Metric A Arm Mounts

[fastpro28]

Hi guys looking for some information on moving the A Arm mounts to improve the geometry of the front end. I have read a few things saying to lower the mount and or lower the front bolt hole so it runs perpendicular with the lower holes. Just looking for some ideas on how to do this without screwing things up. Has anybody ever taken pics on how they did there's? Any help would be great. Thanks.

[Racer96m]

Check your PM

Dave

[fastpro28]

Sorry I didn't get a PM. Anybody with some good solid ideas and or pictures of this done?

[stockcar5]

Ours are mounted so that the cross shaft of the upper a arm runs the same direction as the bolt hole centerline of the lower a arm. They are also mounted to remove most of the anti dive and the cross shaft is lowered close to the frame. It's easy to do yourself if you take the time to measure. then once it's done build a jig so you can duplicate it if needed.

[speedbuggy]

Sorry I didn't get a PM. Anybody with some good solid ideas and or pictures of this done?

Dave will get back with you. Must be some technical glitch or something...and it will be worth hearing what he has to say.

[Racer96m]

Sorry I didn't get a PM. Anybody with some good solid ideas and or pictures of this done?

Hummmmm, Dont know what happened there, but Ill try again, LOL

Dave

[CHRISTINE]

What do you do with caster and camber? Do you maintain caster gain loose also camber?

[7uptruckracer]

If you're just slotting the hole to remove anti dive you won't really change your caster gain the camber gain won't change to much either its still the same length arm. If you have to run stock stuff I run the offset cross shaft If you can't modify much to help get the caster and camber numbers I want at the LF. It really depends on your rule You can slow the arms vertically to remove the anti dive, and you can also move the mounts to mount the perpendicular to the chassis centerline to help with the caster gain issue. Most tracks around here don't let you do much of anything. Remember to look at your lower mounts as well. Block the car up and measure ant anti dive in your lower mounts they are twice as effective as the uppers IMO

[CHRISTINE]

IMCA you can move the upper mounts but use a spec uppers on the car i did the rf gained 3 degrees of camber and maintianed caster throught the 3 inch of shock movement until the lower a frame bottomed out on the frame and the lf gained 1-1/2 degrees of camber + and loss 1/2 degree of caster through 3 inch down movement i just didnt know what people were doing on these stock cars it drives like a caddy im looking to change just asking questions.

[7uptruckracer]

That doesn't sound to far off 1* of gain per inch of travel is a good starting point check your antidive most run 3-5 anti on the RF and LF it depends on what you're trying to do some run pro dive some run anti but 0 is a good starting place on uppers and lowers

[fastpro28]

Im just learning the anti dive, how do you come up with the 3-5 anti dive #s?

[7uptruckracer]

Depending on the design on the arm some you can lay a digital level or old school analog degree finder on at right height if you're on level ground. If the frame rail is parallel to the ground you can measure up from the rail to each mounting point and do it that way make them the same measurement, 1/8" 1/4" what have you

[fastpro28]

that's good for the top, do you have to level the lowers holes as well?

[7uptruckracer]

Just like your top arms can have anti dive or pro your lowers can as well. So check them and see where they are I run my LF level and the rf about 1/4 inch of anti dive