What ? Two brake pedals

[MQueen]

How about a little input on this. I am going to add another pedal and master cylinder and only hook it to the left rear caliper so I can have more control over this wheel. Left will be on a floater right is on the tube. I have been playing with trail braking but tend to run alot of front brake bias which doesnt seem to mix very well.

[zeroracing]

A few thoughts.

1. Your not trail braking correctly if your still using a ton of front brake, the car should get much tighter as you trail brake. Typically you run excessive front brake to tighten the car up.

2. If you brake on the LR, you will slow the RR wheel also. They are directly hooked together if you run a locked rear end, yes the LR will tranmist force through the floater bar, but it will still brake the RR through the axle itself, similar to the way a clamped RR will anyways. It would be like using an in-board brake set up off a sprint car for the RR. So not really much to be gained IMO. Now if the rearend is not locked you are making a more true turning brake.

3. Are you sure footed enough... you have one foot for the gas and one for the two brakes... Yes some guys do the three pedal trick on asphalt but not many dirt racers would, mainly no need, but a late model is a very fast reacting car, using a three pedal combo would be challenging. Tony Kannan made a comment to how fast they react. If you plan to use two feet to brake, your not trail braking if your not on the gas and brake at same time.

4. Why not a hand one for the LR, similar to more of a handbrake in rally cars, that would be much easier to sort out.

Overall I think it has little to no gain, I think it would cause huge inconsistancy issues.

[twisterf5]

i have had rotters come apart. when the right broke still was racing only because part was stuck in the caliper but mad it extremely tight. so i would think the left would make it loose. don't think it would work but good luck never no till you try.

[merc123]

If you ever forget which way your brake adjuster goes, turn it all the way one way. Then bury it off in the corner. Stomp the brake. If you spin out it's on the back. If you slam into the outside wall it's on the front. Don't actually try that...

Seems like you would burn up the brake pads instead of accomplishing what you want. Using say just the LR brake still brakes the whole rear (locked rear), just with half the "stopping" power.

I would say leave the one pedal and just use the floater to get what you want.

On a side note, I did have a RR brake rotor break off during a feature race. I had to use 3-wheel brakes to make the car turn. I didn't know it was a brake rotor until I got home. Thought it was a bad handling problem.

[Egoracing]

On a side note, I did have a RR brake rotor break off during a feature race. I had to use 3-wheel brakes to make the car turn. I didn't know it was a brake rotor until I got home. Thought it was a bad handling problem.

That is correct, You lost rear stopping power and the contact patches of both tires were winning over the caliper. Just like turning the balance bar all the way to the front.

[Dirt2727]

[QUOTE=MQueen;1636776]How about a little input on this. I am going to add another pedal and master cylinder and only hook it to the left rear caliper so I can have more control over this wheel. Left will be on a floater right is on the tube. I have been playing with trail braking but tend to run alot of front brake bias which doesnt seem to mix very well.[/Q


Just make a right rear shutoff.

[MQueen]

Thanks for the input maybe I need to look at this a little harder before I try it.