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7uptruckracer
04-24-2013, 10:48 AM
Heavy Track car is tight on entry have to run three wheel brake. Looking for advice on how I can change the rear spring configuration (coilovers both on front) to help as well as maybe shock valving i'm 4-6 LF 3-7 RF 4-4 LR 3-3 RR It a 3 link on j bar with a solid link (do have spring loaded as well)
can i run more compression on the LR to hold Rear Steer in it or will it hurt more then it helps? Is the solid link not wrapping hurting me? its Low HP so I can't afford to absorb much accel torque

Towers21
04-24-2013, 08:41 PM
I would start out fairly simple. Move wheel offset. Either RR out or LR in or both if bad tight and work with wedge. Move the wheels or wheel and get a base line then try X- amount of bite out of it for heats and then maybe look into some other scenarios. I wouldnt chase shocks till you were closer. Hope it helps. Where are you running?

Dirt Knife
04-24-2013, 10:28 PM
What are your front end settings?
bottoming out
are you running stiffer LF than RF spring like 750 LF and 700RF
maybe your front shocks are too heavy for your springs?
Try a pair of 5's up front no split
or put your LF on the RF and run a straight 5 on the LF

Just some thoughts

junebug
04-25-2013, 01:05 AM
With rr spring in front car shouldn't be tight on entry becuz your unloading rr...makes me think u have a roll steer issue...id raise the rr bar up if u can

7uptruckracer
04-25-2013, 08:17 AM
I'm thinking rear steer as well I didn't get to specific on springs because its a pro 4 Mod on coilovers just running by some principals to help me figure it out. Its still a three link rear on 17" trailing arms. I'm running 6* LR angle and about 5* RR angle which i think is the issue. I have to be careful about rear steer with my trans and yoke because its not an aftermarket with a long output shaft. I'm 130 bite 150 RR 200 LR both in front on coilevers 23* top link in top hole on rear on a afco torque link with a 3700# brake spring and a 1200 accel spring. 300 LF 375 RF 54% LS weight and 50% rear I just converted it to jar bar from 36" rear panhard bar. Car was close at the end of the year on three wheel brake. I think I need to start around 18* LR Bar and 10-15 on the RR. Should I run a high compression LR to keep rear steer in it and not let it set down?

junebug
04-25-2013, 08:30 AM
I would definitely say u need more left side angle..i think 6• on the rr is prolly pretty close id go bout 17-20 lr and 6 rr if u can get that much in lr

Dirt Knife
04-25-2013, 08:53 AM
By moving your panhard bar to the front of the pinion
going into the corner it is now falling

last year it was behind the rear end rising going in

so for a tight condition going in I would say
raise the J bar on the pinion 1/2"

If you were close last year this will get you to where you were

7uptruckracer
04-25-2013, 09:04 AM
Last year was a 36" behind the housing LS AXLE Mount and RIGHT side Frame Asphalt style :) So chassis didn't hike....it was a pain but I finally got it to handle pretty good on three wheel brake enough to be running up front just need the extra..... changes. Why not more RR angle I've seen old mod three links on 15" bars run 10-15 and I'm on longer bars.

7uptruckracer
04-25-2013, 09:14 AM
Since last year I've also dropped the front roll center from 3.88 high to 2.50 High and changed my RF camber curve from losing a fair amount of camber through dive and roll at -3.5 camber on the RF to -5 static and i actually get back to about -5 after dive and roll going from a 9" arm to a 7.5 in arm and its a slugged arm so I don't get much caster change. bump is around .50 at 2'. LF I was around 2* camber and have gone to 4* All since last year So this all should help entry! What is everyone opinion on Solid vs. a moving torque absorber as it pertains to my issues I know axle wrap is non existent with a solid link.

powerslide
04-25-2013, 02:10 PM
how much trail are you running? Maybe just try rolling the RR back a couple turns. Might try running the RR spring on top i felt like it helped carry momentum more so than rr spring in front. But try pushing the RR back a 1/4in and see if that cures any of it

oldtrackchamp4x
04-25-2013, 02:47 PM
In your post you said last year you were running up front, but needed a little extra. Not a three link guy, but you made numerous changes to car when , in my opinion, the car was very close on setup last year. Might be easier to make car better by going back to what you had last year and just make small changes from there. As always. JMO.

7uptruckracer
04-25-2013, 03:18 PM
It was running second but having to run 3 wheel brake and the manner I had to drive it in wasn't really ideal. I'm really leaning to Roll steer with that old bar being so long all you were really relying on was the RR bar angle and coilover for any rear steer the LR didn't move at all, It was really an asphalt style rear suspension setup

junebug
04-26-2013, 01:01 AM
It was running second but having to run 3 wheel brake and the manner I had to drive it in wasn't really ideal. I'm really leaning to Roll steer with that old bar being so long all you were really relying on was the RR bar angle and coilover for any rear steer the LR didn't move at all, It was really an asphalt style rear suspension setup

how much rr travel are u getting now...if your rr bar is really flat at ride height its probably going past center and taking steer out of the car on entry...i would at least get it steep enough so it never goes below 0•

7uptruckracer
04-26-2013, 07:57 AM
I typoed its a 18" c-c bar I get about 3" travel I've taken the spring off and it ends up just about level never below but my thinking is with such a long bar I might not have enough static angle and I run my RR back about a 1/2" of trail. What are the thoughts on solid pull bar won't the rear end not wrapping down as far as the RR shock is concerned not let it unload but the trade off is one thats spring on Decel makes it tighter if you absorb the rear end unloading.......it might all be solved when the Jbar and a car that actually rolls up the LR on entry, just trying to get it as close as possible before it gets there

junebug
04-26-2013, 08:16 AM
I thk solid pullbar is ok...idk if u could get away with rr in front if u didnt have it that way...i think possibly more rr compression or RF rebound...either one holds steer in the car better on entry

7uptruckracer
04-26-2013, 08:42 AM
Yeah I already had RR up front on it. I've thought about the RF rebound, I know its a double edged sword form what I might lose in dynamic LS due to it holding more weight on the RF on entry I might gain with it holding rear steer in. The only reason I am thinking about the Solid bar is the spring loaded one I might be allowing the rear end to unload to much on entry making it tight. With the low Hp I can really use a solid for exit to get all the power to the ground so maybe some sorta accel decell system that would allow me to have the best of both....My DLM is so much simpler lol

7uptruckracer
04-29-2013, 07:04 AM
Less Left side and less bite made it way worse on entry. That would make the car tight because your taking weight off the LR to get it in. Its got around 275hp.