cooling

[brian-micheal]

street stock camero i am running 1-1 pullings and a single bypass radiator no shroud do you think it need a restrictor or is this not the way to go

[72Dubya]

Do NOT run a restrictor, get a genuine GM 19" high pitch 4 blade fan, and a good fan shroud. Your fan blades should be half in and half out of it. Then run distilled water and ONLY distilled water. You can buy it by the gallon for 79 cents at your local grocery store or Wal Mart. Get ten gallons at a time so you always have enough.

[Driver88]

I run a thermostat. My car gets to operating temp without having to idle for 30mins. I run a GM fan with a shroud and have never had an overheating issue even with 60 over 400. I originally did this with intentions of taking it out and putting a restrictor in when the weather got hot and car started overheated. But it never did overheat. So I never did. And have have ran this in 3 different engines.

[runyou-2]

An engine performs best,and has a better chance lasting longer when running an even temperature,therefor,using a thermostat IS good.BUT,the problem is,if the stat ever malfunctions while you are racing hard,the temp can peg in a blink of an eye.To me it is just another mechanical device that is not NEEDED to make the engine not over heat.

I agree with 72Dubya,and we do exactly what he posted,with one exception,we run Water Wetter with Distilled Water to lube the water pump.Also,when we used to run Vortec heads,we had to restrict the flow with a 5/8 restrictor to cool things down to 200 on a wet track.

The fan,shroud,and distilled water posted is a MUST before you go elsewhere with cooling problems.

[Driver88]

Ive not had any trouble with them malfunctioning.

[72Dubya]

An engine performs best,and has a better chance lasting longer when running an even temperature,therefor,using a thermostat IS good.BUT,the problem is,if the stat ever malfunctions while you are racing hard,the temp can peg in a blink of an eye.To me it is just another mechanical device that is not NEEDED to make the engine not over heat.

I agree with 72Dubya,and we do exactly what he posted,with one exception,we run Water Wetter with Distilled Water to lube the water pump.Also,when we used to run Vortec heads,we had to restrict the flow with a 5/8 restrictor to cool things down to 200 on a wet track.

The fan,shroud,and distilled water posted is a MUST before you go elsewhere with cooling problems.

I run 2 bottles of Water Wetter as well, I forgot to mention it! I have not had a pump fail since using it, I am not too sure about it keeping the motor cooler, but it definitely helps keep everything lubed. A well lubed pump will keeping your cooling system running a lot more efficiently especially since it will keep the impeller in good shape.

I only added the part about only running distilled water as in not to run tap water or antifreeze(which is very unsafe in a racecar because it can seep into groundwater if it leaks onto a track)

[72Dubya]

Running tap water is still better than running an antifreeze mix, I just do not like the rust and scale it causes, especially in a brand new motor. Stewart pumps are what we use, really good pieces. The use of a water additive is purely up to your opinion, but I honestly do not see them keeping things cooler, they are just good lubes for everything.

But I bet everyone can agree that a 19" high pitch GM fan (not an aftermarket knockoff) with a good shroud are the 2 most vital parts in a good cooling system, as well as cleaning your radiator out on a regular basis.

[72Dubya]

Well since you asked..

If you have a good cooling system, you wont need holes in your nose and youll be able to tape up the bottom 6-7 inches of radiator so you wont need to clean out your radiator it will stay clean!!

I have ran distilled and it runs cooler when I had issues long ago.. I don't like the rust either, Ive tried a additive from napa its a water conditioner for seals etc..

beings that I need a stat to get my stuff up to temp a little anti freeze doesn't bother me in the least, Im not worried about the lower boiling point of anti freeze as I never see over 210

My problem with antifreeze is when it leaks onto the track. It is just not safe if it hits groundwater supplies, I don't care about how it performs, it is just not safe at racetracks where at least one person pops a radiator per class per night.

And I do not run holes in my nose either, but that fan is going to be sucking dusty air through the fins and that dust accumulates. and over time can pack a radiator, especially when some particulates make it through the screens placed in front of radiators. I usually need to clean mine out once a month with very low pressure water(barely flowing so the fins to not deform), sometimes more if I am on a muddy track and the big mud clumps take out my screens.

[72Dubya]

Ive never broke a radiator in 21 years of racing and Ive destroyed two cars. One cup of antifreeze mixed into 5 gallons of water to prevent rust and lube the pump seals isn't going to bother any ground water supplies, lol...

Is water wetter ok for drinking water???

We both know I'm talking about the guys who run straight antifreeze lol

[72Dubya]

Who in the heck would run straight anti freeze? Ive never heard of such a thing. Do you park on a tarp in the pits like they require in California??

Believe me, there are guys that just get a few jugs of straight Peak or Prestone and pour it in and then add like one bottle of water lol.

[Driver88]

[QUOTE=stock car driver;1889483]Ive never broke a radiator in 21 years of racing and Ive destroyed two cars. One cup of antifreeze mixed into 5 gallons of water to prevent rust and lube the pump seals isn't going to bother any ground water supplies, lol...

So one cup is enough to keep the rust away? I've often wondered what the bare minimum it would take would be.
Thanks

[save the racers]

Put a good tight shroud on it,with 1to 1 pulleys the 4 blade fan is a must.Some have good luck with a restrictor some don't.Run one if you can.I like about 10 to 20% anti freeze because it also raises your boiling piont.A good high pressure cap (27lbs) raises the boiling piont also.

[DirtRacer9x]

Distilled water and some additive to lubricate pump.

[save the racers]

Anti freeze doesn't conduct heat as good as water but raises the boiling point.A jug of antifreeze will have a graph on the back showing how it effects the freezeing and boiling points.

[Racer96m]

Nothing cools better than straight water. A couple notes on pulleys. 1 to 1 works best with a "V" belt setup because the V belt slips so much. You need it to turn faster to compensate for slippage. If you can grab your fan and turn it, with the belts tight. Its slipping at Rpm. I got tired of wearing out pulleys from the slipping and went to a serpentine setup. Zero slippage with serpentine so now you have to run a reduction pulley setup. I run 20% . It all ends up turning the same speed but now you have no slipping belts that wear the pulleys. The V pulleys just get worse and worse every season. just my .02

Dave

[save the racers]

What brand serpentine pulley are you using.I am going to serpentine this year is there anything to be careful about?I only have the water pump on the front.

[Racer96m]

Jones. Only way to go. Worth every cent IMO.

Dave

[72Dubya]

x3 on the Jones serpentine. No slippage on our SS or Mod. Great products.

[Racer96m]

Call Jones and talk with Tech people. They will tell you all V belts slip. Cogged or no. Serpentine doesnt slip because of much greater surface area contact with pulley. If your serpentine belt is correct size, you arent going to be able to install it with water pump installed. If you buy Jones or not, worth a call, they are very helpful.

Dave

[Racer96m]

I run a 4 blade GM fan. The belt is indexed to TDC and does not slip. Cant imagine why you would need a Gilmer belt system on your IMCA Crate motor. I run more RPM and have twice the HP you do. I run exactly what Jones recommends for the cup motors. But whatever you have to do to get it turning the correct speed and not slip. My point was to make people aware of what is actually happening and why.

Dave

[powerslide]

Call Jones and talk with Tech people. They will tell you all V belts slip. Cogged or no. Serpentine doesnt slip because of much greater surface area contact with pulley. If your serpentine belt is correct size, you arent going to be able to install it with water pump installed. If you buy Jones or not, worth a call, they are very helpful.

Dave

are you saying you have to leave the water pump loose then get the belt on then tighten the pump?

[Racer96m]

I give up Dave, Im sure everything Jones has told me as one of their dealers is wrong. They built the gilmer for no reason, serpentine was fine they just felt like building something else.


I don't know what cup motors are is that a coffee stirrer? I didn't know jones sold kitchen stuff.


Sorry Jeff, for an instant I forgot you know everything about everything. You are a trip

Dave

[Racer96m]

are you saying you have to leave the water pump loose then get the belt on then tighten the pump?

Im almost afraid to answer this, Maybe SCD should tell you? But yes, there is no way to get a correctly sized surp belt on with the water pump installed. You leave the pump loose get belt on and tighten pump. My good friend who builds Winston "Cup" motors at PME down in Morsville NC had to tell me the trick to get it on. And SCD, dont care who Na$car sells out to, will always be Winston Cup to me.

Dave

[Racer96m]

lol, Im sure you've heard the term the pot calling the kettle black..

LOL, OK Mr Kettle

[powerslide]

That's how I did my v-belt, thought it would be bad for the bearings in the pump but only way I could get it to stay tight. Thought I might be able to get away from it with a serpentine everyone says how great they are. So either keep up my old ways or get a tensioner. Thanks Dave and everyone else. Even you scd good buddy I mean pot err ughh are you kettle?

[Racer96m]

Im embarrassed for you that someone had to tell you how to put your belts on, if common sense were common everyone would have it. No wonder you've only got so few accomplishments to list in your signature.


And this coming from the guy that couldn't get his tight, thats funny Jeff, you do have a sense of humor. And thanks for being a fan and following our accomplishments, message me your address and size and I'll get a shirt out to you. Dont forget to give us a like us on FB!

Dave

[Racer96m]

I doubt there are many guys running rear mount ps pumps on street stocks, so I would bet they can just tension their belts with their ps pump...

For the person the left the reputation comment: I guess I didnt make it clear. I only have a serpentine belt from the crank to the water pump. I dont run a rear mount PS pump, it's front mount, driven by a V belt off a crank mandrel mounted pulley. The PS belt wont slip because there isnt a big 4 blade fan causing all the drag hooked to it. With no tensioner from the crank to the water pump, you can imagine how hard it is to get on, because its banjo string tight.

Dave

[save the racers]

Some stewart water pumps will have sloted mounting holes with a set screw on top.So you can tighten the belts after the water pump is mounted.I have sloted the holes and added set screw on other pumps to get alittle adjustment.