Qualifying

[dfhotlm33c]

Wayne county speedway, Orrville OH. I can finally drive the car when the track packs down..

We qualify/hot lap...track is quite often still practically mud...car literally won't do anything. step on gas, rear end wants to just buzz tires and fishtail practically.. can't get a handle on it at all..everyone else just blows past me (Usually three or four cars on track at at time)

driving tips for this? Just learn to be smoother on throttle and ease up to speed?

Drastic change to how car is set up early in night? It's a very vanilla old setup (500 LF, 450 RF, 200 LR, 250 RR, bars as stated in setup sheet, j-bar 1" down pinion, 1 hole down on frame, 4" stagger, 100 LR bite, 55 left, 54 rear)

Tires? 1300 rule...should I groove them more? Less?

ideas?

[noitall93w]

That setup is ancient. How old and what car is it?

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

That setup is ancient. How old and what car is it?

He has a wide Mastersbilt.

[Jking24]

Put the leaf springs back on it !

[noitall93w]

First thing I’d do is get rid of that LR spring. In the mud with a crate or even super I’ve never buzzed the tires. Something sounds odd

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

Back when I raced those cars, you couldn't hook up in the slime. Pretty sure he's suffering from lack of CG movement the newer cars have.

[dfhotlm33c]

So, more j-bar angle? Raise j- bar both ends? Move ballast higher? I’m assuming newer tires that are grooved properly might help? Lots of grooves and very few of no sipes?

[noitall93w]

Yeah slime and mud are different. I was thinking he meant when the track was hooked up. Not when it was greasy. That’s hard to hook up yes

[dfhotlm33c]

Yeah. Complete slime. Not even remotely hooked up. The water trucks have basically just pulled off and we are usually the first to qualify. And I’ve pulled pills such that I’m the first or second group on the track. Just looking for advice on how to drive that or work the tires or change setup so I can at least go somewhere haha.

[Jking24]

From my experience in this condition you need to be a combination of free and tight. Free from a wheel base standpoint aswell as drive distribution you need the car to want to rotate when off the fuel then you need the car to turn on fuel because the steering is useless so lengthen right side bars and raise them both. But you need help with weight transfer so j bar high on the frame and low on the pinion take compression out of right side shocks. Basically you can't use the steering wheel so the car has to turn on its own then once it turns it need to dig in or be so over rotated that your essentially using your forward wheel spin the keep you from backing out of the park. Some times it helps to think about the fundamentals of what's not happening in this condition. In this case you can't steer and even if you could the car doesent stick lol

[MasterSbilt_Racer]

From my experience in this condition you need to be a combination of free and tight. Free from a wheel base standpoint aswell as drive distribution you need the car to want to rotate when off the fuel then you need the car to turn on fuel because the steering is useless so lengthen right side bars and raise them both. But you need help with weight transfer so j bar high on the frame and low on the pinion take compression out of right side shocks. Basically you can't use the steering wheel so the car has to turn on its own then once it turns it need to dig in or be so over rotated that your essentially using your forward wheel spin the keep you from backing out of the park. Some times it helps to think about the fundamentals of what's not happening in this condition. In this case you can't steer and even if you could the car doesent stick lol

And newer cars have more drive and more steer.

[Jking24]

And newer cars have more drive and more steer.I definitely agree

[powerslide]

Gotta keep the wheels spinning don't let them hook up or you will dump truck push. I will leave the suggestions for changes to the guru's. Guys try jabbing at the gas and usually make it worse

[MachineMasters]

just some thoughts here..

more rear stagger and the 5th coil moved back may help.

soften up the compression on your right side shocks if you can.

add a couple psi to the RR tire.

if it's really greasy, taking a couple rounds out of the RF spring could help force the car into posture somewhat. It also de-wedges the car to help turn on throttle.

Raise Lower left 4-link bar up on the chassis a hole or two, to add additional rear steer.

not saying i would do all of these, but some changes to consider.

[CCHIEF]

I typically go to RR tire pressure increase and decrease 4 " load #, as these conditions typically don't last very long, and you need the car to turn in well, and return to basic settings quickly, possibly in staging. With an older car/type deal, who knows. WAY back when my wide combo car just sucked all around.

[Ltemodel]

OOH man, Wide Combo car. Best luck we ever had with those is to turn them into a point-and-shoot style Rayburn car. Move the RR frame rail in as far as possible so the right rear tire doesn't rub, big left side weight, big wedge. These are definitely not going to compete with the long radius cars of today. You will need to drive it and think about it differently.