2014 Gen-X slick set up

[Cranky]

I have a 2014 Gen-X that I cannot get hooked up on a smooth slick track. Does anyone have a base slick set up that I can compare to? Car just seems to not have side bite or forward drive. Any help is appreciated.

[SaddleUpLock&Load]

I have a 2014 Gen-X that I cannot get hooked up on a smooth slick track. Does anyone have a base slick set up that I can compare to? Car just seems to not have side bite or forward drive. Any help is appreciated.

450-300 1in stagg
175-225 4 1/2 stag
300 5th
remove dummy shock
increase drop to 13 1/4

j-bar 8 3/4 frame then down on pinion 1/2 inch
Top right rod down two holes from neutral

[Cranky]

Wow....remove the dummy shock??!! I do have that on now and only have about 11 3/4" to 12" drop. I also have a 500lb on the LF, I also run a 16" LR 175 but all other springs the same.

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

Wow....remove the dummy shock??!! I do have that on now and only have about 11 3/4" to 12" drop. I also have a 500lb on the LF, I also run a 16" LR 175 but all other springs the same.

Your biggest issue is drop.

[SaddleUpLock&Load]

Wow....remove the dummy shock??!! I do have that on now and only have about 11 3/4" to 12" drop. I also have a 500lb on the LF, I also run a 16" LR 175 but all other springs the same.


Really only run the dummy when there's loads of traction and need to be bent up on the gas a lot. Really killed our forward drive in the slick.

[mod88s]

You talking about the LR shock in front?

[Kromulous]

Yes mod88s.

I have noticed a trend lately with that, run super high compression in the rear shock and then remove the "traction" shock. Genesis offers one with like 16 compression i think it is, have not ran it like this yet thou.

I agree with MB racer too, more droop.

[cjsracing]

13.5" minimum really? I was always told 13"

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

13.5" minimum really? I was always told 13"

That is the standard answer. What you can really use depends on many factors.

[Matt49]

I'll second some previous comments.
I wouldn't line up with less than 13" drop in the LR.
Outside of that, removing the "traction" shock from in front of the LR is the best traction you're going to find. It does require you to enter the corner a little different though as the car could have a tendency to sit down on you even if you do get some super high compression in your shock behind. Like most things, it's a trade off.

[cjsracing]

Matt49

If the LRF shock was on a clamp bracket instead of the birdcage then you wouldn't be losing traction from the LRF shock correct? So you could still have it helping hold the car on entry but not robbing traction?

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

Matt49

If the LRF shock was on a clamp bracket instead of the birdcage then you wouldn't be losing traction from the LRF shock correct? So you could still have it helping hold the car on entry but not robbing traction?

Still a compromise. As soon as your pinion starts wrapping down from decel, that shock is pulling the car down.

[rakracing]

anyone ever tried running the dummy shock on a clamp behind the rear as a dual shock to hold the car up but not take away traction,

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

anyone ever tried running the dummy shock on a clamp behind the rear as a dual shock to hold the car up but not take away traction,

It will take some traction away. Maybe, you could keep it from being g too bad.

Not legal these days, however...

[MBR Performance]

On a Gen X with 13 1/2" of drop how much is that from ride height?

[Matt49]

I'd say 5 1/2" - 6 1/2" depending on your scaling. Ultimately that doesn't matter. Your limiting dynamic wedge and roll steer with the chain. This is an adjustment that is way more critical than most people consider in my opinion. 1/4" at the chain could be 1/2" of wheel movement and you do the math on bar angles, birdcage indexing, roll steer, etc. It makes a pretty big difference.

[Cranky]

Well, I tried the advice given concerning the car this weekend and it didnt help. Car was awful. Removed LRF shock, set drop at about 13 3/4" 300RF, 500LF, 225RR, 175LR. 54.5% LS, 54.4% REAR, 1 1/8" Front stagger, 4 1/2" Rear stagger, 1/2" toe out. Ughhhhh.....about to sawzall this bitch in half!!

[Kromulous]

What track Cranky?

4.5" of stagger may be a problem.

Shocks?

5th coil?

[billetbirdcage]

Well, I tried the advice given concerning the car this weekend and it didnt help. Car was awful. Removed LRF shock, set drop at about 13 3/4" 300RF, 500LF, 225RR, 175LR. 54.5% LS, 54.4% REAR, 1 1/8" Front stagger, 4 1/2" Rear stagger, 1/2" toe out. Ughhhhh.....about to sawzall this bitch in half!!

I'm gonna take a stab in the dark here since I'm really not sure what all you changed besides the drop and what the rest of the set-up is like on bar angles, j-bar, tires and etc.

I'm gonna say the car was way looser on exit then it has ever been before and the car either seemed to just want to spin the wheels or the ass end wants to go up the track towards the outside wall (if you're making sure your not spinning the rear tires).

[MBR Performance]

That left side percentage is way to high....

[mod88s]

What would be a good left side % for dry with the Gen x dry slick?

[MBR Performance]

Doesn't matter if it's dry slick or racey it should be around 53.7. To much left side will make the car free

[mod88s]

with or without driver?

[MBR Performance]

Always scale with the driver

[AndyB]

Just curious, What is your chassis number? We have a 2014 Gen-X with many of the same issues you speak of. This is our 3rd Gen-X behind 2 others that we were really satisfied with and I know newer cars have came along and stepped up the game, but this one will not react anywhere near what the other two did. We have a new car of another brand on the way but just curious as to how close in production yours was to ours.