Trans housing breaking

[superstock_53]

so this is the second time that the housing had broke on me... i have solid motor mounts up font and i have a urethane trans mount... its a metric chassis full cage from front to back and the frame is boxed in.. running the stock trans cross member... any help any one know what the solution is

[turner]

Make sure your driveshaft isnt bottoming out. I had this happen at the end of last year. Yoke was to long and kept breaking trannys.We lost driveshaft and everything though, so not sure if it would just break case and not throw a driveshaft.

[Driver88]

Is it breaking tail shaft or ears off? I have always been told if ya run solid motor mounts run solid trans mounts and thats what I do.

[SRT17]

I use solid mounts front and rear of the motor, and let the trans hang on the back.... with a stock bell housing... Never had a problem...

[superstock_53]

here is a link to my facebook and the pic of the trans https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=498903193458189&set=a.451310784884097.121559.100000155395337&type=3&theater


the drive shaft is not bottoming out.. do you think if i just run the trans mount and not bolt it to the cross member help any

[speedbuggy]

here is a link to my facebook and the pic of the trans https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=498903193458189&set=a.451310784884097.121559.100000155395337&type=3&theater


the drive shaft is not bottoming out.. do you think if i just run the trans mount and not bolt it to the cross member help any

I used to break trans just like that. Started just putting a stud up through the crossmember and only running the nut up far enough to stay on the end of the stud (basically what you are talking about doing only using a stud and nut to keep the trans from wallering all around on the crossmember). Never had a problem since.

Also, could be driveshaft out of balance.

[Driver88]

I use solid mounts front and rear of the motor, and let the trans hang on the back.... with a stock bell housing... Never had a problem...
This is what I currently do as well but before this. I had the top part of a mount bolted to trans and a spacer welded to it with a bolt thought crossmember.

[Dirt Knife]

Run urethane motor mounts and trans mount.
You have chassis flex. Unless you run mid plate??
I Never broke one except for the u joint failure on the front yoke.

Just my opinion

[dirty white boy]

here is a link to my facebook and the pic of the trans https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=498903193458189&set=a.451310784884097.121559.100000155395337&type=3&theater


the drive shaft is not bottoming out.. do you think if i just run the trans mount and not bolt it to the cross member help any

bust off rest of bell an you can buy a SFI bell housing that bolts up where pump cover dose an save the transmission

[26-62 racing]

Do what ever you can to make sure your drive line is in proper alignment and not binding any where. For either manual or automatic, check to make sure that the bell housing is centered to the center line of the crankshaft by using a dial indicator and offset dowel pins. We use front mounts. mid mounts and transmission mounts. The motor mounts are steel with the transmission mount factory rubber mount. We use the rubber mount mainly to just support the weight of the transmission. When tightening down the mounts if their is any gap between the mounts, install shims between the mounts to fill the void so not to put anything in a bind which will lead to breakage. Try for as close alignment as possible between the center line of the front of the crank, output of the tail shaft and the center of the pinion. The other post are correct on the drive shaft. Make sure the yoke is not bottoming out to the tail shaft, and the drive shaft is in proper balance. Talked to Bushore transmissions and he said that over 75% of the broken cases for automatics were from drive shaft being out of balance. Even some of the drive shaft companies were sending new factory made drive shaft out of balance.
Hope this helps. Just check everything, I have races the same power glide for years with no broken case, even after pounding the wall.

Mike Bulpitt
26B 62B
owner driver builder

[superstock_53]

well i broke another housing this time its on a powerglide cracked right buy the reverse band... with the rear end jacked up with out springs in i still have about 2ins of space between the driveshaft and housing.. i had soild motor mounts with a stock rubber mount for the trans... im going to have the driveshaft balance this week. and weld a x brace...

[dirty white boy]

drop rear end an see how much clearance you have on yoke then...if your still good on clearance then might wanta try some rear moter mounts or mid plate...

[speedbuggy]

well i broke another housing this time its on a powerglide cracked right buy the reverse band... with the rear end jacked up with out springs in i still have about 2ins of space between the driveshaft and housing.. i had soild motor mounts with a stock rubber mount for the trans... im going to have the driveshaft balance this week. and weld a x brace...

One thing I saw on here a LONG time ago was that a guy had a bent pinion gear in the rear end causing this. Might as well check that while you're at it.

[26-62 racing]

How in the world would you bend a pinion gear?

Mike

[Hurst390]

I built these struts out of chromoly...very light and I hope to be effective..
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b381/Hurst390/P1014057.jpg

[motorsports12]

i have been having the same problem - after breaking the 5th one i heard about a part (someone else mentioned it as well) it is an aluminum cast bell housing - the part is made by jw performance - not sure what tranny you are running but they make it for a turbo 350 and 400 or the powerglide which is what i run - you have to cut the bell housing off and the part is a stronger bell housing that then bolts to the pump (you have to get the bolt kit too) - so far i have run one race with no problems and running again this weekend - its supposed to be 600 times stronger than the standard case - both summit and jegs sell the part - for the powerglide the part number is 92450 and will run you about $285 with the bolt kit

[ortman18]

i had to go to a longer dowl pin years ago and it stopped them

[dirty white boy]

i have been having the same problem - after breaking the 5th one i heard about a part (someone else mentioned it as well) it is an aluminum cast bell housing - the part is made by jw performance - not sure what tranny you are running but they make it for a turbo 350 and 400 or the powerglide which is what i run - you have to cut the bell housing off and the part is a stronger bell housing that then bolts to the pump (you have to get the bolt kit too) - so far i have run one race with no problems and running again this weekend - its supposed to be 600 times stronger than the standard case - both summit and jegs sell the part - for the powerglide the part number is 92450 and will run you about $285 with the bolt kit

sure is better!! the drag strip boys turning big power been useing them for years!! its sfi rated too!!

[superstock_53]

broke another one.. i x'ed the frame. put in rear motor mounts and built one of them trans struts and still cracked the bellhousing.. so now what...

[26-62 racing]

You are very frustrated, i would be also, you could be missing something that you just don't know of. We all have to learn , sometimes the hard way, just like this problem. How about asking another good running local racer, who runs a power glide, to stop by and check out your car looking for something you have missed, or just don't know, yet. Buy him dinner and a beer. If you were closer I would stop by, just to try and figure it out, and help. Another thought send me a pm I would talk to you on the cell if you want to. Might be able to help in some way.

Mike

[Dirt Knife]

Put in urithane motor mounts and your problem will go away.

[merc123]

I have solid motor mounts and no trans mounts. Seen too many problems with trans mounts.

[dirtman45]

I saw this happen to a guy at my track. His problem was the driveshaft was too short. During the normal suspension travel it would pull out too far and get into a bind that didn't allow it to go back in.

Put it up on jackstands and see how much it pulls out.

[superstock_53]

found out the problem... the drive shaft was bottoming out at one point the u-joints flattened and put he shaft in a bind ... problem solved.. thanks everyone for there opinion it was a real mind twister

[dirty white boy]

well i broke another housing this time its on a powerglide cracked right buy the reverse band... with the rear end jacked up with out springs in i still have about 2ins of space between the driveshaft and housing.. i had soild motor mounts with a stock rubber mount for the trans... im going to have the driveshaft balance this week. and weld a x brace...

i was afraid you were checking this wrong when you posted this...glade you finally got it sorted out!!