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rocketchassis00
10-24-2012, 05:35 PM
I have a 2006 rocket black spindle 1 3/4" frame. Track is semi tacky in practice and qualifying and starts blowing dust in the race. Running Spec 12 AR. Car is good in practice and qualifying but in the race the car just has no forward drive center off when it dries out (has plenty of drive in pract and qual). Car gets in good and rotates good just lacking drive.
Lf-600 Rf-375
Lr-200 14" RR-250
5th coil afco progressive preloaded 1/2" and 36"
4bar locations
Lt- top Rt-middle
Lb- 3rd from bottom Rb starts in middle and move to bottom for race
J-bar 9" on frame
wheel base start and 1/8" back and move forward for main
bite- scale at 125 and race about 145
left percentage 54.1
rear 54.8
we have checked everything on car from birdcages, rebuilt brake calibers, hymes, spindles, ball joints, serviced ball spline and we just cant get no traction. Steel block with 646 hp
scaled with 20 gallons.
thanks in advance for any help offered!

Matt49
10-24-2012, 06:23 PM
I would start by lowering the bottom left bar on the frame.

swrracing99
10-24-2012, 06:32 PM
Check your pm

jedclampit
10-24-2012, 07:35 PM
Well, I'd take that progressive spring, give it to you worst enemy ,and tell them how great it has been for generating Huge amounts of forward bite for you!
Replace it with a 300 @ 38" out, 1/4 inch preload.
See what you got.



Some things that you may consider trying individually.



removing some/all rebound from rf shock if adjustable and hi rebound valving by design
swap rear springs(some times key depending on driver)
add more rf spring,

You may want to consider a baseline setup that favors forward bite over side bite.

Is you car hiked up in the lr when it spins the tires or flat?
I am not familiar with these tires, are they a narrow modified car type tire?

fastcar
10-24-2012, 07:56 PM
I'm on the same chassis and motor combo with Wrs 55's. My setup is pretty close to yours but I have my j-bar at 9 3/4 and race with about 210 bite. Also I go down to a 325 on the right front in the slick and 300 in the super slick

7uptruckracer
10-25-2012, 10:37 AM
Like was already said ditch the progressive spring go with something that will be more consistent like he said maybe a 300 at 38 or move it closer and run like a 350. Sounds like you car is good other then in the slick so I wouldn't change to much elsewhere. What are your shocks? Going softer on the RF and pinning it might hurt your drive worse which is why you see them adding all that bite. the spec 12 is mighty soft for the dry are you going to like an AR 38 or harder and groove and sipe it. Maybe look at dropping the LUB on the bird cage if you need it to index faster or if your on a chain how much droop are you at? try 13 3/4 in the slick.

rocketchassis00
10-27-2012, 07:13 AM
The track drys out but really don't wear tires too bad, very rarely does it wear a new 12 all the way down. We were running a 300 at 36" and was searching more traction that is why we gave progressive spring a chance, I have always been willing to try something that might make the car better but guess this is one that needs to be tossed. Thanks for all the input.

huntingrip
11-02-2012, 08:33 AM
you can probably raise your LR shock in front mount on the birdcage,[shorten the drop] or put an extension on it, and find a lil something..

7uptruckracer
11-02-2012, 10:36 AM
Are you run the short LR bar? you can always index the BC or make it index quicker by changing your rod position on the BC. Try adding more Rear weight when it slicks off or tweaking or LR shocks or RF like was mentioned to much RF rebound will kill your drive and too soft a RF will as well.