which has better drive

[95rayburn]

Was wondering if a traction shock behind LR on a rayburn or a stacked spring setup like the one afco offers for the LR or RF would give me more forward drive of the corners

[restad4r]

Your talking about 3 different things. The stacked spring on the lr is to be able to run a softer spring without buckling it. The stacked spring on the rf is a dual stage setup with a lockout, both are very different, and both have been discussed in great detail on this board. Just do a search and you'll find what you need. As far as the traction shock goes, it is usually on the lr in front of the birdcage or on a clamp and is usually from a 3-6 comp and 0 rebound.

My 2 cents
Ant

[Matt49]

Let's be clear on terminology. "Stacked spring" is just that...two springs stacked on top of one another to make a softer spring rate than you could with a single spring that would easily bow and cause shock interference. The formula for stack spring rate is (AxB)/(A+B) and it doesn't matter what the spring lengths are unless one of them begins to coil bind. Stack spring setups are mostly found on the LR of 4-bar cars. It can (as with any softer LR) assist with drive off the corner because a softer LR spring allows the car to climb the bars faster thereby generating more dynamic wedge. This is contrary to what is in a lot of setup sheets and books but believe me (and others can attest to this) it works.

Back to terminology..."dual-stage spring" is when you stack two springs but put a slider and stop nut between them so that it acts like a stacked spring until the stop nut hits and then you are getting just one spring at work. This is used on the RF and can also give you more drive off the corner if setup properly. The problem with running a softer RF is that it takes away from dynamic wedge and takes drive out of the car on corner exit. Using the dual-stage deal on the RF you can essentially be on a soft spring on entry and a stiff spring on exit. This is NOT something you just throw on the car and it immediately works. It takes some tuning with the jam nut and shock settings to get it to work right and typically works best on very smooth race tracks.

Dual-stage spring on the LR is not unheard of. I've never tried it myself but the ideas is that you're going to the stiffer spring at JUST below LR ride height to prevent the car from slamming down suddenly on corner entry with a super soft LR. Afco has a write-up about it in one of their catalogs. This could work on a swing-arm car. I see a great many swing arm cars that just completely pancake on corner entry and that can't be easy to drive. A dual-stage LR might help this some.


But if you're looking for more forward drive with a swing arm car I wouldn't put anything behind the LR birdcage.

I'd start with adding bite or adding rear weight and if that didn't help then start working with springs.

[catgo22]

We tried a LR traction shock and it did not make our car faster. A hi compression shock on the LR swingarm worked best by itself. We tried two different stacked spring shocks on the RF. The one we bought from Genesis seemed to work best. We only put it on the RF for the dash/feature in the slick. About 3/4 inch travel before it hit the collar and went completely on the larger spring. It was too mushy in the tack. We still could never get the car to stay stuck in the slick like some of the bar cars but the stacked RF was definitely better. Good luck

[95rayburn]

Thank all u for ur advice I don't know how im going to attack this problem since I've only been in a lm for two years and I don't know much about how to make the right adjustments. My problem is when the track slicks off here in Michigan its like driving on ice

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

The traction shock will make your entry problems (typical Rayburn problem) much worse.

[Matt49]

Thank all u for ur advice I don't know how im going to attack this problem since I've only been in a lm for two years and I don't know much about how to make the right adjustments. My problem is when the track slicks off here in Michigan its like driving on ice

That is not a problem unique to you or Michigan :-)

One of the first things you have to do in slick conditions is adjust your driving style. Over charging the corner and getting your car sideways on a slick track will kill almost any chance you have at decent forward drive regardless of setup. Then nice and easy getting back into the gas. Once you start the tires spinning its hard to calm it down without setting the car back down. It's a feel thing that comes with seat time. I wish I could say I had it mastered. It's easier said than done.

[95rayburn]

Would a stiffer RF spring help or would going from 621 to a 583 work?

[F22 RAPTOR]

Would a stiffer RF spring help or would going from 621 to a 583 work?

Need more setup info to even think about helping, there are just too many variables.