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View Full Version : ford 2300 plug gap on methanol



14flower
07-31-2013, 04:22 PM
running the stock tfi and blaster 2 coil 500 carb methanol what plug gap are you guys running ive had them at .030 and it breaks up at higher rpm its a 2.3 5.2 kb bottom end dport head big valve bowl blended efi intake 2" open adapter runing 134 136 jet 4.0 pv 40 squiter and white cam 30cc pump btw i have to turn the idel screws in til there 3/4 turn out or else it has A MISSaround 2500 on up

Foghorn
08-01-2013, 02:35 PM
Try .023-.025 on the plugs. You also need much larger jets than you would use with gasoline.

84Dave
08-01-2013, 03:35 PM
And 'J-gap' the spark plugs. The J-gap will provide a better initial burn to the meth, when ignited.
-Dave-

let-r-eat
08-01-2013, 07:47 PM
Sounds to me like the throttle plates need drilled or something and the transfer slot is too exposed. Does screwing the idle screws all the way in kill the engine?

14flower
08-02-2013, 03:01 PM
plugs are ar474 or 473 forgot to post that when i had the 474 which are coldest ar plug they where at .025 and ran good just still had a little break. like i posted im running 134-136 jets ovously thats big then on gas. and its a c and s carb pretty sure he has the plates with big enough wholes. put if i screw one all the way in no if both then yes

14flower
08-04-2013, 02:49 PM
ran the car friday with .025 plug gap runs great til u go past a little over 1/2 throttle then breaks up again cant get it to warm up past 160 runing on the track and then got a flat car warmed up toi 180 in the pits and ran better there but it cooled down to 160 again during racing. could it be the wrong pv in it ? and why wont this baterd warm up use to run 180-200 befoe

14flower
08-04-2013, 02:51 PM
also forgot to say went from 134-136 up to 136-138 and seem to help a bit then went up to 138-140 for the main and got worse should i just lean it out to see if itll build heat ?

let-r-eat
08-04-2013, 09:48 PM
NO. Not unless you like rebuilding engines.Compression numbers on each cylinder?Most alky stuff is 140-144 on jet size. Did C^S build the carb for a 4 cylinder or is it a v8 carb?You will need to use an oil heater and tape or go to a electric fan with an on/off switch. Watch oil temps.How milky is your oil after race?Are you sure you have adequate fuel supply? Pressure?

14flower
08-04-2013, 10:17 PM
yes its a 4banger carb and he sent us carb with those jets built for the engine its on. and we dont use a oil cooler or temp gauge i know its hot engone cause to filter is to hot to hold ur hand on. not milky at all. yes 7 psi and clean the pump and filter every race. was thinking of going with eletric fan but it use to run warmer though

14flower
08-04-2013, 10:18 PM
150 with the big cam and 250 with are smaller one

return to dirt
08-05-2013, 01:16 AM
jared, the last time you ran at orland it sounded like pullover. mine was doing that until i switched back to the intake i ran last year.

olin

14flower
08-14-2013, 10:51 PM
well once we installed a thermostat and got the engine temp up to 180 we found that we where over jeted got some smaller 128-130 jets and now runs fine with just a light light darkish cream color thats almost white on the plugs guess the intake we changed too befor this started happening doesnt flow as much air.

14flower
08-14-2013, 10:55 PM
for got to add also had to remove the power valve.