dirt works set up?

[racin6mod]

I'm looking to help a guy with a 07 dw with the short rear bars 12'' and 14'' 4 bars both sides with the lr on a coil over behind. what's a good to start we're changing springs and possible shock's the car has a aluminum headed 392 sbc and a qc rearend if that helps. the car now is tight and wants to carry the lf. we have spaced the rr out lowered the j-bar on the frame also the air pressure on the rf seems we had to run it low to get the car to turn in the middle. has the basic dw set up as far as springs and shocks.

[anissa5]

add leftside weight what wheels are you running now. I ran a dw years ago that also had 14 upper and 12 lowers I had to run 4 in wheels on leftside and add leftside weight that car had around 50.5 to 51 without driver ran 3in wheels on right side

[anissa5]

That is what we done years ago you may run 3in wheels on left and 2in wheels on the right and run a 2in even on the lf . I had the same deal always packed the lf I also shorten the wheelbase a 1/4 on the left and lengthen on the right. If my memory is right the dw had no left side weight and a lot of rear % so we added left to loosen on entry .I would also watch lr drop you may getting to much with the short bars back in 2003 we did not know much about the springbehind.

[powerslide]

low air pressure in the RF seems to point to needing a softer RF spring. Not sure what "standard" is but i would soften it 50-100 pounds. This will help keep it off the RR and help it turn in the center/exit as well.

[racin6mod]

low air pressure in the RF seems to point to needing a softer RF spring. Not sure what "standard" is but i would soften it 50-100 pounds. This will help keep it off the RR and help it turn in the center/exit as well.

we set everything off the DW set sheet that is on the dirt forum other than running the spring and shock behind on the lr.


Sorry for the delay my computer has been on and off due some kind of issue.

[powerslide]

So like 700-750? if so i would soften the whole frontend and get like 550lf 600/550 rf or something close to that.

Measure the drop on the LR should be between 4-5inches difference from r/h to full drop measuring where the birdcage is. If its closer to 5 shorten it up to 4. If you have two sets of holes on the LRU birdcage run the back set.

I would try drop and front springs first then see where you are at.

[racin6mod]

the set up sheet we found was 650fl,750rf,225lr,175rr wheel offset are 4 inch on the lf and rr, 3 inch on the rf and lr the shocks are the integra dry slick set up. WE RAN 14# in the rf I've noticed a lot of the faster cars are running higher air pressure in the rf tire

[powerslide]

clear out your PM's

[JHobbs26]

That setup sheet is from the early 2000's. Do like Matt said, 550lf, 600rf, 200lr, 175rr.

Do you have the corrected uppers or stock mount location?

Do you have the early 64-67 chevelle or later 68-72?

[powerslide]

I went back and re-read his original post and i think alot of his problem is likely the LR on a coilover behind. He has nothing to keep it from jumping up on the bars. Seperate the LR shock/spring and get a slider for the spring behind, put the shock in front on the birdcage, i would assume the shock you have now is a 6-2 to 8-2.

[racin6mod]

yes a 6-2 lr I was thinking of going to the spring behind shock in front that's what I ran on my predator mod just not many DW's in my area to share info with.

front clip is 64-67

pm's are clear

[powerslide]

Get the springs jimmy and i suggested and seperate that LR shock/spring, raise the Jbar back up on the frame and see how it goes.

I should of probably asked this sooner but what tires are you on?

I'm not sure what jimmy was getting at on the clip maybe he will chime back in on that one.

[not clamped up]

Get the springs jimmy and i suggested and seperate that LR shock/spring, raise the Jbar back up on the frame and see how it goes.

I should of probably asked this sooner but what tires are you on?

I'm not sure what jimmy was getting at on the clip maybe he will chime back in on that one.
If its hoosier UMP a straight bar to the outside of 2x2 bracket may be just what you need.

[racin6mod]

tire are ump

[modracr41]

tire are ump

I also have a DW11, but I run on the IMCA hoosier tires with steel heads. Would this same info apply? I have the 650-700 springs front, 200-175 rear, and the LR on a 8/2 shock. Haven't run it yet, but looking to get it set up out of the gate then adjust from there. Any help is appreciated.

[35smod]

Switch to what the guys said above and the car will be much faster and more driveable but i would go to 2" off wheels around maybe a 3" on re as track slicks off no less than a 200 on rr preferably a 225 separate that spring and shock on the lr and get the shock on the front definitely jbar center of pinion with about 5" of rake should be in the neighborhood of 500 - 600 spring on rf that should get that car to turn and rotate good with good drive off

[modracr41]

Thanks for the info. Just wanted some current info to start from with the IMCA tires and steel heads.

[Elam Budmore]

That setup sheet is from the early 2000's. Do like Matt said, 550lf, 600rf, 200lr, 175rr. Do you have the corrected uppers or stock mount location? Do you have the early 64-67 chevelle or later 68-72? what do you mean by corrected uppers? I have what I believe to be a 2005 with a 64-67 stub but I think the front upper arms may have been relocated, how can I tell?

[powerslide]

The stock mount uppers have a cross bar to bolt the upper to. The new "updated" versions just have a heim bolted to the frame.

[Elam Budmore]

thanks for the info. Does anyone have a idea as to the aprox length of these corrected arms? and if they should be the same right to left? also can anyone tell me how to identify what year dirtworks we have here from the number welded on the frame rail?

[JHobbs26]

Dirtworks gave you 2 front end options. the standard option was using a 1 piece upper bolted to the stock tower in the stock location. Or you could order the car with the "corrected" frontend which used the swedge tube/heim style. I believe for the 2005 your LF should use a 6" & 7" swedge tube and the RF uses 5" & 6". Its been 4 years since I've worked on a dirtworks so my memory might be a little off, your best bet would be calling Gary Clark or Jerry Hoffman. Dirtworks did not weld a serial number to the frame, they used a plate riveted to the dash bar.

[Mosidebite]

Call Hoffman. 417 673 7426

[modracr41]

thanks for the info. Does anyone have a idea as to the aprox length of these corrected arms? and if they should be the same right to left? also can anyone tell me how to identify what year dirtworks we have here from the number welded on the frame rail?

I don't think Dirtworks welded a number on the frame rail. There should be an ID tag in the interior on the left side of the crossbar that your steering bolts to. It says Dirtworks in huge letters, and has letters printed on it like "DW then a dash." After that, there will be a number stamped into the tag like 1857 or whatever the chassis number is. There should also be a lazer cut Dirtworks welded to the crossbar behind the fuel cell. If your car doesn't have these things, it may be a dirtworks copy. Hope this helps.