Holding 100lb on front brakes

[17m fan]

Over the winter I put new seals in the calipers and added a bias gauge. And my fronts are holding 100lbs constant and zero rear with no pedal pressure. Bled the system manually and confident of no air. Balance bar even side to side and front to back. Even went as far as remove the pushrod and it's still at 100. Pressure on front is exactly 100 over rear no matter how hard you mash the pedal. Any suggestions?

[Kwoods25]

RF shutoff?

[17m fan]

Makes no difference if RF is off or on

[Kwoods25]

If you take line off back of gauge does it drop to 0

[rakracing]

I chased a issue with handling for two months because of a bad front master cylinder holding pressure as the race went on rear tires would just spin no drive in car caused by pushing half locked brakes

[17m fan]

I want to say that yes the gauge goes zero when unplugged but I will check again to be sure. What do I look for one way or the other.

[Kwoods25]

Could be a collapsed line, or a sticking caliper if you ask me

[AmickRacing]

What kind of gauge is it?
Somewhat apples or oranges, but I had some fuel pressure issues, that turned out to be the gauge. If you pulled up on the line a bit, I could get up to 8 psi, push down, and it'd go to zero. It was frustrating, but after taking the friggen regulator off half a dozen times, and checking all the lines, tank, etc, it was nice to know it was an easy problem

[17m fan]

Quickcar gauges

[Matt49]

Can you spin the front wheels at all with the car on jack stands? If you can, that's a bad gauge. If it isn't a bad gauge, I would be VERY careful removing the brake line anywhere that you truly believe there is that much pressure in it.

[17m fan]

Both fronts spin however not so freely as without a caliper..the right front has more drag than the left but has surface rust on the rotor so I would assume that is part of the not so free spin problem.

[Lizardracing]

100psi of brake fluid pressure would make the wheel very difficult to turn if not near impossible without a great deal of effort.

Figure this out will be simple.
Get in the car and push the brake peddle as hard as you can a few times. Get about 300/400 psi on the gauges.
Get out of the car and see if the tires turn. If they do, then you have a gauge problem. If they don't, loosen the bleeder screw at the caliper on the offending wheel. If the wheel/tire now turns free, you have a brake line, caliper or master cylinder problem.

[Kromulous]

Make sure the caliper is centered on the rotors.

I found this to be a problem on alot of spindles, you usually need spacers. These calipers are 4 pistons, so both sides need room to float.

Krom.

[Bubstr]

I had a problem similar way back. A new master cylinder wouldn't bleed back. The holes was in a wrong spot on a brand new one. A wrong length rod can do something similar. The piston has to come to a neutral position to bleed off pressure.

[JDracing57]

I had this problem with my rear brakes once and it was because the balance bar in the brake pedal was bent.

[Matt49]

If there was really 100 psi on the caliper, you would not be able to turn the wheel at all unless you can bench about 300 pounds. So I think you have a bad gauge (not uncommon, those gauges are cheap).
What you are describing sounds like normal brake drag. That goes away on the track.
I will also agree with Krom...you need to have the calipers as close to center as possible. Some strange things happen when pistons on one side start to come out further than pistons on the other. They usually make the spindles so that you'll need washers to space them further inboard. If they tried to do it perfect and messed it up in the slightest, there would be no way of spacing it outboard short of bending the bracket.

[17m fan]

After reading the replies, I'm leaning toward bad gauge as well... I've got pads the pads centered with necessary shims spacing the caliper. I know the pedals are centered front to back & side to side because the pressure is dead on the same except the front is 100lb higher. And i still get 100 with the front push rod unhooked. gonna do just a little more investigation and most likely order a new gauge.

[Matt49]

After reading the replies, I'm leaning toward bad gauge as well... I've got pads the pads centered with necessary shims spacing the caliper. I know the pedals are centered front to back & side to side because the pressure is dead on the same except the front is 100lb higher. And i still get 100 with the front push rod unhooked. gonna do just a little more investigation and most likely order a new gauge.

Just swap the front and rear gauges. Then you'll know for sure.

[17m fan]

Just swap the front and rear gauges. Then you'll know for sure.
That be the plan

[HEAVY DUTY]

Can you wiggle the balance bar? Make sure it isn't touching the firewall or a bar when pedal is at rest.

[17m fan]

I'm 100% confident the pedals are right

[slmcrewchief99]

I think you have a bad gauge as well. And like was posted earlier, I would swap them just to see. No since wasting money if by chance that is not what it is. We have had a problem like that before too.
Now on a lighter side, we may have to update our cars cause our 15's don't have brake gauges. Last time we had brake gauges was about 05 and that azz backwards rayburn. lol

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

I think you have a bad gauge as well. And like was posted earlier, I would swap them just to see. No since wasting money if by chance that is not what it is. We have had a problem like that before too.
Now on a lighter side, we may have to update our cars cause our 15's don't have brake gauges. Last time we had brake gauges was about 05 and that azz backwards rayburn. lol

I have seen brake gauges quickly solve a handling problem when others have been lost in the forest for weeks without one. But, I only use very high quality pieces.

[7uptruckracer]

Who's gauges do you recommend?

[17m fan]

Follow up to this thread.... Although brand new, it was a bad gauge.