dry sump primer

[n4cgrt]

Whats your input on running a dry sump primer? Is it worth the money? Any issues caused by using one?

[billetbirdcage]

Whats your input on running a dry sump primer? Is it worth the money? Any issues caused by using one?

I always bought a KSE hex drive on the back of all my pumps, then just used an air ratchet and a Allen socket.

If you're talking one the pulleys with a handle on them used in a drill, then they are very handy and useful, never bought one but unless outrageous, I'd have one.

[zeroracing]

Billet, what all is needed to connect like a stock car products pump?

[billetbirdcage]

Billet, what all is needed to connect like a stock car products pump?

Not 100% what your asking, but if the priming tool I talked about for a drill (nothing came up in a quick search so I made a crappy drawing)

https://i.imgur.com/R42AY7p.png


You just take the belt off the pump and hold off to the side and use another old belt and hold drill/pulley assembly over the pump and spin.

If you have the hex drive in the back of the pump remove P/S or KSE and remove belt off pump and use an air ratchet to spin the pump.

Peterson makes an primer and one that is made into the oil filter mount that looks easy as hell, if you want to get something much easier then the 2 ways I listed. Google dry sump primer tool, then go to images.

[billetbirdcage]

I should add I generally only prime a dry sump is if it's new and lines are empty, not every week. Basically only when installing a new engine to fill the lines, cooler, and etc. Week to week just spinning with starter till you see movement on gauge is good enough for me.

[TheJet-09]

I've done the same as what Billet described (off the back of the pump). But do be aware, the hex fitting can loosen from the pumps main shaft (at least on my SCP pump it can). I found out the hard way as it loosened up and oil started running out the back.

I also just prime that way when the system is first put together, then rely on cranking without ignition to get some PSI before I start it.

[shawburn]

Should you prime when you do oil and filter change? Or do you crank engine to get pressure? Thanks.

[TheJet-09]

I just crank to get pressure after changing the oil, but often have the plugs out so it doesn't overburden the starter/battery. I also crank for about 5-10 seconds, then let it sit for a minute or two so the starter cools off some. Usually it only takes 3-4 cycles of that to get pressure.

[cjsracing]

Should you prime when you do oil and filter change? Or do you crank engine to get pressure? Thanks.

I prime every time I do an oil change.

The way I prime it is:
1) slide the belt off the back of the pulley
2) put a used belt (I call it my priming belt) on the pulley
3) sit between the pass door and frame with a drill
4) With the priming belt on the pulley also put the belt around the nose of the dril
5) Pull the belt tight and run it is reverse until my wife (who is watching the oil pressure gauge) yells that I have oil pressure.
6) Take priming belt off and slide the real belt back on the pulley
7) adjust pump so belt is tight and tighten the pump

[King1]

Ive got a used peterson primer ill sell. Dont need it because i couldnt position it well on my bloomquist car

[King1]

Get a used pulley, stick a bolt in it, chuck it up in a drill, pull er tight, let er rip tater chip. I have primed by hand, takes a few minutes, but it can be done.

[Jking24]

We use a cam pulley and timing belt form a old honda civic set up as described by billit cheap and easy to find plus the belts longer so it gives you room to clear all the other stuff. The hex drive works well to

[powerslide]

These are pretty sweet if you have money to burn but I think as often as you would use it, it wouldn't be worth the money. All the other ways guys mentioned work just fine for a lot less

[cjsracing]

These are pretty sweet if you have money to burn but I think as often as you would use it, it wouldn't be worth the money. All the other ways guys mentioned work just fine for a lot less

Whoa, I didn't know about those. I'm going to have to get one, that will save a ton of time (when you're a one man show saving time matters).

[King1]

Whoa, I didn't know about those. I'm going to have to get one, that will save a ton of time (when you're a one man show saving time matters).

Again, i have one that has about 10 races on it. Couldnt use it on the bloomquist car because of the in-board header.

[grt74]

most engine wear is from initial start up (on the bearings for the most part, also lifters) , if you prime a dry sump system before you start it after a week, it will indeed help, we have torn down several engines, and the ones that use the primer have better looking bearings after 1200-1400 laps, we've even thought about just re-ringing one and giving it a try, but better judgement got the best of us, but i do think it could be tried with success, we just didn't want to take the chance

[Jking24]

defenetly gonna help and I think if you were truly concerned about priming the motor before every week that a accumulator set up would probably be the way to go

[TALON75]

http://www.colemanracing.com/Pre-Luber-Dry-Sump-P4121.aspx

This is what I always use for new systems and when changing oil and filter.

[Kromulous]

From what GRT74 has to say about priming, that Peterson device would be worth it.

[Mcklovin85..]

I have one on my car and won't run without it. Makes it easy after changing oil and the initial start up at the track. All around I think it helps on on the minor things that could lead to bigger things. Just remember If you get one do not use your little impact on it, use a drill. The impact will damage the internal components. I have a 7/16 depwell socktet,extension, swivel and the adapter to the drill all welded together so its readily available each time.