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zeroracing
06-22-2014, 08:31 PM
Have a falcon starter that appears to have broken, when you test on the bench and battery it clicks but won't spin... Couple questions.

I know a Bert and brinn bellhousing take the same starter, is a winters/falcon bellhousing different or the same starter also?

Does anybody rebuild starters anymore, or with cost of labor vs new does everybody just buy new? I figured I would call some local auto electric places in the morning about a rebuild but did not know if anybody else has rebuilt one.

Lizardracing
06-22-2014, 11:31 PM
Bert, Brinn and Falcon all use the same starter as the bolt pattern and location is the same. The bells are all close enough to interchange as long as the flywheel and crank hub match brands. The tooth count differ. The pitch remains the same among them.

If your still in the MidMo area these guys do great work. http://asaprebuilders.com/

Yours sound like the stator or brushes.

bowtech
06-22-2014, 11:55 PM
You are correct I am currently running a falcon on a bert bell

powerslide
06-23-2014, 08:30 AM
zero you might be able to rob the motor off a starter for a 1987 toyota pickup to put on yours, or just modify it like listed below. I modified the one on my USRA mod, its only 10.5-1 but its done fine, price has gone up since this post was made.

Alright, here's the deal. A 1987 Toyota pickup starter for the 22R engine @ Autozone Auto Parts part #16674X for $49.99 with one-year warranty. Don't spring the extra $20 bucks for the lifetime warranty starter because your going to modify it and the warranty will be void anyway.

should be able to do it in 35-40 minutes max.

1. Remove starter head, be careful because there's a middle gear that has a shaft through it that comes out when you remove the head and the gear has roller bearings in it that could fall out. But if they do they are simple to put back in the bottom of the gear.
2. Remove the gear drive from the starter head.
3. Disassemble the gear drive by pushing the shaft up and the gear down to expose the lock ring. Remove the lock ring so you can remove the gear, now remove the small spring, large spring and the washer that has inner grooves and trash them. You'll also leave off the lock ring and ring that was at the end of the gear. Re-assemble the gear drive and get ready to do some welding. Put the gear flush with the end of the shaft and weld it there. You will need to leave the long spring that sticks up out of the starter when the gear drive is removed. The two springs to leave out are IN the gear drive.
4. You now need to get ready to cut on the starter head. There are two "rings" where the starter shaft comes through the head. One is the large one that lines the starter up, the other is smaller right around the hole where the gear comes through. You need to cut the inner/small ring so it's level with the outer ring if you were to lay a straight edge across them.
5. Re-assemble the starter gear drive and starter head onto the starter and tighten bolts.
6. Now remove the cover on the other end of the starter that has 3 small screws holding it on. Take the centerpiece out and put some silicone on the contact that has one small wire to help prevent it from breaking and re-assemble that end. Put your jumper wire on and your ready.

ps make sure the starter gear has a back stop made on the gear. some dont they are open .. if it dont have the back stop it will not engage the bert starter gear to the engine flywheel

FlatTire
06-23-2014, 09:36 AM
I use a falcon/winters bell housing with a Powermaster starter for a Brinn. I'm pretty certain they are all interchange.

About 2yrs ago my powermaster started quit working. I sent it to Powermaster for a rebuild. It needed brushes and was full of dirt/corrosion from power washing! That rebuilt starter lasted less than 20races before it burnt up the external wire that goes from the solenoid to the motor. So I called up powermaster and asked them what they thought it would take to get it fixed. With freight I was looking at $125. You can buy a new one for $225 so thats what I did. The new ones seems to last quite a bit longer than the rebuilt ones.

Lizardracing
06-24-2014, 09:01 AM
Cover all the holes and screw heads with silly cone to keep the water and dirt out.

Brinn Transmissions
07-03-2014, 09:44 AM
Water is one of the biggest culprits of starter failures. Cover your starter or remove it completely before power washing the race car. Also, make sure the mounting surface between starter and the bell housing is clean and free of paint, dirt, oil etc. That surface is your main ground back to the engine block. Some guys paint their bell housings, then tell us their starter does not work. If you paint the bell housing, make sure you grind the paint off at the starter interface.

Dirt2727
12-09-2014, 09:31 PM
Thank you, powerslide....was a big help