Flipping right rear bottom leaf?

[chevy370lsx]

Trying to find ways to get my crossweight higher with out going to a lot heavier RF spring and ridiculous stagger like I have now.
Im kinda tossing the idea around on the right rear leaf, taking the shorter bottom leaf that goes forward and flipping that around. That should make the spring a lighter rate, how would that effect spring wrap?

[stock car driver]

U can put wedges in between the ends of the leafs or arch leafs more with a hammer. Id be working on the lr to add bite.

U can also cut the ends of leafs off making them shorter, you would want to do this on the back halfs of the leafs not the front. If you were going to cut you would be cutting on the rr leafs.

[RCJ]

I don't think I would go that direction either.You can run more front stagger or low l/f ride height,lowering block in r/r.

[Wrenchead84]

hopefully one of you guys catch this question. i know its bad to dig up an old post but, .. we normally run a 1" block on both the left and right rear. so what youre saying is taking the l/r lowering block out would add cross, or using a shorter LF spring. thanks

[RCJ]

Taking a lowering block out of the l/r raises that corner ,adding cross.A shorter l/f spring lowers that corner,adding cross.With the things we are doing with the l/m, lowering the l/f has some advantages besides just cross.On the lowering blocks I would put a 2'' in the r/r.

[Wrenchead84]

and leave the 1" in the left rear or take it out and put a 2" in rr?thanks

[RCJ]

1'' l/r ,2'' r/r.The best thing is to get your car under weight, then add lead to get the l/r weight you want.

[Wrenchead84]

LOL we added over 500 lbs of lead to the car after the build. no joke

[RCJ]

The best cars I had , had 500lbs stacked between the driver and rearend.

[Wrenchead84]

yep there's about 200 250 ish behind my seat and the rest in the rear section, mostly left. then the one piece high on the right rear down bar

[Wrenchead84]

in thinking about the 2" block in the RR, we already slam the right side axle housing into the frame with a 1" block as it is. the 2" block we make that happen even sooner, bottoming out the rr - isn't that always bad? we have tried to step up the spring rate to 200 but it still does the same thing - and loosened the car up on exit. so im thinking 1" block in the RR and no block in LR ,and a 1" spacer on top of the RF spring would give me the right ride height difference since we cant run weight jacks

[RCJ]

What is the l/r and r/r spring rate?

[Wrenchead84]

Lf - 900 rf - 1000 lr - 200 rr - 175

[RCJ]

1100L/F 1200R/F ,225L/R 200R/R was my base line, 1' block in both sides,200lbs of bite,25 lbs on the left down bar,500 behind driver.The l/f ride height ,front stagger and low air pressure in the l/f was the best places to adjust bite.

[Wrenchead84]

That has been tried too. Don't know if it's our track or what, but the 1100-1200 combo gives you a car that will not turn. Everyone runs the 900-1000 in front. Any higher and they don't turn. Most leaf cars run the 225-200 for the rear but we softened the back up to a 200-175 about mid season with great results