.810 vs 1.25 rotors

[dfhotlm33c]

What do DLMs really need? Going to get some lightweight drilled and/or scalloped rotors. Wondering what would make someone decide to run the different thickness rotors!

[dfhotlm33c]

and...does reducing the weight at each wheel really make a significant difference, or is it for just shaving minute amounts of time off? If we go LW hubs and rotors, saving about 7 lbs per corner, is that noticeable or is my money better spent elsewhere?

[Rayburnt1]

Open engine, not really. Spec engine, maybe. Crate engine, probably. Guys I've known that have open engines and longer races usually run big calipers and heavy rotors. We run a spec engine with mag hubs and drilled 1.25 rotors. The holes crack slightly between the drilled holes, and we replaced two of them during the season. We did run 1.25 scalloped rotors but those really cracked and one of our competitors had one shatter and locked the wheel up and really wrecked bad. As far as cost,weight, reliability, we have had the best luck with the 1.25 drilled.

[dfhotlm33c]

We are a 550 hp car running against 800 hp open cars on a track that requires moderate braking. WE never run more than 25 laps. We are currently running a Saginaw 3 speed and old 8 bolt heavy hubs and standard, 10 lb rotors. We are finally putting in a Brinn transmission, and considering going LW on hubs and rotors. So, thanks for the information...hope that helps you help me make a decision!

[lovinlatemodels]

We always run 1.25 rotors in the front that are drilled for cooling and braking power. In the rear we always stayed with 1/4 thick steel rotors drilled to keep the rotating weight down due to also having a limited horsepower motor. But we also ran different size calipers on the front and rear to work the braking and handling difference.