Bearing Spacers?

[Kromulous]

How many of you all run bearing spacers in your wide 5 type hubs?

Any need for them?

Thanks, Krom.

[TheJet-09]

I do but only because they were on the car when I bought it. Logically, I'm a fan of anything that is working towards reducing drag, so I guess I'd be on the side of being in favor of them. Then again, the "load" or resistance you feel while turning the wheel when the car is supported on jack stands is not what it's seeing while on the ground, under load, going in circles. But now these ultra uber low-drag seals...hmm, I'm not sure I buy that one.

[RCJ]

That is the same opinion I have. They were on a car when it was bought and they worked good But if you take the brake caliper off the plain old bearings and seals it will spin very freely.

[billetbirdcage]

I do but only because they were on the car when I bought it. Logically, I'm a fan of anything that is working towards reducing drag, so I guess I'd be on the side of being in favor of them. Then again, the "load" or resistance you feel while turning the wheel when the car is supported on jack stands is not what it's seeing while on the ground, under load, going in circles. But now these ultra uber low-drag seals...hmm, I'm not sure I buy that one.

I actually got hooked up with a guy/company, that has actually tested what actually creates additional drag in a wheel assemblies with loads including steering/sideways loads. The data is actually pretty interesting, some things I thought would make a difference didn't and others I thought would have little effect on drag did.

Bearing quality and type is near the top and depending on the seals you talking about it's way higher on the list then I would have thought. Now granted does it really make that much difference, that's arguable but seals are actually towards the top as far as all the other things that have an effect on it.

also there is diminishing returns on the seals, meaning eventually you're not getting hardly any gain at all and likely just letting water/etc an easy path into the wheel bearing assembly and causing you maintenance issues. There is always going to be the is it worth the cost per amount of friction/speed gained, that is the big question you will need to decide for yourself. As with anything, there is snake oil stuff out there and stuff that is actually useful.

[billetbirdcage]

If I wasn't clear, I'm not saying these things are or aren't worth that much. Just that, the cause of some of the friction is not always what you would think it would be or which ones are the bigger items.

[RCJ]

I'm using timken -micro blue bearing, lucas red grease,regular seals.I pack the bearing every 12 races and never reuse the seals on the rear axle.

[FlatTire]

Ive found that running 20psi air in the tires decreased rolling resistance the most!

[TheJet-09]

^^^ Ha ha!!! You laugh, but my first race car was a '75 Monte Carlo. I knew absolutely nothing about cars so I filled all four tires up to 32 psi and away I went. When I found out tires came in different sizes, man, I was blown away!!!

[Krooser]

OK... so what method do you guys adjust your wheel bearings?

[TheJet-09]

I first "seat" them using a ratchet, with just enough force to realistically say they wouldn't tighten any more. I then back the nut off and tighten it again using only the socket in my hand. I back that off and tighten again with just the socket in my hand, probably about three times total, each time with just slightly less force (to where the socket is actually just being held by my fingers, like a claw grip). Then I put the lock ring on.

[Krooser]

Thanks.... sounds about right.

[Matt49]

I first "seat" them using a ratchet, with just enough force to realistically say they wouldn't tighten any more. I then back the nut off and tighten it again using only the socket in my hand. I back that off and tighten again with just the socket in my hand, probably about three times total, each time with just slightly less force (to where the socket is actually just being held by my fingers, like a claw grip). Then I put the lock ring on.

This is basically what I do except I also continually spin the hub while I'm doing the final fitment. I also check for end play to make sure there is none. If we've just repacked the bearings, I usually recheck all of the hubs for end play after the first time out with them once the grease has really gotten worked in. I've found a little end play occasionally when rechecking after a run.

[mod88s]

There are several different ways to do it but straight from the manufacturer says to put everything together dry, torque to 30lbs, check for end play. Then when you get it where you want it, grease the bearings, torque to 30lbs and check for end play again to make sure it didnt change when grease was added

[billetbirdcage]

Keep in mind an aluminum snout will grow (IE lengthen) more then a steel snout when hot and loosen wheel bearing end-play.