PDA

View Full Version : Ball joints?



jonnywhoop52
07-24-2013, 01:35 PM
Just wondering what some of the mod guys are running for ball joints. Anyone running the QA1's? Are they worth the money? I think this is causing some of our drive issues. Just looking for some opinions.

powerslide
07-24-2013, 01:55 PM
I dont think you are getting beat by balljoints...

MM90
07-24-2013, 03:57 PM
I have the QA1 ball joints on my car and really like them. If you take the shocks off my car the front end moves really free. But also agree with the above statement that ball joints won't make you a winner.

Racer96m
07-24-2013, 08:39 PM
I run the Howe screw in ball joints. I like that you can replace the studs and take them apart and clean and lube them. Being able to set the preload is nice also, they arent cheep, but very nice piece.

Dave

jonnywhoop52
07-26-2013, 03:41 PM
I just was wondering because I'm not sure if all the weight is getting transferred to the RF because the MOOG ones we run I think are binding, I never knew what we were running until I had to put a new LF on. I just heard/read that the QA1's don't bind and are rebuildable

LFMotorsports
07-26-2013, 10:52 PM
If you don't have a travel indicator on the RF, use a zip tie on the shaft. That will tell you if you are transferring weight up there. Unless a rough track, then most bets are off.

BigBlueFord
07-27-2013, 07:45 AM
It's hard to find a better balljoint than Howe. Plus they're rebuild-able and you can get different length studs to help getting your front roll-center set correctly without having to ream spindles.

Lizardracing
07-27-2013, 02:45 PM
QA1's have the same advantages.

The best thing to do is pull out the spring and see move the entire assembly up and down and back and forth by hand to see what runs out of travel first. My car is limited by the control arm hitting the frame for example.

HEAVY DUTY
07-27-2013, 03:11 PM
Low friction balljoints are only gonna help if the rest of the car is 100%. If your tires, motor, setup, shock package and most importantly driver isn't all working right, balljoints are throwing money away. The only reason to run them over a stock one is if the balljoint studs are different length and the car was designed around them. Low friction joints sure cant hurt, but you will never find an advantage on a stopwatch. Make sure you aren't running in to a travel problem with your stock balljoints. As a chassis builder, I see people throw money away trying to make up for the lack of maintanence or experience, and go broke. They will buy any trick of the day gadget, or part that is supposed to be better than what they had, strictly because so and so has one and won, or some slick marketing guru made them think they needed it. Do you know Scott Bloomquist wont put bearing birdcage on a car? Most of the time you are better off getting 100% out of what you have than throwing money at it. If a part needs replaced or is wrong for the application, then by all means, by the right one.

JR. MECHANIC
07-29-2013, 10:41 AM
What he said ^^^^

jonnywhoop52
07-30-2013, 07:13 PM
I think we finally got everything figured out setup wise, we found our bind, went through everything mechanical and went to hit the track this weekend and the ignition coil, MSD, and distributor cap decided not to show up and race. So if it's not one thing it's another, but we got it figured out and should be good to go this Saturday at Waynesfield for the Hewitt Classic