Bert tranny problems

[mignum]

I think the excessive line bore on my engine is causing my output shaft to bind up, tore the bert down for a rebuild and noticed the small end of the output shaft was spalling badly, put a new output shaft in it on the work bench and slid the yolk in the housing smooth as silk. Put the tranny in the car tried to slide the yolk over the output shaft and it won't go past the bushing, tried to spin the output shaft and its really hard to turn by hand, I can tell by looking that the shaft is not in the center of the seal it's more toward the top of the seal. If I take the tranny out the yolk goes in fine and the shaft spins freely. I maybe missing something but line bore on the engine is what jumped at me when I was thinking about it, I have shortest timing chain you can buy and it's still loose. Anybody seen this before?

[Hurst390]

very doubtful..I would indicate your bellhousing in and go from there...

[dirtplay18]

What shape was the bearing in that goes inside the input shaft? It centers the output shaft to it. If ok, I'd agree with hurst & look at the bell.

[dirty white boy]

get offset dowels for bell houseing to block,..need to center bell to crank... heres a artical bout it from car craft..

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/dial_indicator/photo_04.html

[mignum]

What shape was the bearing in that goes inside the input shaft? It centers the output shaft to it. If ok, I'd agree with hurst & look at the bell.
The bearing looked ok but the shaft it rides on was junked out!

[mignum]

get offset dowels for bell houseing to block,..need to center bell to crank... heres a artical bout it from car craft..

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/dial_indicator/photo_04.html

There is not enough info there I dont see how to center the dial indicator on the crank shaft. Its showing a magnetic base, I would think that you would have to fab up something to go inside the back of the crank or bolt onto the crank to get it right.

[dirty white boy]

There is not enough info there I dont see how to center the dial indicator on the crank shaft. Its showing a magnetic base, I would think that you would have to fab up something to go inside the back of the crank or bolt onto the crank to get it right.

your right,..not the artical i wanted but couldnt find the one from circle track few years ago,..mighta been hot rod...but if your block been line bored then im betting this is your issue,..good luck!DWB

[Lizardracing]

Nothing special is needed. DI and a Magbase. Any cheap one will do just fine as long as it hold the DI securaly. The Magbase will turn in concentric circles so it doens't need centering anything closer than by eye. . Just do the math.

1. Remove clutch assembly from flywheel and install bellhousing on engine block. (It is easier to leave the clutch assembly off the flywheel)
2. Install dial indicator base on the flywheel and adjust plunger to contact the register bore of the housing.
3. Rotate the flywheel and note indicator reading. Misalignment is one-half of the indicator reading. (maximum allowable is .005”)
4. To correct off-center condition, select the offset dowel pin pair that is closest to one-half of the indicator reading. (e.g. if reading is .016”, 1/2R=.008” - use .007” dowels. If reading is .024”, 1/2R=.012” - use .014” dowels)
5. Remove stock dowel pins by driving from back side or pulling with gripper pliers.
6. Clean engine block dowel holes and coat lightly with lubricant.
7. Lubricate dowel pins and install in block. The slot in the dowel pins indicates the direction of maximum offset. They should be installed parallel to one another and in pairs. (both .007” or both .014” and .021”)
8. Install and tighten bellhousing securely. Remount the dial indicator and recheck the register bore runout. (repeat step 3)
9. To make small corrections or adjustments to the alignment, you will need to remove the bellhousing and drive the offset dowels out of the block. Reposition the dowels using the slot as a reference point and re-install. Re-check register bore run-out. Repeat this procedure until the register bore is within limits.

[mignum]

hey thanks for the info, I started this tonight but i need someone to help me turn the engine while I watch the DI. I moved the DI from 6'oclock to about 8'oclock and already had .030" run out! this is what was causing my problems, just didnt know that you had to do that for the tranny, always learning I guess.

[dirty white boy]

hey thanks for the info, I started this tonight but i need someone to help me turn the engine while I watch the DI. I moved the DI from 6'oclock to about 8'oclock and already had .030" run out! this is what was causing my problems, just didnt know that you had to do that for the tranny, always learning I guess.

.030 in less than a 1/4 turn,..ant good,..glade your heading in right direction now,..good luck!

[lazermod3]

I think the excessive line bore on my engine is causing my output shaft to bind up, tore the bert down for a rebuild and noticed the small end of the output shaft was spalling badly, put a new output shaft in it on the work bench and slid the yolk in the housing smooth as silk. Put the tranny in the car tried to slide the yolk over the output shaft and it won't go past the bushing, tried to spin the output shaft and its really hard to turn by hand, I can tell by looking that the shaft is not in the center of the seal it's more toward the top of the seal. If I take the tranny out the yolk goes in fine and the shaft spins freely. I maybe missing something but line bore on the engine is what jumped at me when I was thinking about it, I have shortest timing chain you can buy and it's still loose. Anybody seen this before?

Look's to me that you have a bellhousing alignment issue,due to the excessive line bore.In this case,it's not the transmissions fault.

[Hurst390]

you can do it yourself...take readings at 12-3-6-9 oclock...or every 90 degrees..lol...you need to check run-out and the face being parallel with the back of the block(rim and face)...If you get them both within .005 your good to go..correcting the face will require a mill...
btw you don't have to center the D.I. on the crank...just stick it on where it will stick good and not interfere or hit anything in the bell and take your readings...I start at 12'oclock with the indicator zero'd there...

[mignum]

Look's to me that you have a bellhousing alignment issue,due to the excessive line bore.In this case,it's not the transmissions fault.
yes you are correct it is an alignment issue. Sorry if the title was misleading, that transmission is about an 1994 model been in three cars that I know of and never rebuilt until now to my knowledge. My opinion is that they are bullet proof!

[mignum]

Hey guys thanks for all the help I am headed in the right direction now. Oh, and I didnt think about taking the face reading as well, great heads up!