Electrical problem help needed.

[Doug_Guilds]

2.3 Ford running a TFI distributor. The car was parked last sson and not touched all winter, when we tried to fire the car we got no fire out of the Dis. We changed the distributor, and module and still have no fir. I do have 12 volts going through the TFI plug itself. I tried a cap, rotor, and plug wires I was running on another car to no avail. Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

[mustang99]

ground the black wire coming out of the plug,,u are not getting any ground

[Doug_Guilds]

It was a ground problem, thanks for the idea. It wasn't making contact even though it was hooked up.

[Doug_Guilds]

Well turns out that did not fix the problem. Went out to fire the car when my friend came to get it and it didn't fire. No spark. We changed wire terminations ran a couple new wires and still no spark. Changed to a coil I know works and it fired the plug. Switched out to another coil and no fire. Back to working coil, no fire. The distributor and module are new but are from Autozone. I have read lots of people having problems with auto parts modules/distributors. Would that cause a fire then no fire problem or could it just be the plug in at the module?

[car62]

replace ignition switch

[return to dirt]

check all your powers and grounds. load test them. sounds like a bad connection somewhere.

olin

[84Dave]

Be careful of the coil you use with the TFI(Totally F****d Ignition....... IMHO!). If the module input resistance/impedance is 2 ohms, and you tie in a coil with .5 ohm primary resistance/impedance, the performance degradation of the mismatch can be surprising/disappointing. If you know anyone that still uses a distributor machine/'scope for testing, you'll note the amplitude of the spark output can vary considerably depending on the coils/mismatch involved/used. OR....... simply reduce the plug gap to about .020" on the engine & see if the engine will fire. If it does, more than likely you have a degraded spark output to the plugs. AND....... something I discovered with the use of highly lubed ARP studs/washers/nuts in the head. The head/plugs can be somewhat electrically isolated from block ground. I ALWAYS use a #10 'jumper' wire between the back of the head(s) & the back of the block. Even with a V-8. Problem solved! -Dave-