have also tried from 125# to 250# springs for rear (these are all new no bought it at an auction garbage)
Front end tubeular uppers tall ball joints upper and lower afco centerlink all new no bent or wore out or binding parts)5.5* caster split -5* on rf +1.5 on LF camber 3/16 toe out

percentages

Front weight 1764 Left side 1709 Cross 1535 Rear **1460**
Total 3224 with driver and full fuel load 3162 with 1/2 gal in fuel cell
Min Weight rule 3150 usually after feature weigh 3170ish
LF 969# RF 795# LR740# RR 720#

Should I add 250 to 300 lbs to get to 52-54 % rear ??? then the car will weigh 35 to 3600 #

This isn't a left and rear offset cage chassis It was built new 10 years ago kinda lik the movie days of thunder under the tarp in the barn in the back 40
Let me know
Thanks

[Dirt Knife]

car is great first 20 feet out of the corner just buzzzzz the tires after that.

47.61% cross 20# Lr bite
45.28% Rear
53.00% Left (needs to be a little lower)

[cheaterleaddog]

car is great first 20 feet out of the corner just buzzzzz the tires after that.

47.61% cross 20# Lr bite
45.28% Rear
53.00% Left (needs to be a little lower)

start over how can that be 45.28 rear. start putting car on diet start at front of car aluminium bumper and hood, then for every pound you take off put that much lead on left rear until you get a push also sounds like your corner speed is super slow and just takes that long for rear end to skate out. What gear are you running and rpm turning

[Dirt Knife]

springs 925 LF 900 RF
Rear 225 LR 175 RR

3 link PH Bar 11.5" LH frame height 8.5" on rear end

Have to run the stock mounting locations for the metric chassis so we run the top drivers side link
and the 2 lower links. (all stock length)

Wheel weights 969 LF 795 RF
740 LR 720 RR

Nose weight 1764 Total Weight 3224
Left Weight 1709 or 53%
Cross Weight 1535 or 47.61% Min weight rule 3150
Rear Weight 1460 or 45.28%

Ford 9" disk brakes (non floater) 6.20 gear (turn 6100 to 6500 rpm)

Can not set engine back or run aluminum hood
run alum water pump v covers pulleys ect manual steering box (no p/s pump no alternator)
plastic nose and tail aluminum radiator plastic fan
car is gutted to skin everywhere (no brake booster ect)

Thanks for the input so far

[DANNY]

Can not set engine back or run aluminum hood
run alum water pump v covers pulleys ect manual steering box (no p/s pump no alternator)
plastic nose and tail aluminum radiator plastic fan
car is gutted to skin everywhere (no brake booster ect)

Thanks for the input so far

No power steering must suck when you get out of that thing after a busy night...

[cheaterleaddog]

[QUOTE=Dirt Knife;1548645]springs 925 LF 900 RF
Rear 225 LR 175 RR

3 link PH Bar 11.5" LH frame height 8.5" on rear end

Have to run the stock mounting locations for the metric chassis so we run the top drivers side link
and the 2 lower links. (all stock length)

Wheel weights 969 LF 795 RF
740 LR 720 RR

Nose weight 1764 Total Weight 3224
Left Weight 1709 or 53%
Cross Weight 1535 or 47.61% Min weight rule 3150
Rear Weight 1460 or 45.28%

I have seen this rear end set up before but I think you are way off on front end set up and weight! what angle do you run on left rear lower control arm. Get out a stop watch and check corner speed compaired to some of the other drivers. I bet yours is way way slower.

[Dirt Knife]

Just came off scales last night.
left rear trailing arm uphill 7-8*
Right rear uphill 5-6*

Have to use the stock frame mount on the chssis
Yet the ford 9" has the adjustables on it.

Have tryed both all the way down which = 15* uphill wow hook and unload fast.
Have tryed both @ 5* up hill

Car kinda walks out on exit 4 wheel drift like not loose or push hmmmmmm

[Chico]

Stock Car Driver why don't you just help the man instead of belittleing him he asked for help not ridicule He evidently knows it's not right or he wouldn't be asking for help

[Chico]

I hope you helped him more than just telling him his rear susp I think he need a little more jmo If I were as knowledgeable as you seem to be I would gladly share the info after all w need to keep this sport growing

[Dirt Knife]

Looking at the nose of the car to cut weight down?
The bumper is speedway motors for the metric monty.
I have beefed it up a little and has saveed the car from some DNF's
and radiator replacements.

The car was 1600 ish across nose before the front hoop was put on?
I could cut the front hoop out (yet not shure if this would be right)
then the nose weight would be 830 LF 790 RF
witch would lower the overall weight to 3080 and allow me to put 150 lbs
in the trunk that would get me closer to 50% rear weight???
And only be 80 or so ## overweight for fuel burn off??

[Dirt Knife]

I don't argue just question to try and understand / learn.
This shouldnt be off the wall stuff
I know of 3 other cars at the same track that run the same suspension.
and they also are in the top 10 one of them is a track champion.
I try to copy and ask them hmmmm

some of them run blocks of bondo painted silver to thro off true weight placements
ect I cant go into the scale house and copy their ###'s

Thanks

The scale weights are true dont know how to prove this to you over the internet though.

[Dirt Knife]

Its kinda like the saying (got to run where they aint if your going to win)
If there all running 4links on the outside how are you going to get around them?
Got to run low

[Dirt Knife]

Seeing im 80 lbs over weight now put in 100 more and try it?

Or screw 80 more lbs into the left rear seeing its 20 more than the right rear??

[Dirt Knife]

I noticed in one earlier post about the left front weight.

Should I not have that much left front weight? is it wrong?

The Left front comes off the ground exiting corner for aprox 3-5 feet down straights
then settles back in?

[Dirt Knife]

will get back after this weekend
will jack in some Left rear

the 3 link like you say the top link is in the wrong place (I agree)
yet wouldnt the benifit of the p bar adjusting roll center heights
and putting bar angle in it on say a dry slick track be better than a 4 link
this is my 1st street stock on dirt
never tryed it (stock) though

[speedbuggy]

Looking at the nose of the car to cut weight down?
The bumper is speedway motors for the metric monty.
I have beefed it up a little and has saveed the car from some DNF's
and radiator replacements.

The car was 1600 ish across nose before the front hoop was put on?
I could cut the front hoop out (yet not shure if this would be right)
then the nose weight would be 830 LF 790 RF
witch would lower the overall weight to 3080 and allow me to put 150 lbs
in the trunk that would get me closer to 50% rear weight???
And only be 80 or so ## overweight for fuel burn off??

Front hoop weighs 160#? Holy smokes!!! I would think my entire front hoop from the bumper to the main cage only goes around 50#. I am wondering if you've fully gutted the A-pillars where the door hinges bolt on (gutted all the way up to the firewall). If not, you can lose a good 40# from the front there.

[Dirt Knife]

will check 2 night
front hoop made from 1.75 .095 tube

probably should go 1.5" .065

winter project will change out after the season

thanks

[Chico]

sorry if it sounded like I was trying to hack on you Stock car driver I do seem to remember that other post I just know you give out good info in a way where most can understand it esp on SS forum I also agree that when you ask for help don't argue with the advice until you know better which as you say is exactly what is happening So sorry if I seemed sarcastic
Keith

[Dirt Knife]

The heat race took 4th car was better with more Left rear bite yet still seemed to unhook down the straights.
Decided to put 200# in the back end took it to the (track scales) and adjusted 91 # Lr back into it.
Finished 9th in the feature While i was putting the lead in noticed something didnt look right with the pinion angle the springs were contorted in there perches. (while the car was jacked up)

Took another look at it today the pinion was at 3* uphill when you put the jack under the L Front frame like its comming out of the hole. it was only -1* static

So spent the day taking stockcardrivers advice and relocating the upper pick up point just got done reseting it to -4* static.

The car now weighs 3499 with 50.5% rear and 70 # left rear bite
will see how it dose next weekend.