Bump Steer Gauge

[zeroracing]

I am looking at buying a bump steer gauge, I know I could build one, but just don't have the free time to build a good one. I know lots of people liked the older long acre that fold up, but they no longer make that one and make a new version I have heard is not nearly as good. I looked at the Joes one it looks simple and clean.

Bottom line, which ones do you guys have and do you like it, or seen one that is better? I do want a digital single indicator if possible.

[PushinTheLimit]

I just bought the one that Joe's makes. I don't have any experience with any other bumpsteer gauge out there... but I was a newbie doing bumpsteer and it's simple enough for me to figure out and use. It's a good quality piece.

[hammond motorsports]

I do not use a bump steer gauge because they move the lower a arm but its the chassis that moves on the track. Just set car on ground at ride heights with the springs and shocks removed then move the chassis up or down with floor jacks to check the bump. This would be like using a pull down rig.

[zeroracing]

Pushin thank you for the feedback, it looks clean and simple.

Hammond, so your checking toe as the car drops, good idea that is fairly simple. The pull down rig probably makes accurately measuring it even easier, along with a number of other things.

[hammond motorsports]

yes . If you think about this the ball joint does not move up or down its the chassis that moves up or down . I found that changes the read out . I sure someone will say the ball joint does go up and down on the track ,it will if your racing in a cornfield lol.

[Matt49]

The movement of the ball joint and the movement of the chassis are relative...to one another. It doesn't change the net result in dynamic toe.
I love looking at bump steer numbers but we really fool ourselves when we measure this with the wheels pointing straight forward. We aren't racing pavement cars and many times we are already "steered" right when entering the corner (then compressing the RF under breaking). Give that some thought...and then give it some measurements using whatever method you choose to use for bump steer. You'll see some interesting stuff.
With the tires we run on late models, I question whether our contact patch compliance puts us in the need to discuss bump steer tolerances down to thousands of an inch as they do on asphalt cars...where they have VERY stiff sidewalls and very little range of steer under normal conditions.
Food for thought and definitely something I've been thinking about recently.

[TALON75]

2nd, for the Joe's gauge(digital), easiest and nicest one I have used.

[RCJ]

Check how they mount to the hub.Some bolt to the center cap,if you have snap cap hubs you will have to modify it.If they bolt to the wheel flange make sure they have the mounting hardware.A 6'' scale on the wheel plate is nice.

[Lizardracing]

[/QUOTE]With the tires we run on late models, I question whether our contact patch compliance puts us in the need to discuss bump steer tolerances down to thousands of an inch as they do on asphalt cars...where they have VERY stiff sidewalls and very little range of steer under normal conditions.
Food for thought and definitely something I've been thinking about recently.[/QUOTE]

Is this the difference between the guys that win yet seem to know nothing about the car and those that calculate everything to win?
I fall in the latter but I still know guys using a socket under the rear axle and a 2x4 and winning. I firmly believe not everything can be calculated to such precision and still be useful. Geez, the tubing, mounts, and heim deflections have an effect likely more than a few thousandths under load not measurable in the shop or a pull down test.