Brake bias

[Rayburnt]

Anyone have approximate front to rear brake pressure reading when cranked to all rear? We're getting like 700front 175rear with all front, and 350 front 450rear with all rear. Wondering if that's the ball bark

[Matt49]

Anyone have approximate front to rear brake pressure reading when cranked to all rear? We're getting like 700front 175rear with all front, and 350 front 450rear with all rear. Wondering if that's the ball bark

That's way off.
Are your master cylinders the same piston size?
Also, brake bias gauges are notorious for being inaccurate. Make sure everything is bled properly also. Pump up and observe how much (if any) pressure differences change as you pump up. This helps find the soft spots but doesn't fix bad gauges.
In the end, it could just be a poorly setup bias bar.

[7uptruckracer]

What's the proper way to set up a balance bar and the ride running to it from the cylinders? It's always something I've struggled with

[Matt49]

What's the proper way to set up a balance bar and the ride running to it from the cylinders? It's always something I've struggled with

It is a pain in the arse. To the point that on our last two cars I've just bought the pre-assembled pedal assembly. Something like Willwood part number 340-11299. They are pretty much good to go out of the box.
But if you need measurements on getting it right, check out this link and scroll down some:
http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechPedalTip.aspx
The trick is figuring out how many threads you need sticking out of one piece before you thread into the next.
As far as the cable goes, we used to have an issue with the very end of the cable piece (the hex part) hitting the right front bolt that holds the assembly to the chassis. So we used to use a cable tie to sort of suspend the cable to the frame rail above it. But now, I make my own countersunk washer and use a flat headed allen bolt to lower the profile of it and it stays out of the way.

[7uptruckracer]

I hate doing those measurements that why I asked lol


It is a pain in the arse. To the point that on our last two cars I've just bought the pre-assembled pedal assembly. Something like Willwood part number 340-11299. They are pretty much good to go out of the box.
But if you need measurements on getting it right, check out this link and scroll down some:
http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechPedalTip.aspx
The trick is figuring out how many threads you need sticking out of one piece before you thread into the next.
As far as the cable goes, we used to have an issue with the very end of the cable piece (the hex part) hitting the right front bolt that holds the assembly to the chassis. So we used to use a cable tie to sort of suspend the cable to the frame rail above it. But now, I make my own countersunk washer and use a flat headed allen bolt to lower the profile of it and it stays out of the way.

[Rayburnt]

They're both 1" masters. Only ran the car once and didn't investigate it yet. They were rebco gauges that screw into the calipers. The gauges have only been used a couple time, so I'm assuming there good. Brakes were blead and ready to go.

[Matt49]

They're both 1" masters. Only ran the car once and didn't investigate it yet. They were rebco gauges that screw into the calipers. The gauges have only been used a couple time, so I'm assuming there good. Brakes were blead and ready to go.

Quick way to check the gauges would be to swap them and see if the "problem" follows the gauge.
Also check to see how much piston is exposed between the pad and the caliper. I never used to consider this but we were having trouble with losing rear pressure a couple years ago and a racer friend noticed we had more than 1/4" of piston showing in the rear but hardly anything up front. He suggested putting new pads in the front. It didn't make sense to me but we tried and sure enough we got our rear pressure back. Something to consider.
...and if anyone can explain the physics behind why this works, I'm all ears.