need help

[porkchop4]

Alright well I'm in a predicament right now I'm just now getting into late models from a factory stock but the guy that was helping me just got up and left so now it's just me and my mom and I'm 15 but I have a 2000 shaw no motor no transmission no nose piece and no spares i got it on a trade for my pure stock now i was wondering how to get a base line set up what would be the best motor choice (I race at Caney Valley Speedway a bullring 1/4 mile) i know where a 383 for $5,000 what would be a good transmission choice where could i get good spares i don't mind getting used tires and grooving them but can u still do that with late model tires and what would be the best nose piece so pretty much at this point anything will help

[zeroracing]

First step is to call Shaw, they are good people and will help you get the baseline set up. Also go to their website and download the tuning sheet they have for making changes.
Be careful with any used motor, some are great deals, some are junk people are trying to unload on somebody. Look it over and make sure it is what they say it is, and what you want. There are good deals out there.

Transmission, do not get chinese race-gator junk. Stick to a quality piece like a bert, brinn or falcon. I have the falcon, have had it for many years and it has always worked good. Bert and brinn also make good quality race transmissions.

If you cannot offord a carbon fiber driveshaft then do not get a ball spline type transmission. They can be borderline deadly if something breaks and you have a steel or aluminum shaft. A long slip yoke will work fine in a late model. If you get the falcon and a slip yoke, you may have to polish the yoke to fit the bearing in the tail. I get mine from Powertrain industries in springfield, MO when I talk to them I just tell them what I have got and they pre-polish it to fit for no charge.

Keep your eye out for a good used tranmission, parts are easy to buy for any of the three I listed, and fairly simple to fix if there are any issues.

Nose piece: I have a dominator on now, i like it, MD3 is a good nose, a bit older but held up great was a ARP one I had for multiple seasons. My dominator looks better but does not hold up as well.

Tires: Until you get good buy used ones from bigger guys. Find some guys that run there weekly, or local touring guys that get new tires all the time. Often they will sell you a race old tire for a fraction of the cost. Once you get running good then you can upgrade to new. No since in burning off new tires while you just figure out whats going on.

Good luck man, 4m is a great place with some really smart people, some not so smart, but most helpful.

[porkchop4]

What does a decent open motor usually run for is $5,000 on the cheaper side or is it middle price or is that a high end price

[LMracr17x]

What does a decent open motor usually run for is $5,000 on the cheaper side or is it middle price or is that a high end price

$5,000 will get you a steel block motor that needs to be gone through, but if you're talking about an all aluminum motor, you're looking at $10,000 for one with several laps on it and up. Anything you can find for $5,000 short of a Crate will be problems waiting to happen for you.

[HuckleberryB4]

you're in a money class with what sounds like a small budget. Those don't go well together, unless you're happy just having a car on the track.

[Egoracing]

$5,000 will get you a steel block motor that needs to be gone through, but if you're talking about an all aluminum motor, you're looking at $10,000 for one with several laps on it and up. Anything you can find for $5,000 short of a Crate will be problems waiting to happen for you.

You will be HARD pressed to get any aluminum block motor for 10,000 unless you are talking about a 525 crate.

[porkchop4]

Well i just found a different track near me that runs an IMCA spec motor...how much do they usually run for

[zeke23z]

Where are u located?Spec motor can cost alot too.I would get youself a good used 604 crate motor and just worry about learning how set the car up and driving a 4 bar car is very different in feel and will take awhile to learn.

[porkchop4]

I live in Broken Arrow Oklahoma i have a track that is 30 mins south of me thats a 1/2 mile but only runs Fridays there the one with the spec motor then i have a 1/4 mile in Caney Ks thats an hour drive there the open motor and they run on Saturdays and I like the crate motor idea but also i just don't want to get mowed over by the big motors

[zeke23z]

Ive only been racing a late model for 4 years using the same crate motor for all of those.Im just now starting to understand how to make correct changes to the car and how to drive in certain track conditions.I run with the ULMA in MO and have been in the top ten in points all year.Infact finished 3rd intrack points this year.Not having to worry about a motor has allowed me to get all the seat time i can and i bet anybody else on here will tell you thats most important.Seat time seat time and then some more seat time!Best thing i ever did was go to aRacewise chassis school.Save yourself a little time on the learning curve and attend one.And just concentrate on your car and your driving.You paid your money to race just like everybody else.I agree about calling Shaw thats where i went to Racewise and they will be willing to help you no doubt.

[zeroracing]

$5,000 will get you a steel block motor that needs to be gone through, but if you're talking about an all aluminum motor, you're looking at $10,000 for one with several laps on it and up. Anything you can find for $5,000 short of a Crate will be problems waiting to happen for you.

I will disagree with part of this. For similar to the price of an outfitted 604 you can have a decent motor built. It will turn a little more HP and be as reliable. Many people just assume you must spend 10k on a non crate motor. Will a 5,000 steel motor win against open cars, no but will give you as good or better performance than a crate. With same or better reliability. Call Rick darling race engines from Marshall mo, 660-886-4003. Have seen him build good reliable budget motors for years.

He is correct though that most used motors when guys brag up parts and seem to good to be true are worn out and need rebuilt.

A good open motor will run from $15,000 (used heads and steel block) to 30,000+.

But crates are not the only answer, engine builders mistreating customers and over pricing motors is what has driven the crate movement. Some engine builders still exist that can build you as good or better quality as a 604 for the same money or less. Call Rick and get some pricing info for a budget late model motor.

[zeroracing]

Btw if your worried about your built motor and cannot focus on driving or set up its time for a new engine builder. Any can blow up, built or crate, but if your engine builder makes you worry about the motor it's time to get a new builder.

I change oil, check the valves, clean air filter and go. A crate you should replace the valve springs after a certain number of shows.

A correct built motor should be almost maintenance free.

[porkchop4]

Does ULMA only run in Missouri and and i don't know much about crate motors can u tell me more about them thanks