Valence Height?

[Kromulous]

How high do you guys trim up the valence on the MD3 noses?

Thanks, Krom.

[7uptruckracer]

12" Is Ballpark. Take off RF spring, let car down, Jack up LR too full droop, Simulate Lf and RR Travel. Account for tire Scrunch/Deflection and go from there. 3-5 on LF valance. I do my side Skirts this way as well. I'm about 3"LF 12.5 RF

[RacerX10]

12" Is Ballpark.

I'm about 3"LF 12.5 RF

What are those measurements ?

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

What are those measurements ?

He is talking from ground up. I was going to post 3" lf and 13" rf

[Kromulous]

Dam, not sure i can get it that high LOL.

Maybe 10 gotta figure out how to raise it more i guess...

Side skirts i just put on last night, 5.5" on the LF and 9.5" on the Right side. Sounds like i am low on the rightsides as well.

[RacerX10]

He is talking from ground up. I was going to post 3" lf and 13" rf

Ah ok .. thanks.

By the way, this stuff REALLY messes with my OCD. I can't stand how these cars look now.

[Matt49]

Once you get something that you know works (on the track) for your car. Measure all of this stuff with the car on your normal shop jack stands and write that crap down somewhere. It will save you time and effort on future body hangings.

[Punisher88]

I had a bwrc and the bottom of the nose rack had tabs for a plate to extend out to hold the nose up and the bottom of that plate was like 12 inches so with the one inch lip on the nose it was about 11 inches on the right and 3 or so on the left. My cvr I have now is also about 11 on the right and 4 on the left.

[Punisher88]

And on another note if any of you need some plate material to hold the outer extending lip on the front of the nose roush sells used splitters off of nascar cars that are around 1/2 inch thick and carbon fiber for 75 bucks for both side, which is unbeatable, and tough as hell.

[Kromulous]

Yeah, this is the 1st time i put a body on this Revelution chassis, Frank has tabs on the bumper, and we have the flat pieces. There extending straight out, both sides.

I got about 11" on the right-side to the nose material, no valence.

Nose sits on the fenders nice, and is level along the bottom, which i like, but worried its to low. Think i may use an old skid plate and make some spacers and use a heat gun to sort of curl that corner up a little.

Matt49, how did you ever come out on that spreadsheet for the stack?

[Punisher88]

Those cars are newer cars. It's doubtful it needs to be any higher. Ask if he runs a bump on the right front. That will generally keep it from digging in the ground. I run a standard 350# on the rf but still ran a bump to limit the nose from dragging

[#71]

No bump stop on my Revelution and rarely ever get the nose in the dirt and we sometimes run on some real rough hooked up corn fields over here. I'd have to wait till I got off work to measure the height of the nose, but I'm thinking mine is 12" Frank's bumpers are great for mounting noses with the tags he has welded on it. Very neat.

[a25rjr]

Anyone ever try to bolt a piece of flexible rubber to the valance to seal it off even more?

Tractor supply sells 1/2"x4x6 for $40.

[zeroracing]

Yes, the key is two things.

1. Not adding too much weight because some rubber strips can have decent weight.
2. I had to leave like a 12" section near the middle open to get some air for the radiator.

The way I did it was made pieces about 8" wide then put them on where each one shared one body bolt with the next. Used a 1/4" bolt with flat washer to stop from pulling out.

Worked ok, might revisit it again in the future with a lighter rubber, it just added up to too much I felt.

[a25rjr]

Yes, the key is two things.

1. Not adding too much weight because some rubber strips can have decent weight.
2. I had to leave like a 12" section near the middle open to get some air for the radiator.

The way I did it was made pieces about 8" wide then put them on where each one shared one body bolt with the next. Used a 1/4" bolt with flat washer to stop from pulling out.

Worked ok, might revisit it again in the future with a lighter rubber, it just added up to too much I felt.

Yeah, that sheet from Tractor Supply is very heavy. When the worker asked me to help him load it, I couldn't figure out why. Now I know...LOL But it is heavy duty and should hold up well!

[Punisher88]

Cove base would work well for what your thinking I believe. We used to use it on our kart noses to lower them a bit. Plus it has a nice contour at the bottom that lips out.

[riddle28]

ive got a question about valences. i dont run one now because i have an open trailer and its already hard enough to load as it is. i thought about getting one and taking it on and off at the track once its off the trailer. i race at a little 1/4 mile bullring, is there enough advantage there to mess with it?

[lindsey97]

I have the same trouble getting mine in an enclosed with the valence. I jacked up the left front measured the distance between the shock bolts and made me a piece of 2 in x 1/4 in flat stock drilled 5/8 hole at that measurement. I used longer bolts and jack the car up and slide the flat on to hold the nose up level to load.

[riddle28]

i like that idea i may build something to go in between the frame and lower a frame to keep it raised enough. kinda like a fork saver for a dirt bike

[a25rjr]

We bought a used Rocket roller a couple years ago. The owner had taken 1" tubing, flattened the ends in a press, and drilled 1/2" holes in it, and bolted them in place of the shocks. The lengths were for ride height but you could make them any length you want! I eventually took it a step further and made the lenghths correspond to the cars attitude on the track.

[TheJet-09]

I was thinking about the different ideas for creating height when trailering your car. I, personally, would be hesitant to do anything that rendered the suspension "solid" while towing the car, most certainly between the frame and lower control arm. I know we strap them down pretty good anyway, but my concern is that we put far more miles on our car towing them to the track than we ever will on the track. Obviously clearance on the RF shouldn't be an issue. I've seen guys take old rear main bearings, jack up the LF, then put the bearing around the LF shock between the spring and adjuster nut. You can wire tie it in place to keep it there. That'd buy you an extra 2" or so.

[billetbirdcage]

I was thinking about the different ideas for creating height when trailering your car. I, personally, would be hesitant to do anything that rendered the suspension "solid" while towing the car, most certainly between the frame and lower control arm. I know we strap them down pretty good anyway, but my concern is that we put far more miles on our car towing them to the track than we ever will on the track. Obviously clearance on the RF shouldn't be an issue. I've seen guys take old rear main bearings, jack up the LF, then put the bearing around the LF shock between the spring and adjuster nut. You can wire tie it in place to keep it there. That'd buy you an extra 2" or so.

Easiest thing to do is have a set of bars or cheap old junk shocks/coil-overs to put on the car for hauling, it amazes me guys like to wear out or just put more time on their high dollar shocks going down the road. I mean what wears them out more 1 to 6 hours of bouncing while going down the road or the 50 to 75 laps you put on the car a night. Things to think about.

That way you can just raise or alter which ever ride hieght on whatever corner with the set of bars or old coil-overs so it makes loading easier. I know some guys add rounds to a corner or corners, but I hate this cause next thing you know someone forgot to put it back some night cause they was in a hurry or thought the other guy did it, lol. I prefer to keep it simple and save the wear on the shocks by just switching them out.

[Krooser]

Back in the leaf spring days lots of guys either blocked up the frame with the weight off of the springs while towing or had a swing down "jack" that kept the springs from working while towing. They secured the chassis to the trailer.

[RCJ]

I had a piece cut to fit between the lower a arm and the frame.Over time it did bend the lower a arm.Now I remove it after the car is loaded.

[RacerX10]

Odd .. am I the only person that tows with the car strapped down over the chassis ? I go over the cross member up front and back down the the D ring in the floor, and over the rear clip in the back and down to the D ring in the floor. Doesn't allow for much shock movement when traveling, but there probably is a wee bit just in the give/take in the tie down strap.

[billetbirdcage]

Odd .. am I the only person that tows with the car strapped down over the chassis ? I go over the cross member up front and back down the the D ring in the floor, and over the rear clip in the back and down to the D ring in the floor. Doesn't allow for much shock movement when traveling, but there probably is a wee bit just in the give/take in the tie down strap.


That's the most typical way and nothing wrong with it, I'm just saying the car still moves up and down working the shock and causing normal wear. Don't think it bounces much? How often does the car move side to side or shift in the trailer a little?

That's the reason in a perfect world, I'd use some junk coil overs to haul the car around. Sure it's more work to swap the coil-overs around to and from the track, but least your not adding wear on you shocks going down the road.

You could always argue, how much is this really wearing the shock? I can't answer that truthfully, may be so small it don't matter or maybe you send shocks off so often it won't matter either, just something to think about as many guys have some old twin tube or semi junk stuff around to just set up some with some old unused springs.