rough running 358

[HRGraphics]

I have 2 videos I will share at the end of this but we are looking for last ditch efforts. I have posted here before about shocks and received a ton of help, which I am hoping to find again.

The car idles great and is set to 32 degrees out on timing, and every time it is checked it's always still at 32. We have rebuilt the carb, rechecked all lifters to .18, spark plugs are gapped at 35. The videos taken were on a brand new set of plugs and wires. The fuel is clean, the pumps are pumping fuel great, good fuel psi and oil pressure. It just will not run correctly. The smoke is from the right rear rubbing. It went flat shortly after.

Kipp Schaefer - Play day: http://youtu.be/gFGW8-x1K2k

Kipp Schaefer play day: http://youtu.be/E5CKUw_49Is

[72Dubya]

Have you checked your coil?

Also, what color are your plugs when you pull them after letting the car idle for five minutes?

[HRGraphics]

The coil is the very first thing we changed. We didn't pull the plugs after any sessions so I can't say for sure at the moment. We ran this same engine last year with no problems, it was stored correctly during the off season and upon putting the new car together and dropping the engine in we've been fighting this since.

[26-62 racing]

Start with the basic, three things are required to make an engine run, compression, fuel ,and ignition. Do a compression test first to make sure that every cylinder has compression to fire the fuel mixture. Fuel system start at the vent and work you way to the carb. Who rebuilt the carb, did it run fine before carb was rebuilt, was something missed or wrong gasket used in rebuild? Was carb cleaned in carb cleaner, washed with water the air dried? Float level to high, to low? Vacuum Leak? Ingition, new plug wires, check with ohm meter to make sure no open in wiring, flex wire when checking to check for broken wire. Bad new spark plug, check for cracked insulators, ground tip broke off. ( Seen it happen before ) Plug wire crossed, done it myself. Good engine ground. Work through the problem so you know where you are at . Dont just change parts and guess what is wrong and drive yourself crazy!

[26-62 racing]

Check battery voltage should be 13.2 volts for a fully charged 12 volt battery. Do load test on battery to maintain voltage. Part store can do test if you do not have equipment. Is all the new wiring have a good connection where wire and connectors are made?

[DaveBauerSS6]

MSD box or ground wire .Put a meter to both hots one at a time on the box and the ground on the wire connector for the ground, motor running, should be battery voltage.

[72Dubya]

We fought that same issue earlier this year, car even sounded the same. Pulled the plugs and they were very black (running fuel rich and loading the plugs), we jetted down one size and changed plugs and the car has never done it again.

[72Dubya]

That being said I would check everything else these guys are saying because I know for a fact that they know more than I do about this matter. Just putting in my suggestion.

[26-62 racing]

Should have said compressed air dried on the carb rebuild to remove any loose debris. Sorry about that. let us know what you have found out. It will help everybody. Mike

[HRGraphics]

We have tried 72 to 84 jets with no difference, we don't run an MSD box. That carb was rebuilt and had 5 laps on it, from a professional with carburetors.

I checked the plugs, they were a little black, but nothing that would be alarming. In the second video, we know for sure a lot of the smoke is from tire rub but we are starting to believe some of it may be engine smoke.

We are running a compression check tomorrow, and had a distributor built specifically for our cam and engine setup we are putting in along with it.

[Hammer]

Plugs shouldn't have any black on them. I would run a ground wire 10ga from battery to the intake it's help a lot people with a little miss.

[HRGraphics]

I will continue to post what we try and if it affects the car and may hopefully help myself and someone else's. All of your guys suggestions will be looked into.

The car starts instantly and idles great and even sounds good revving sitting still. But going around the track and soon as you dump any loud pedal into it, it falls on its face.

[72Dubya]

Plugs need to be white to whitish brown with no black at all. That shows you are fuel rich and loading up your plugs.

[HRGraphics]

T,he plugs were definitely black but I have see worse plugs. The only oddball is we've ran this same engine rebuilt every year from the same guy, this off season we didn't rebuild. It ran great when stored, and won't run now. What changed?

That session I posted was with 73 jets, What do you suggest? My first though was a fuel pressure regulator, we don't run one.

[26-62 racing]

If everything ran fine last year, check what was new this year. If the motor run good in the shop on under lite load, but falls on it face under hammer down race track conditions, something should,could maybe, be wrong in the ignition system. Again check battery voltage HEI ignitions require a good battery to fire under heavy engine loads. Check all grounds and wire connections, good engine ground. Did the module go bad in the dist? Plugs will look too rich if ignition is not firing properly. What did the person who worked on the dist do? Talk to him about the problem, if he is good with ignition systems he should be a wealth of information.

[HRGraphics]

Upon further inspection today we found 3 broken poly locks in our roller rockers! We are going to replace them all in the morning, and readjust the lifters to .18 all the way around. Between the fixed locks, the brand new distributor, new plugs gapped to 35, and a new set of plug wires.. I hope we have this issue fixed. I will report Saturday night after the races.

[let-r-eat]

When you say "broken poly lock" how was it broken? Where was it broken? Did it break the stud?Personally, I think you have a head gasket problem.

[HRGraphics]

When you say "broken poly lock" how was it broken? Where was it broken? Did it break the stud?Personally, I think you have a head gasket problem.

Number 2, 6 and 7 were broken down the base, split towards the hex. We believe having them set at .22 had too much play and wiggled loose and ended up breaking from wearing themselves out. Studs were fine. Sound accurate?

[DaveBauerSS6]

Check for valve spring coil bind.

[26-62 racing]

No something does not sound correct .004 more gap in valve clearance will not break poly locks. Take a compression test. Look everything over real well. Talk to your motor builder, tell him what you have found. I would check the push rods on those cylinders roll them on s smooth straight surface ( glass or a counter top ), are they bent any? If they are have valve and pistons touched? Bent valve? How is the time to check, you do not want to hurt a good motor. You have done great to find this problem, look farther! Make sure everything else is OK with then valve train, could this be a result of something else going on , or going to happen. Might want o talk to your motor builder before you race this weekend. Just my thoughts, just do not want see anybody hurt their motor. Mike

[dirtplay18]

Sounds like electrical to me. Make sure you have sufficient engine grounds, also try unhooking the tach. I have seen this happen on rare occasions. Also, may want to try by-passing the battery shut-off switch, and/or replacing your ignition toggle switch, another commonly over-looked thing. If electrical system checks all good, I would do a cylinder leak-down test, way, way better than a compression test. Good luck!

[HRGraphics]

Engine ran decently for about 6 laps in the heat race, still smoked until lap 7, then we put on a real smoke show. She gone. Lol

[HRGraphics]

Engine ran decently for about 6 laps in the heat race, still smoked until lap 7, then we put on a real smoke show. She gone. Lol

Oh well, that's a part of racing and the reason they make backup engines.

[72Dubya]

Oh well, that's a part of racing and the reason they make backup engines.

Just some oil pan vent holes http://www.4m.net/images/smilies/smile.png

But in all seriousness, that really stinks. Hope you get up and going again!

[HRGraphics]

Just some oil pan vent holes http://www.4m.net/images/smilies/smile.png

But in all seriousness, that really stinks. Hope you get up and going again!

For sure, looking for that racers edge! Lol. We were expecting it to go soon with the issues we are having. It let us know it was about to go with a he'll of a rackett. There's water throughout the entire block and under the valve covers we are tearing it apart now. We have a engine almost ready to drop in if these heads check out good again.

[26-62 racing]

Hate to see that, better luck with the new bullet...Mike

[DaveBauerSS6]

For sure, looking for that racers edge! Lol. We were expecting it to go soon with the issues we are having. It let us know it was about to go with a he'll of a rackett. There's water throughout the entire block and under the valve covers we are tearing it apart now. We have a engine almost ready to drop in if these heads check out good again.

I would check the coil bind on those heads before I ran them again. May just transfer the problem even if its a new cam.

[HRGraphics]

I would check the coil bind on those heads before I ran them again. May just transfer the problem even if its a new cam.

Everything below the intake is junked! That's okay though we will be back out Saturday even stronger, I appreciate the help men!

[HRGraphics]

For anyone curious what happened. 5 lifters and push rods are totally gone. Pieces of scrap are lifters, chaos went down inside of this engine. Lol

[Fox_hunter42]

just a thought, Weak valve springs. Valve sucked open, it piston and boom