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View Full Version : Moving pull bar to left on a 3-link



speedbuggy
07-23-2013, 01:46 PM
What would moving the pullbar towards the LR on top of the rearend housing do to handling? I am running a 3-link with a progressive spring pullbar.

My thinking is that it would tighten the car all the way around because it would lift weight off the LR off the gas and put weight on the LR on the gas.

Dirtrunner35
07-24-2013, 07:31 AM
Are you trying to get more drive off of the turn ?

speedbuggy
07-24-2013, 08:57 AM
Are you trying to get more drive off of the turn ?

yes...the car is just loose overall. I think part of it has to do with my turn entry though. I'm probably cutting the wheel too far to the left on entry. Then the rear breaks loose and I never really get traction again. If I let off to let the rear totally get planted in the middle and then get back on the gas, the car pushes BAD. I was told to drive it in, hang the rear out, and then keep it hung out around the turn. This may not be the best idea. I'm starting to think it's one of those deals where I break traction going in, and then the tires never get traction again through to whole turn.

Probably should just work on my driving a little more. This will be only my fourth time in the mod (all this year) and it is a brand new car. Drove pure stock the last nine years. I want to try driving in a little straighter this weekend and see if that helps.

Dirtrunner35
07-24-2013, 09:59 AM
I was told to drive it in, hang the rear out, and then keep it hung out around the turn, He is kinda correct. Without knowing anything about your car, it could just be you. Watch the fast guys and learn how they drive and that may help you, when they turn, let off the gas if they do, and where they start to turn and get back on the gas. If you had a video cam you could have someone tape you and some other guys to see other driving styles, everyone style is different but it might get you some pointers

racinjj
07-24-2013, 10:32 AM
Moving the pull bar to the left will just make your on throttle push worse. I am thinking its a handling and driving issue.

MM90
07-24-2013, 11:23 AM
Sounds like you have a push/loose condition. Make some changes to loosen up your entry and I bet it will help you through the rest of the corner. An easy way that worked for my car was to up the bite 5-10lbs at a time.

speedbuggy
07-24-2013, 11:31 AM
We are re-setting the car up tomorrow night. I can have some numbers to post after that. The car is a Lightning copy.

Most of the guys up front are running 4-bar cars and they keep them on the bars all the way around the track. He11, it's Florence. Most of you know how that track is and how the mods run. If you don't, there's all kinds of video of Florence mods to watch.

I just got a GoPro camera this week and am going to try to have it hooked up this weekend so then I will at least have some in car shots from my car. I don't show up in any of the Florence videos because I am too far back in the field! Ha! I am the 45 car.

Been having trouble with my eyes this year and have not gotten to race much.

racinjj
07-24-2013, 11:45 AM
If you setup your 3 link correctly you can keep it up on the bars just like a 4 link. A lot of 3 link issues I see are caused when the car falls down under braking which will make the car dart around. Then when the throttle is applied it jumps up and gets tight, you can do a lot with your shocks and bar angle to keep the car more consistent.

speedbuggy
07-24-2013, 03:25 PM
If you setup your 3 link correctly you can keep it up on the bars just like a 4 link. A lot of 3 link issues I see are caused when the car falls down under braking which will make the car dart around. Then when the throttle is applied it jumps up and gets tight, you can do a lot with your shocks and bar angle to keep the car more consistent.

I don't think, right now, the car gets on the bars at all. Doesn't feel like it. Lightning setup sheet suggests starting out with both lower bars level to the ground.

twisterf5
07-24-2013, 03:38 PM
I don't think, right now, the car gets on the bars at all. Doesn't feel like it. Lightning setup sheet suggests starting out with both lower bars level to the ground.
that i would not do the left bar would not be level with body roll even if you are off the gas. we always ran right level and left 15 up hill. you could be putting the car in a bind like that. and would think that you would loose roll steer and drive. you need both. roll steer to help you rotate though the corner and drive to get you off.

speedbuggy
07-26-2013, 10:12 AM
Got the car set up last night.

Got the car set up last night.

Total weight: 2500
LF – 548 RF – 532
LR – 795 RR – 625

Left% - 53.7
Rear% - 56.8
Cross% - 53.1
Bite – 170#

LF Camber/Caster - +1.5/+2.75
RF Camber/Caster - -5/+6
Toe – 3/8 out
Both rear bars level to ground

Whaddaya think? Push like a dump truck??? We'll see tomorrow. Left side is a little heavier than I want, but I would have to move the battery over and I don't think I'll have time to build a new box and get it mounted, etc by tomorrow with everything else I have to do.

racinjj
07-26-2013, 10:29 AM
I would recommend getting your rear weight down to at most 55% and bite down to 80lbs. Move the left bar to 15-20deg and right bar to 5-10deg. I think right now with your bars level you may be getting roll understeer with the left side not hiking and the right side compressing. What I mean is when the car rolls in the turn your right rear is being pulled ahead which would be like leading the right rear. That will make the car really tight.

speedbuggy
07-26-2013, 10:52 AM
I would recommend getting your rear weight down to at most 55% and bite down to 80lbs. Move the left bar to 15-20deg and right bar to 5-10deg. I think right now with your bars level you may be getting roll understeer with the left side not hiking and the right side compressing. What I mean is when the car rolls in the turn your right rear is being pulled ahead which would be like leading the right rear. That will make the car really tight.

Yeah, I agree that there ain't much rollsteer there...and it would be tough for the left side to hike up. I'm going to have to put some different mounts on the LR before I'll be able to get any angle in the bar. Right now, the mount that's on there only has two holes. I bet 5°-7° is the most you could get in it right now without raising the ride height to some ridiculous level.

Just gonna have to "run what I brung" tomorrow...

speedbuggy
07-29-2013, 08:17 AM
Well... just to wrap this thread up.

The car handled pretty well. Before going to the track, I moved the LR to have as much angle as I could get (maybe 10°). Ended up taking 3 rounds of bite out of the LR to help tighten entry and loosen on-throttle. Car was still a little tight from center out but very driveable. If I was going to adjust on it some more, first I would drop the RR trailing arm down to get some angle in it, and, if that didn't fix the tight on-throttle, maybe take a little more bite out of it.

Car basically got trashed in the feature. On about lap 15, my LR trailing arm mount broke (was bent from contact in heat) and I spun out in turn 1. The leader came around the turn, never lifted, (I guess he didn't see the yellow) and pretty much demolished the entire front of the car.

I doubt that I'll have it out anymore this year. It's gonna be expensive to fix and I ain't got the cash right now.