Dirt Late Model Cooling System Recomendation

[SaddleUpLock&Load]

If you were putting together an Open Motor Late Model on gas, what is the ideal cooling system you would recommend, start too finish. Radiator, brand? standard, dual or triple pass? Hose or aeroquip? fan size? shroud? coolant type? Not looking on ideas too cut corners or any of that, just wanting too figure the best way too keep these cool over a long feature. Thanks

[hucktyson]

Honestly if you use a fsr double pass radiator and a gm 19" high pitch 4 blade fan, the original not a knock off you will not have heating problems at all !! I dont even run a shroud and my temperature gauge drops like a rock as soon as i take the block off the radiator to get heat in the motor. If you have that fan with any decent radiator and your having heating issues i can virtually guarantee your running dangerously lean.

[SaddleUpLock&Load]

Thanks Huck.

We have the four blade and think we were running lean. Do you know which radiator you got from FSR. I looked at the list online and they have different double passes and even a triple pass.

[hucktyson]

It is the standard dirt late model 27" x 19" double pass I had to have it custom made with dual 16an inlets and a couple extra fittings on the left side but even with my other motors that use a regular single pass afco radiator I dont get over 190 even on hammer down tracks like eldora when wet turning 8300 the whole time. A big thing to remember is that mechanical fuel pumps are barely adequate to supply big dlm motors and can cause a lean condition when its hammer down. Your much better off with a dsr or watterman driven off the back of the oil pump as they provide excess fuel and need a return line. If i switch that fan for anything else it runs 215 or 220 immediately.

[sj valley dave]

Agree on the 4 blade "real" GM fan...Howe double pass, shroud, no restrictor, Adams pump, hoses, CV Products for a fuel pump and a 105* Sat afternoon, still need 2-3 rows of tape to keep engine at 195-200*

[hpmaster]

Honestly if you use a fsr double pass radiator and a gm 19" high pitch 4 blade fan, the original not a knock off you will not have heating problems at all !! I dont even run a shroud and my temperature gauge drops like a rock as soon as i take the block off the radiator to get heat in the motor. If you have that fan with any decent radiator and your having heating issues i can virtually guarantee your running dangerously lean.

I agree with the above completely. Actualy my car is the same and I have NO holes in the nose of it. After a 40 lap race in 90+ degree weather the car was at 190 and had dropped to 160 when I got back to my pit. 415 gas motor. BUT you have to block off the radiator to get it to heat up before you race.

[bob62]

Honestly if you use a fsr double pass radiator and a gm 19" high pitch 4 blade fan, the original not a knock off you will not have heating problems at all !! I dont even run a shroud and my temperature gauge drops like a rock as soon as i take the block off the radiator to get heat in the motor. If you have that fan with any decent radiator and your having heating issues i can virtually guarantee your running dangerously lean.

How close does the fan blades get to your steering rack, looks tight when you fit a shroud aswell.

[hucktyson]

How close does the fan blades get to your steering rack, looks tight when you fit a shroud aswell.

Theres about 3/4" between the lines on the rack and the fan blade, I removed the shroud because it wouldnt run any more than 165 with the shroud. Its incredible how much air those fan blades move. I laugh everytime I see someone over heating, everytime I see all of this bull(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) ducting and shrouding and a small fan lol lol. Ive been told by many top engine builders and carb builders that even the cv billet mechanical pumps are barely adequate for large ci dlm engines when running hammer down conditions and most failures are due to running out of fuel and burning pistons. The adivse is out there if people chooses to not heed that adivce its their fault. Just like checking the timing with the msd polarity revered just to make (not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word)(not a nice word) sure the polarity is correct. Those big name engine builders know what they are doing and most failures are user error such as low oil, reversed polarity/ incorrect timing, running lean, junk fuel, junk oil, not checking valve lash and most of all over reving !!

[grt74]

go to stewart water pumps web site problem solved with no bs,had a problem with a crate engine car (harder to keep cool than a super because the engine is working so hard)and also if egoracing is reading this thanks again,thats where i got the info,if your running lean thats another problem altogether,jetting or fuel pump,we use a belt driven fuel pump with no problems because it keeps a constant pressure all the time,unlike a standard fuel pump

[50j]

Agree on the 4 blade "real" GM fan...Howe double pass, shroud, no restrictor, Adams pump, hoses, CV Products for a fuel pump and a 105* Sat afternoon, still need 2-3 rows of tape to keep engine at 195-200*

Same fan and radiator set up. Works fine.

[sj valley dave]

We run the 18" fan and there over an inch between the lines and fan...As far as pumps go we got the engine that the builder put the CV Products pump on it..I think it has the green spring/diaphragm combo in it..120 gph that they rate up to 1200 hp...You have to use a regulator with it...But they are pricey Over $400..The only hammer down track we have is only a 3/8 mile.. we've never seen any signs of going lean at all..