anti squat and shocks

[el paso mod 19]

This is two questions. One, if you are running really aggressive shocks, do most people disconnect them when setting ride heights and scaling? I already slide RR axle out, but I think the shocks are not allowing car to settle down to relaxed state after jacking car up to make an adjustment. If I come back couple hours later, numbers are different. Two, how do you adjust anti squat or does the aggressive LR shock already help with squat? Car is getting real close, just trying to get that last little bit out of it. Just thought of another question as I was typing. On GRT setup page they were saying to change LR from a spring in back/shock in front to a coil over behind when track goes slick. How does this work? Seems to me that on throttle the bars are the only thing holding LR up, since the rotation(on throttle) takes all the coil over out of equation. Or does it? Thanks.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

This is two questions. One, if you are running really aggressive shocks, do most people disconnect them when setting ride heights and scaling? I already slide RR axle out, but I think the shocks are not allowing car to settle down to relaxed state after jacking car up to make an adjustment. If I come back couple hours later, numbers are different. Two, how do you adjust anti squat or does the aggressive LR shock already help with squat? Car is getting real close, just trying to get that last little bit out of it. Just thought of another question as I was typing. On GRT setup page they were saying to change LR from a spring in back/shock in front to a coil over behind when track goes slick. How does this work? Seems to me that on throttle the bars are the only thing holding LR up, since the rotation(on throttle) takes all the coil over out of equation. Or does it? Thanks.

On late models, I adjust them to soft for scaling.

Do you mean change 4 link angles because you have a different shock? The answer is no.

The idea behind removing the front shock is that the lr is more free to climb the bars and hike up quicker.

[Bcollins82]

Your numbers are probably different because of air pressures changing over a couple of hours. After you bounce the RF you might have to wait a few minutes for it to settle, but it will be obvious on your scale readout when it has fully extended.

[el paso mod 19]

Thanks for the replies. My shocks don't have adjustment knobs for quick changes(lowering compression) so I guess I should just unhook the bottom and leave hanging. I know that when I started taking the axle out of the splines the weights come right back to the same reading after rolling off scales and back on. The deal about taking shock from front on LR to moving to rear with a coil over seems like a pretty big "swing" to make. Has anyone tried this?

[Bcollins82]

You don't really need to unhook the shock. Just shake, watch your numbers, and you'll see them settle within a minute or so, then proceed. On the LR shock deal, some guys run like that without issue and win races like that, but be sure to have a limit chain in place. In my experience, it lets the car pop up too quickly without the shock in front. You just lose a ton of LR control without a shock in front.

[Bcollins82]

So shock in front controls things better than shock behind lr? Just tryin to understand that as well.

Yes, the front mount on your birdcage actually travels farther and faster than the axle itself due to birdcage rotation making the shock more effective. How much varies because of bar angles, lengths, and birdcage mounting points. So when you mount the spring/shock to the rear of the cage it travels less/slower than the axle itself giving less control by making the shock/spring act "softer" than having it mounted in front.

[drtrkr244]

Just as bc82 said, don't bounce the car, just shake it lightly and it will settle in a couple of minutes. No more bouncing car like the old days.

[Bcollins82]

I would unhook them personally I never found them consistent ever with shocks hooked up. But if running a coil over lr or rr that would be different and I don't think I'd like because of the numbers we run. I think we see a 30-40 lb change on the lr with shock on or off.

If your scale numbers are inconsistent with the shocks hooked up, you need to take a look at your shocks, control arm bushings, balljoints, etc because you have something bound up.

[Racer96m]

My car is a 4/4 spring behind. I unhook one end of the shocks on RF,LF and LR. RR is coil over kit so leave that hooked up. I always pull the LR axle out of the splines. My shocks are what you would call aggressive, so I just find this to be the best way to get good numbers. To each his own, this works for me.

Dave

[Bcollins82]

Inconsistent numbers with shocks hooked, and not having patience to see those numbers are two different issues. However you chose to do it is fine, just do it the same way every time. I prefer scaling with them hooked up because it slows the rate that the car settles. If you have something in even a slight bind you know it pretty quickly because the numbers won't settle consistently.

[HEAVY DUTY]

Most inconsistancies with scale numbers on a 4 link LR are from the LR tire getting twisted when you set it back down after being jacked up. Pull the LR axle out so the LR can free up when the rear steer tries to square back up. The gas pressure and shock valving will hold the car up temporarily, and you should wait for it to settle down. If it is bolted to the car when you race it, it needs to be bolted to the car when you scale it, or what is the use in scaling the car to begin with? JMO

[mod88s]

If you have a high pressure gas shock on LR, it will of course change your numbers on the scales. mine does the same 30-40 pound difference. I scale it without the LR hooked up. At the end of the scaling session, I bolt up the LR shock just to see what it does and record those numbers too.