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Looking for free spring lengths for stacked spring setups on lr and rf. Trying to get the most out of an old car, seems from reading this might be a big help. Black front rocket just updated front clip/ raised crossmember , raise rail, new blue/gray 4 link mounts. No underslung but does have prevision for lr bolt in.
It all depends on the rates and loads applied. Typically, an 8" and a 10" would be used on the lr. It used to be common to run a 6" and a 7" on the rf. As rates have gone down, the soft spring has gotten longer and the stiiffer one has gotten shorter. You just need to make sure you don't bind a spring. If a stop nut is used, you must also make sure you have threads on the shock body where it needs to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by Higgy9991
What spindles and front end are on it now with the raised cross member?
Still black front spindles, with one piece lowers. Primarily still black front geometry is where we are fixing to start plus little more camber on rf than originally prescribed in the 2015 rocket setup book. There isn’t any real good newer notes so gotta start somewhereQuote:
Originally Posted by Mopar DLM
I would stack the lr but just run a soft spring bump setup on the rf. Switching to two stack setups at the same time with no prior experience is a good way to get out to lunch quick imo
I was more ore less trying to get the materials on hand to be able to test with them, currently have stuff to run various soft rf bump combos, tornado and tall barrel lr stuff. Like to have the stuff in the shop ready to smash and put on the car so i can get the most out of track rental.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jking24
Their are alot of different rf combos and really no go to especially when it comes to the curve generally when you switch to a stack on the rf it's to manipulate ride height and you already have a load curve that works well for you. But the lr has a few fairly common setups that work pretty well on most stuff.
Any suggestions for a good middle ground to start?
Lr 175/175 or a 90/200, RF 150/450
Jkings rf suggestion will likely be used with a bump spring or something else to give a linear rate increase in the 3" to 4" range. It could also be done with something much stiffer in the bottom and later bump engagement. It's quite amazing how many ways you can hit every load number suggested with totally different components.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jking24
Awesome thank you guys. I will get some swifts on order, see if we can’t get out there and turn some laps mid July.Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
I still contend that for the average guy that theirs not much speed in the rf alone if your not trying to manipulate ride heights your better off staying with a more traditional setup and learning how to tune it and what you want first.
You might want to look into putting some grey spindels on it to match the updated raised cross member since rocket has never built a raised cross member and raised rail black front end
The update work wasn’t done by rocket. It’s all still on the same pick up points as black front rocket stuff. To run blue/grey I would need to change much more than just spindles. Dixie Metal works and racing did a bunch of work on this thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar DLM
How much shock travel (rf) can you get before something hits the ground?
I can get 4” before it’s getting into the ground. Looking to hit desired load at about 3 1/2 to 3/4 travel on the rfQuote:
Originally Posted by MasterSbilt_Racer
You need to have more travel available than your target load / dynamic ride height. this may require a short body shock, or mount manipulation. Mount the nose to allow for available travel. You will need shocks valved to complement that type of deal. Keep it simple, may benefit from a more 'old school" type deal to try also. Front end bump may need a good looking at if Rack placement has changed.
I look at it as the load when the chassis hits the ground better be a number you cant generate on the track under normal circumstances.Quote:
Originally Posted by CCHIEF
if using a stack on the lr what length of springs would be used
Typically it's a good idea for bottom spring to be 10", to not catch on the shock body. Can get away with shorter with a divider sleeve and constant compression on the spring stack, even at full shock extension. Top can then be 8" or so. Could be less. Depends what rate it is and what you want to do with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by cross flag