Escort Caliper Brackets

[car62]

Anyone know where to get Escort Caliper Brackets for the Ford 7.5 rearend? I have tried to get ahold of FLYNBRYN but no luck.

[oliver racing]

why are you using escort break brackets?

[crcltrakr]

why are you using escort break brackets?

This is a fairly popular brake upgrade for the Fox Mustang rear brakes for Oval track racing. The person Eric was trying to reach used to sell a kit to mount & install them.

[oliver racing]

will they fit my mustang if I go get them out of the junk yard?

[car62]

no,these are weld on brackets that you weld to the rearend housing

[car62]

ok...any brake gurus out there that can point me in the right direction?
1986 fox body mustang with manual brake adaper in firewall,Wilwood Tandem Master 7/8 bore, part number 260-9439...front brakes are all stock with new calipers and cross drilled and slotted rotors,all new metal lines to wilwood proportioning valve right next to driver,then back to new 1989 escort front calipers on escort cross drilled and slotted rotors.
we can get full front brakes,but no rear brakes,we have replaced all lines, all fittings,everything is inverted flare fittings to double flare lines,the escort calipers originally took a banjo fitting,so re-tapped them to a 3/8-24 and screwed in a female inverted flare, then ran the rear lines into those,no matter what we try,we cannot get rear brakes,we are over a month into this battle and so far have went through over 2 gallons of brake fluid,used the old fashioned method of someone pumping brakes,then crack bleeder,also used a vacuum pump,then an air powered vacuum pump,then a phoenix brake injection system...have had the same results with 3 different stock masters,and now this wilwood master,also eliminated the factory distribution block and residual valve,so the primary line from master goes to a T which then goes to RF and LF brakes,the rear(secondary) then goes to wilwood proportioning valve then to rearend,then out to escort calipers,have tried bypassing proportioning valve with same results,also tried switching the rears to the front to see if master was the issue,no such luck...PLEASE HELP..i have been pulling my hair out over this issue.

Sincerely, Going Bald in Idaho

[mtbailey]

do you have fluid at the rear calipers? Does the master sit level or is the front higher than rear?

[billb56]

Have you tried using a brake pressure gauge to determine if there is the appropiate pressure at the rear brakes? It may help point you in the right direction. Even though the front brakes seem to be working there may be something in the line going to the rear brakes preventing them from getting the correct pressure. It is worth the time to help isolate the problem. Someone near you must have a brake bias gauge setup.

[car62]

yes there is fluid at the rear calpers,bleeder valve is the highest point on the rears,master sits level

[mtbailey]

If your absolutely sure you have removed all air, and sounds like you are, then I am going to give you the same advice I gave you on your other thread about this. Get the residual pressure valve from my earlier post. Place it at the master cylinder. I know what wildwood and the other "experts" say. I have had this same issue before and little valve is like magic.

you can also install a pressure gauge in the bleed hole and see if you are getting the proper pressure. If you have normal pressure look at the calipers. If you are using used parts that you don't know the history of, make sure the pistons move and are not frozen in the bore.

[car62]

If your absolutely sure you have removed all air, and sounds like you are, then I am going to give you the same advice I gave you on your other thread about this. Get the residual pressure valve from my earlier post. Place it at the master cylinder. I know what wildwood and the other "experts" say. I have had this same issue before and little valve is like magic.

you can also install a pressure gauge in the bleed hole and see if you are getting the proper pressure. If you have normal pressure look at the calipers. If you are using used parts that you don't know the history of, make sure the pistons move and are not frozen in the bore.

so put a 2psi valve right at the master for the rear brakes? or should i get 2 of them and do it at both the front and rear?

[mtbailey]

Since you have front brakes, and don't have rear brakes, for now just the rear. You should check the pressure at the caliper first though. You didn't answer if you have used calipers......

[FATMAN]

You could start off by just putting one on the rear line but i would do both at same time (front and rear) so you don't have to do it later. Yea 2# are for disc brakes.

[car62]

oh sorry,yes EVERYTHING is brand new

[FATMAN]

Where did you find your rear caliper mounts at?

[car62]

i made them

[mtbailey]

Well did it fix it?

[car62]

no it didnt,i tried both a 2psi and 10psi...we were able to block off the RR and that gave us enough brakes to actually make the 1st race,but really need that 4th brake...same results with blocking off the LR,so even though rearend is welded,we figured block off the RR brake and go race for now...i feel like maybe the 7/8 master isnt big enough??

[FATMAN]

Sounds like it.

[billb56]

You just might try reading up on how to properly size a mater cylinder to your calipers that you have and to set up the proper leverage that is needed.

https://www.markwilliams.com/braketech.aspx

[mtbailey]

The Master cylinder you are using has a 2to1 ratio for fluid delivery. Meaning that twice as much fluid goes to the front brakes as does the rear. Sounds like you have discovered that you need more fluid to the rear. Wilwood has some that I think are 1to1. they use them in late models. Below are some questions I took off a tech site that may help you. Look for a master that is for disc/disc applications.

Can I use a disc/drum master for four wheel disc brakes?

Usually not. For 4 wheel disc brakes to function properly you will need a master that has a longer stroke.

How does a disc brake master differ from a drum brake master?

A drum brake master will differ from a disc brake master in two ways. The amount of fluid that a drum brake master has to move is less than disc brake. Drum brake masters have 10 lb residual valves at the outlet to keep a residual pressure on the drums. If you use a drum brake master for disc brakes you would move an insufficient volume of fluid and the disc brakes would drag because of the residual valves.

[car62]

actually here is the link to the data sheet for my master,it is 50/50
http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds487.pdf

[mtbailey]

50/50 is the pressure ratio, You have a volume issue, and again it is a 2/1 ratio. twice as much volume going to the front than the rear. That works ok on a disc/drum set-up. It takes more fluid volume to operate disc brakes than it does drum brakes.

[car62]

ok,so how do i fix it so we can use all 4 brakes?

[CnDRacing]

Have you tried swapping the lines on the master cylinder? If this gives you more rear brake vs front then it will prove the volume ratio is off.

[mtbailey]

a disc/disc manual brake master cylinder. go to your local parts house. You should take the advice from the post and switch you brake lines and confirm first. If that gives you rear brake you know that is what you need.

[car62]

i did switch,got the same results

[wolf03]

Wow, I just picked up an unfinished mustang project roller that came with discs on the rear, looks like a factory mustang master. you guys have me thinking I should just put one of my Drum rears on.
Being I run on dirt I dont see any advantage to a disc setup.