wanting to know if I get my right rear load number to high can I lose side bite and/or scotch in turn can make me lose drive off the corner.
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wanting to know if I get my right rear load number to high can I lose side bite and/or scotch in turn can make me lose drive off the corner.
Can be two separate problems. To high and you shear the contact patch. If you underload it you won't have sidebite because there is no weight to plant the RR to get scotch. BUT at the same time if you overload it it can have entry side bite but OVERDRIVE the LR on exit. The question is. Is it trying to over rotate From to much RR drive and you can't go forward straight or are both rear tires suffering from traction. Two different problems
Are we talking about rr ride height load ?
Agree...side bite is the force keeping the car from passing itself getting to the center of the corner. Center of corner being defined as the slowest part of the corner.
I absolutely hate those diagrams that attempt to show you visually where corner entry, corner middle, and corner exit are. That is different depending on track configuration, track condition, and driving style. You're either decelerating and trying to turn or you are accelerating and trying to turn. When I tell my crew guys "entry" and "exit" they know that it means decel or accel and has nothing to do with where I am on the track.
with the latest setups using spring loads, what would be the max. RR travel to shoot for. I have been told RR loads should be approx. 300 to 1000 lbs. would that 1000 lbs. be at 3 inch. or should we set it at 2 1/2"?
7up , so do you shoot for 3" travel or 1300 lbs. I guess with a fixed, spring starting at 380, the result is not adjustable. I have been running a 250 starting at 350 lbs. and only getting 2 1/2" travel , so I am considering a 200/500 stack which I had used several years ago and put on the shelf. I would like to get more travel, say 3" and then set my max load at whatever , depending on lockout gap. Should I go for the 1000 like I was told or consider total load for track condition.
Our builder would like us at 3". As the track slows you'll pull rubbers for my stuff to maintain 3" The problem I'm having now is getting to 3" in hammer down so currently trying to work on that, Debating if its just the speed of the track or a car setting etc! When it comes down to it though give the car what it wants.
Yes it is a deceleration issue on entry on turn in because we r back on throttle before center of corner. It's on the right front but it seems like it doesn't rollover on the right rear and plant, scotch, grip or sidebite. Yes i'm talking a high load number at dynamic of 2 1/2" of travel. I'm like 7up what is to high of load number for dryslick conditions. thanks for all help.
Curious as well. We’ve recently struggled with this too. Heat races, the car is over on the right rear and plants and goes, no matter what the situation. Can run high, low, in or out of traffic with no issue. Feature time, it’s way more sensitive to entry. It WILL stick similar to the heat race but not consistently, and changing lines or momentum due to traffic absolutely kills entry. It won’t roll at all, and then it’s way harder to pickup the throttle again.
Gotta love slick track racing!
It's pretty much going to decrease regardless because the track slows up so speeds slow up. The issue is if say X amount of roll steer and thrust angle is fast for you. If you don't travel the same you not only are losing load but your bars aren't travelling the same. So if you travel 1" or whatever on a stiff spring then all the sudden the track slows and you travel 1/2 you have lost load as well as the roll steer and thrust angle are different. So you'll see these spring rubber setups pull rubbers because all though the spring is softer you won't lose as much load because you gain the travel back to 1" and keep the other variables constant. Talking with another forum member here they don't travel 3" to be fast they are a different amount but I think the goal is the same to maintain the same variables.
That's Insane I guess they would rather you get another shock valved identical with another spring setup on it in the smasher to change to or take the smasher to the track and change it or do all it of and know your turn differences for the spring change ahead of time
So whats trump? Thrust angles and bar angles or travel numbers?
Meaning, the track slicks off and your travel is decreasing from the 3 inches you want to maintain. You can either go lighter spring and have less load at 3 inches or go less travel with the heavier
I guess it would be travel, maintaining the travel numbers with spring changes.
Take compression out of the RR shock when it gets slick. Possibly take rounds out of both rights sides and add to both left sides to give the car some "pre-tilt".