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19xmasters
08-13-2013, 09:27 AM
Just as the title says our car will not get on the bars off the corner and has no drive at all. Gen-x car LF 450, RF 350 on 2" bump, LRR 225, running LRF dummy, RR 250, 350 fifth coil at 33" adjuster just touching spring, shocks are afco m2's J bar is 8" on frame and center of pinion, 54.5 left, 53.2 rear, 175 lbs bite, steelhead 358 engine with 550 - 600 hp, we are on a hard tire rule and usually run Racer 56's, track is 1/3 mile has some banking and usually blows dust at feature time. Good bit of bar angle in the upper rods, left lower is 3 holes up, right lower is 3rd hole from top, left rods have been shortened 1/4".

dfhotlm33c
08-13-2013, 10:34 AM
Possibilities:

First, make sure no binds in any heims, shocks, etc. Jack car up by frame at LR and make sure you have enough drop. Check to make sure driveshaft isn't bottoming out.

Try chain instead of dummy. Or, gas pop up shock on LRF instead of dummy. That dummy still provides a bit of resistance. What are your shock numbers?

Try lower LR spring? 200? You would have to preload spring more to get the LR bite you have. Provides a bit more "pop-up" energy.

Put a bit of preload in 5th coil? This is a minor change, but may help a bit. 1 1/4 turns maybe?

Could it be that you are actually loose in and fighting the car from tailing out through the corner and have used up your tires' capabilities before the exit? Try maybe 500 LF to tighten entry. Maybe lower bite to 100 or so?

Just ideas....

19xmasters
08-13-2013, 11:01 AM
I am not sure of actual numbers on shocks but they are double adjustable and the right front is high rebound, I replaced all the heims on the 4 bar rods to eliminate that, the birdcages are nylon and have some play but they seem to rotate free. Measured from the left rear wheel cut out I have 5.5" of up travel. I took the driveshaft off the transmission to make sure the tailshaft moved freely and it did. I had a 500 LF spring in for several races and dropped to 450 to try to free entry.Car has no drive start to finish new or old tires..... It looks like a leaf spring car coming off the corner.

dfhotlm33c
08-13-2013, 11:59 AM
Ok..

Make sure LR shock is turned to highest compression available (should be top knob), and lowest rebound available (bottom knob).

To determine LR drop...

Leave everything hooked up, including driveshaft. Now, measure from top of axle tube to bottom of frame rail directly above. This is baseline measurement for ride height. Make sure al of your other ride heights, tire pressures, etc are good. No, jack up the car by the frame rail just in front of the LR tire. Do this until the LR tire just comes off of the ground. It should take some pumping. Now, measure the distance from the axle tube to the frame rail. This should be number 3-5" bigger than your original number. Subtract. This gives you your LR drop. At this point, look at the driveshaft where it enters the transmission and make sure it isn't bottomed out. I usually take a jack to the front of the lift arm and jack it up so the 5th coil is compressed some as well to make sure the driveshaft will function completely under throttle application.

Hope that helps

taylor2727
08-13-2013, 12:18 PM
We have a gen x same front springs 200 lr 225rr 2 turns preload on 5 th coil on full rebound on slick . Twm birdcages ? U can drop left lower on cage and frame and drop lert upper one hole. If u want it to get on rr better drop right lower

19xmasters
08-13-2013, 02:16 PM
Left rear shock is at full compression and 3 clicks in on rebound, I have been running the right front rebound 3 clicks off and this past week I tried 6 clicks off. I was thinking about going to a 200 LR this week. What is your measurement on the 5th coil? I didn't know if I might need to move it one way or the other from 33". I appreciate the suggestions.

taylor2727
08-13-2013, 05:45 PM
We are at the third hole back from the front with a #325 35" is second hole back on our lift arm so prolly around 33" we are about 160# on lr but your rear percentage is low dont know how close u can get it with a steel motor but were at 54.7 same as left. Ww never did it on our other cars but taking left bars down helps drive and dropping it on the cage gives it that instant jump and it will help to get on a pop up shock or just go with a chain and no shock (thats what we have)

hpmaster
08-13-2013, 05:55 PM
How is the car if you run a 400 RF spring? That is what I would try.

hall99
08-14-2013, 08:39 AM
You have way to much LR you shouldn't need more than 60 to 80 lbs with the motor combo to much LR in the gen x cars can make the car skate you need to look at the side bite (will less LR bite) the speed will pick up. Your bump stop is to tall I would cut it to an 1 1/2 I would also go back to a 225 rr spring. Chain on LR take the LRF shock off 13" of drop. Stay close to ride heights its ok to go up on the LR and down on the RF as the track changes.

I would certainly check all of the other suggestions above as well. But if you not getting enough RF travel the cars will not go forward.

hot rock
08-15-2013, 09:08 AM
Just as the title says our car will not get on the bars off the corner and has no drive at all. Gen-x car LF 450, RF 350 on 2" bump, LRR 225, running LRF dummy, RR 250, 350 fifth coil at 33" adjuster just touching spring, shocks are afco m2's J bar is 8" on frame and center of pinion, 54.5 left, 53.2 rear, 175 lbs bite, steelhead 358 engine with 550 - 600 hp, we are on a hard tire rule and usually run Racer 56's, track is 1/3 mile has some banking and usually blows dust at feature time. Good bit of bar angle in the upper rods, left lower is 3 holes up, right lower is 3rd hole from top, left rods have been shortened 1/4".

look at integra web site under i think shock and springs .where it says additional adjustments it says to run hicke up or down shock on clamp bracket in front when track is high banked or slick ,plus your on hard tires adds inst traction and it will help your car create more lift .

19xmasters
08-16-2013, 07:37 AM
hp master - I have ran a 400 on it this year and I changed to the 350 to try to get the car in the corner better. I have thought about changing it back but I like how the car is turning right now so I am trying to figure out what I am lacking somewhere else. hall99 - I am thinking the car is getting over too far - The lower has dropped mounts but the upper mount is in the standard location so to get ride height right the shock is almost fully extended and the spring is preloaded. I would think this would mean I need to add an inch to the bump height right off the bat. The right front tire rubbed the finish off the under side of the fender last week and the strut rod got into the track a little. That makes me think I need a stiffer spring or taller bump. hot rock - I will look into the clamp bracket, thanks for posting. I appreciate everyone's input. Hopefully before season is over we can have a few more good runs.

7uptruckracer
08-16-2013, 08:26 AM
Your bottoming out the RF because your so front heavy 350 isn't all that soft these days. You are only at 53.2 REAR its because you have a Steel Motor, Get the rear to around 54.5 That Will help your drive off and your RF travel problem and get off that Bump stop just make sure it doesn't bottom out. 6-0 gas LRF maybe more in the slick, index the LR Upper bar on the cage down a hole if your in the top and go to a 200 or 175 LR spring to help you get up. Maybe a 375 RF being your on a banked track and some more RF compression keep your rebound but on high banked tracks sometimes you have to add compression to keep it outta the race track where on a flatter track we might run a 3 compression in the slick you might need a 5 to slow it down. That bump stop is killing you, and adding a sufficient amount of spring weight, just slow down the transfer with the shock. Hope this helps

cedarcreek
08-16-2013, 11:18 PM
I had a problem similar to that,the person I bought the car from put the rh upper ball joint socket upside down.The ball joint stud was hitting the bj holder.I have the heim upper a arm.Just flipped it over so the threaded part(the threaded end not the ball joint) goes down not up.Then I had so much role I just had to shorten driveshaft because the yoke is hitting the rear seal.Hope this helps

Dragoon55
08-17-2013, 04:24 AM
Just as the title says our car will not get on the bars off the corner and has no drive at all. Gen-x car LF 450, RF 350 on 2" bump, LRR 225, running LRF dummy, RR 250, 350 fifth coil at 33" adjuster just touching spring, shocks are afco m2's J bar is 8" on frame and center of pinion, 54.5 left, 53.2 rear, 175 lbs bite, steelhead 358 engine with 550 - 600 hp, we are on a hard tire rule and usually run Racer 56's, track is 1/3 mile has some banking and usually blows dust at feature time. Good bit of bar angle in the upper rods, left lower is 3 holes up, right lower is 3rd hole from top, left rods have been shortened 1/4". Seems kinda light on rear percentage... Better to have percents right than be ultra light.